Creaking main pivot

[RickBullotta]

My Rise was driving me nuts on a recent ride with a consistent creaking noise. The bike had been sitting for a couple months, so I assumed maybe just related to that. But after some investigation and experimentation I found out that the main pivot axle had significantly loosened up. I pulled out the conical expander bolt/spacer, backed out the axle a bit, then retorqued the pivot axle (8mm) to 20Nm and the expander to (4mm) to 5Nm per specs. No more creaking.

Note however that the design of this pivot is utterly AWFUL due to the location of the cables that cover access to the bolt(s). It is very difficult to get a wrench in there without stressing/stretching the cables. I can't envision what the engineers were thinking with that horrific design choice.

Anyway, problem solved for now, and fingers crossed that I didn't damage any cables/wires in the process.

 

[Gismo6303]

Thx you for the post, after one month and 500km on my rise it start creaking somewhere I'll go check the pivot.

 

[Ducman71]

@RickBullotta You're right, that is a fairly thoughtless design layout from a serviceability standpoint for sure. It's quite hard to understand why they didn't route the hose/cable up and over the axle/pivot on that side, like they do on the opposite (drive) side of the main pivot. Out of curiosity, did you try removing (or depressurizing) the shock to fully compress the suspension to see if that helps getting the hose/cable out of the way at all?

 

[RickBullotta]

@RickBullotta You're right, that is a fairly thoughtless design layout from a serviceability standpoint for sure. It's quite hard to understand why they didn't route the hose/cable up and over the axle/pivot on that side, like they do on the opposite (drive) side of the main pivot. Out of curiosity, did you try removing (or depressurizing) the shock to fully compress the suspension to see if that helps getting the hose/cable out of the way at all?

I took out the front shock bolt and it really didn't help that much - still a tight squeeze. But enough to get it done.

 

[Rod B.]

Rick, thank you for the post. Can you post a picture of the pivot point in question?

 

[RickBullotta]

Rick, thank you for the post. Can you post a picture of the pivot point in question?

The Rise Blue Paper shows the torque and threadlock/grease specs for the pivot axle bolt and the expander bolt.

 

[InRustWeTrust]

The Rise Blue Paper shows the torque and threadlock/grease specs for the pivot axle bolt and the expander bolt.

View attachment 74330

@Endurip

 

[Chicane]

Ya, I cut down an allen key to fit in the tight space just to confirm and check that it hasn't come lose.

 

[RickBullotta]

Ya, I cut down an allen key to fit in the tight space just to confirm and check that it hasn't come lose.

just remember that the outer bolt does nothing in terms of actually tensioning the axle and bearings.

 

[Rod B.]

Rick, thank you for the picture. I'll check my bike out.

 

[Slow Goat]

@RickBullotta, few members of Orbea Rise group on Facebook suggest taking brake off the post mount to get slack in the cable. Then pushing the brake cable through the chain stay and disconnecting the cable guide from the frame and rear triangle. In order to reduce the chance of causing damage to sensor cable it needs to be carefully unclipped from the cable guide. That should give enough room. Have not tried it myself yet.

 

[RickBullotta]

It’s really tight even with that. Very close to the cable port on the chainstay

@RickBullotta, few members of Orbea Rise group on Facebook suggest taking brake off the post mount to get slack in the cable. Then pushing the brake cable through the chain stay and disconnecting the cable guide from the frame and rear triangle. In order to reduce the chance of causing damage to sensor cable it needs to be carefully unclipped from the cable guide. That should give enough room. Have not tried it myself yet.

 

[Jfive]

My Rise started creaking on my last ride, particularly on steeper climbs. I thought it was coming from the fork but after some test runs it seems to coming from the middle of the bike. I think I might have the same problem.
Can you help me understand the steps to loosen and re-tighten? Do I start on the drive side or the brake side?

 

[Rod B.]

My Rise started creaking on my last ride, particularly on steeper climbs. I thought it was coming from the fork but after some test runs it seems to coming from the middle of the bike. I think I might have the same problem.
Can you help me understand the steps to loosen and re-tighten? Do I start on the drive side or the brake side?

Jfive,
I've done a two part technical series on servicing the Rise upper and lower pivot axles and linkage. It's a fairly easy process and both articles go into detail on how to perform the service.

In most instances, it will be the upper linkage that is causing the creaking. The cause of the creaking will typically be one of two things, either an axle needs to be re-greased and or, the linkage arms have loosened up and spread apart slightly on the axle splines. Make absolutely sure you use the Loctite 638 cylindrical retaining compound on the upper axle splines as specified in the Part # 1 Upper Axle tech article.

If you do have any questions, send me a message and I'll walk you through the procedure.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Jfive]

Jfive,
I've done a two part technical series on servicing the Rise upper and lower pivot axles and linkage. It's a fairly easy process and both articles go into detail on how to perform the service.

In most instances, it will be the upper linkage that is causing the creaking. The cause of the creaking will typically be one of two things, either an axle needs to be re-greased and or, the linkage arms have loosened up and spread apart slightly on the axle splines. Make absolutely sure you use the Loctite 638 cylindrical retaining compound on the upper axle splines as specified in the Part # 1 Upper Axle tech article.

If you do have any questions, send me a message and I'll walk you through the procedure.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

www.emtbforums.com

Rod, you are awesome. I’ll order that loctite now so I have that before I start. Thank you!

 

[Rod B.]

Rod, you are awesome. I’ll order that loctite now so I have that before I start. Thank you!

I've yet to have an issue with the lower axle assembly other than the occasional creaking from a dry axle assembly which needs to be re-greased. The lower axle assembly when it does start to creak, will have a deep tone to the creaking. The upper axle has a higher pitched tone to the creaking.

There are also two bearings, one on each side of the chainstay at the very rear of the bike. These bearings and the hardware also occasionally need to be re-greased. To check these bearings, you will need to remove the rear wheel and rear wheel axle. Next remove the derailleur hanger. To do this, pull completely out on the plastic castellated retaining nut. While pulling out, turn the castellated nut counterclockwise and it will release from the derailleur hanger.

Next, release the left, non-drive side rear axle nut assembly. Your rear axle threads into this assembly when the rear wheel is installed. To release the axle nut assembly, hold the chainstay in one hand and smack the seatstay in the opposite direction with the palm of your other hand so that the seatstay and chainstay both separate. Remove the axle nut assembly for cleaning and inspect the non drive side bearing. Note that the axle nut assembly hardware has a small nib on it. The chainstay also has a small notch. When re-installing the axle nut assembly, align the nib with the notch and push the nut inwards. If the nib is not aligned with the notch correctly, the axle nut will not fully seat into the chainstay. When I first checked my rear bearings, they did not spin freely. I removed the bearings and they spun freely. When I re-installed them, they froze up again. When I removed them again, they spun freely. I think the chainstay bore for the bearings is too tight. It warps the bearings when they are pressed into the bore. I would not worry if you find your bearings don't spin freely. I would only replace the bearings if they have excessive play, i.e. they are falling apart or rusted solid

90% of the time, if my Rise develops a creak, it will either be a dry upper axle needing grease or the linkage arms had loosened on the axle splines. Since using Loctite 638, I've no longer had a problem with the linkage arms loosening on the axle splines.

When you disassemble the upper linkage and examine the axle, the splines will have some marring on them. This is typically caused by the linkage arms loosening up and moving on the splines. Unless the wear/pitting is severe, I wouldn't worry about it. The Loctite 638 will fill any gaps between the axle splines and splined interface on the linkage arms and create a tight fit. Use a soft rubber mallet to separate the linkage arms from the axle on any future upper axle cleaning and lubrication, as the fitment using the Loctite 638 is firm.

Cheers