Cube Stereo Hybrid 2020, replacing Powertube cable

[Craig24]

I’ve smashed the bottom cover on my Cube Stereo Hybrid 2020, 140. Seems to be a common one for people to do. Unfortunately I’ve also nicked the cable that connects the battery to the motor, BCH281

PowerTube cable 310 mm (BCH281)

PowerTube cable 310 mm (BCH281)

scuffwheels.com

I’ve ordered a new cable, has anyone fitted one of these before? I’m hoping I don’t need to remove the motor but can’t tell where the smaller cable goes to? It disappears under the motor.

 

[Mikerb]

Normally all the electrical connections to the motor are under the non drive side motor cover so you will need to remove the non drive side crank and plastic motor cover. The longer cable looks to be the battery to motor main cable and the shorter one is presumably for the charging port.........either directly to it or connected to a tail on the charger port. Maybe wait until someone who has actually done the job but you could get on with exposing the electrical connections under the nearside cover and fitting the main battery plug meanwhile.

 

[emtbPhil]

I've got some good news and bad news.
I've replaced this same cable - when I bought my bike 2nd hand the clip was snapped and it bugged me so I swapped it for a new one.

The good news is - it's not that hard to do. My main tip is 100% do NOT use a bike stand - put some cloths down under the seat and padding under the bars so you don't scratch the controller and flip the bike upside down. It's a million times easier to get to the motor and it's really difficult to refit the motor when the bike is right side up....

Which leads me to the bad news - it's a motor out job. The wiring for the controller and power feed IIRC all route up and over the motor and are cable tied to keep it tidy.

That being said off the top of my head
- Bike upside down
- Remove the chain guide if yours has one
- Slacken the chain and take it off the chainring
- Remove the plastic motor cover (2 small bolts at front and one long one at back)
- Undo the motor bolts - 3 either side, they're a torx bit but I can't remember how big

You can then lift the motor out with the chainring and cranks/pedals still bolted on and route the wire.
Again IIRC you can just slacken the back two motor bolts and the motor tilts out of the frame enough to get all the wires in place which saves completely removing it.

 

[Craig24]

Thank you, that’s very helpful. I just had a go but can’t budge the motor bolts, they’re really tight. I’ll have another stab at it tomorrow.

 

[emtbPhil]

Yeah I used a torque wrench. Be careful not to over tighten them when going back in as it’s a carbon frame. And you’ll need some locktite to stop them rattling back out

 

[Craig24]

Did you use a normal Torx bit? I’ve got a T40 that fits but seems slightly loose, I’m wondering if it’s a special Torx?

 

[emtbPhil]

I just used a T40 from my halfords pro car tools
They're just a bit weirdly round compared to normal torx bolts I've undone before.

 

[Bummers]

They are torx plus bolts. Make sure you use the correct driver. It's a different fitting to torx hence it feeling loose.

 

[Craig24]

Thanks, I’ve just ordered one. Anyone know what type of locktite to put back on?

I don’t have a torq wrench, hopefully I’ll be ok.

 

[emtbPhil]

They are torx plus bolts. Make sure you use the correct driver. It's a different fitting to torx hence it feeling loose.

Learn something new every day! Not even a tool I have in my garage from 20 years of building cars lol

I nearly always use the normal strength loctite 243 as you want it to break free when you next need to remove the motor

 

[Bummers]

Learn something new every day! Not even a tool I have in my garage from 20 years of building cars lol

I'll be honest I'd never heard of it either until it was mentioned by someone else. I Had to go and Google what torx plus was. Made sense then why the bolts on the motor cover didn't fit properly in the torx bit I was using.