Crank a hitting chainstay (2020 160 Hybrid)

[RipGroove]

Is there some kind of spacer available to move my crank arm out a little? And exactly what tools do I need to remove the crank on this bike? There's a little clearance there while static but it must be flexing and rubbing under load.

The photo makes the crank arm look bent because of the angle but in person it looks fine.

 

[Jackware]

I doubt Cube have designed the crank to be that close to the chainstay, either the crank is bent or something is loose on the bike.

 

[RipGroove]

I doubt Cube have designed the crank to be that close to the chainstay, either the crank is bent or something is loose on the bike.

Everything seems tight as far as I can tell. It's got 165mm cranks, wondering if that's what they came with or maybe the previously owner put them on and got the wrong offset (or whatever it's called)?

 

[MrPeaski]

The stock crank arms were 165mm across the range of 2020 Stereo 160 Hybrid, it'll probably tell you on the back of the crank your size.
So either there's something a bit loose, i.e crank arm, or maybe the chainstay bearing is a little worn giving movement, or as you suggest flex in the arm. Thing is, where it is hitting would be on the upstroke, so less force would be apparent there.

Could maybe even a bit of movement of the motor within the frame, check the bolts are torqued up properly
you need a Torx+ bit (can't remember the size) @ 11Nm (asuming the frame is carbon) for the 6 big bolts that go through the frame into the motor and 6Nm for the small plates on the motor itself.

 

[RipGroove]

Good point about the up stroke, didn't think of that, will check motor mount bolts then.

 

[RipGroove]

I can't get to all the motor mount bolts without getting the chainring off and I'm pretty sure I don't have the correct tools to get it off but the bolts I could get to seemed tight enough. I'll figure out what tools I need and strip it down a bit better when I can.

 

[RipGroove]

I had a look on eBay for the same model bike and one of them on there seems to have a wear mark in the exact same place on the chainstay:

 

[MrPeaski]

Is it possible that your right hand crank is a little bent?
Take both crank arms off and compare by lying then on top of each other.
You could even swap them over to check the clearance as apart from the left/right hand thread for the pedals they should be identical.
Obviously you cant ride it like that as eventually the pedal could unscrew.

You'll need an 8mm Allen key to remove the crank bolts and a crank puller to pull the arms off.
One like this will do, as it will do both the narrow square taper type cranks, and the oversize ones common on a lot of Ebikes

BBB PowerPull Crank Puller

Buy BBB PowerPull Crank Puller at Tweeks Cycles. Shop the biggest brands with confidence and enjoy rapid worldwide delivery & 365 day returns.

www.tweekscycles.com

 

[RipGroove]

Is it possible that your right hand crank is a little bent?
Take both crank arms off and compare by lying then on top of each other.
You could even swap them over to check the clearance as apart from the left/right hand thread for the pedals they should be identical.
Obviously you cant ride it like that as eventually the pedal could unscrew.

You'll need an 8mm Allen key to remove the crank bolts and a crank puller to pull the arms off.
One like this will do, as it will do both the narrow square taper type cranks, and the oversize ones common on a lot of Ebikes

BBB PowerPull Crank Puller

Buy BBB PowerPull Crank Puller at Tweeks Cycles. Shop the biggest brands with confidence and enjoy rapid worldwide delivery & 365 day returns.

www.tweekscycles.com

Nice one thanks, so it's just a regular crank extractor then, I have one somewhere but I can't seem to find it anywhere, I must have leaant it to someone I'll order another and go from there.

 

[MrPeaski]

Pretty much, just check that the 'pusher' doesn't just disappear into motor shaft. if it does, stick a 5p piece in first for it to push against.
It should just sit nicely over the shaft and self centre inside the crank arm. Don't expect it to come back out flat tho

 

[RipGroove]

Pretty much, just check that the 'pusher' doesn't just disappear into motor shaft. if it does, stick a 5p piece in first for it to push against.
It should just sit nicely over the shaft and self centre inside the crank arm. Don't expect it to come back out flat tho

lol nice tip, thanks.

 

[Nick314]

The stock crank arms were 165mm across the range of 2020 Stereo 160 Hybrid, it'll probably tell you on the back of the crank your size.
So either there's something a bit loose, i.e crank arm, or maybe the chainstay bearing is a little worn giving movement, or as you suggest flex in the arm. Thing is, where it is hitting would be on the upstroke, so less force would be apparent there.

Could maybe even a bit of movement of the motor within the frame, check the bolts are torqued up properly
you need a Torx+ bit (can't remember the size) @ 11Nm (asuming the frame is carbon) for the 6 big bolts that go through the frame into the motor and 6Nm for the small plates on the motor itself.

This sounds good advice, there's no way Cube would agree this to be normal. I've just checked mine and there is at least 4mm clearance.

 

[RipGroove]

I'll have another look for my extractor this afternoon and if I can't find it I'll have to order another one so I can remove and check them. I'll get a chainring lockring tool while I'm at it so I can remove that to get to all the motor mount bolts also.

 

[yorkshire89]

Had the same issue on my bike (not a Cube) from new, turned out the wrong Q factor crank arms were fitted. Ended up with new crank arms and a chainstay under warranty

 

[RipGroove]

Had the same issue on my bike (not a Cube) from new, turned out the wrong Q factor crank arms were fitted. Ended up with new crank arms and a chainstay under warranty

Q-factor, that's the term I couldn't remember earlier, I'm not the original owner of mine so I assume it's not covered by warranty now, it's a 2020 bike and I have no idea where it was originally purchased from. Is the Q-factor written on the crank arms? I'm not home at the moment so can't check.

 

[MrPeaski]

Not sure if this is going to help but...
I have the 2020 160 Action Team which frame/motor wise will be the same as what @RipGroove has.
Stock it came with 165mm E Thirteen cranks which I have replaced with Hope 155mm ones. However after a bit of measuring I took a gamble and went with the narrow offset version instead of the normal offset version.
Here are pictures to see if its any use

Stock E-Thirteen Arms 165mm

Motor End Close up

Pedal End Close up

Hope Narrow Offset 155mm Drive Side (with crank boot fitted)

Hope Narrow Offset 155mm Non Drive Side (with crank boot fitted)

Here is a link as well to the dimensions of the hope cranks, showing all the offsets and q-factor etc

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/E-BIKECrankFitmentDiagram_web.pdf

So far despite it being close (not as close as in the OP's picture, there have been no strikes to the chainstay
I think If I'd have gone with the 165mm version, then I would have had to use the standard offset.

 

[RipGroove]

Not sure if this is going to help but...
I have the 2020 160 Action Team which frame/motor wise will be the same as what @RipGroove has.
Stock it came with 165mm E Thirteen cranks which I have replaced with Hope 155mm ones. However after a bit of measuring I took a gamble and went with the narrow offset version instead of the normal offset version.
Here are pictures to see if its any use

Stock E-Thirteen Arms 165mm
View attachment 94395

Motor End Close up
View attachment 94401

Pedal End Close up View attachment 94399


Hope Narrow Offset 155mm Drive Side (with crank boot fitted)
View attachment 94398

Hope Narrow Offset 155mm Non Drive Side (with crank boot fitted)
View attachment 94397

Here is a link as well to the dimensions of the hope cranks, showing all the offsets and q-factor etc

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/E-BIKECrankFitmentDiagram_web.pdf

So far despite it being close (not as close as in the OP's picture, there have been no strikes to the chainstay
I think If I'd have gone with the 165mm version, then I would have had to use the standard offset.

Thanks, good info there Once my extractor arrives I'll compare the info on my cranks to yours.

 

[RipGroove]

One dished 5p later (thanks @MrPeaski) The cranks are off and don't appear to be bent, no offset value written on them anywhere (unless EC43-F11 means anything to anyone) so still unsure as to what's going on.

Unfortunately the chainring lockring tool I ordered doesn't fit (Icetoolz M801), entirely my fault probably as I've just ordered the wrong thing (their tools are actually really nice). So anyone know exactly what lockring tool I need? If I can get the chainring off I can check all the motor mount bolts properly.

 

[MrPeaski]

This is the one I use, which is unfortunately out of stock at the mo
BB Tool 8 Prong

If you read the reviews/questions it also give an idea of similar tools that would also be compatible

Amazon do this which looking at the reviews fits the Gen4 Bosch lock ring

 

[MrPeaski]

Before the new lockring tool arrives, see if there is any play in the chainstays, the bearings may have a bit of wear in them

 

[Hicksy 92]

Is there some kind of spacer available to move my crank arm out a little? And exactly what tools do I need to remove the crank on this bike? There's a little clearance there while static but it must be flexing and rubbing under load.

The photo makes the crank arm look bent because of the angle but in person it looks fine.

View attachment 94184

View attachment 94183

My 2021 action team 160 was vey close as well , luckily I noticed it just touching the rubber, the dealer re-laced the e13 cranks with cubes acid cranks which gave it more clearance but it was only 10 mm ish , I swear they where flexing too and just touch the rubber , I was wonder if the motor was sat square in the frame , I had heard of some treks having the motors out of alinement and doing the same thing ,
sold my bike now , that solved the issue

 

[RipGroove]

I made a 1mm thick stainless steel shim to 'fix' this in the end.

I made 2 shims so if 1mm isn't enough then I can double up to 2mm.

And a bit of 3M carbon to hide the scratch in the paint.

 

[Nick314]

Glad the shims work, but I'd prob guess that the crank is slightly bent back, or the motor isn't seated quite right...?

 

[RipGroove]

Glad the shims work, but I'd prob guess that the crank is slightly bent back, or the motor isn't seated quite right...?

I couldn't find anything to be at fault in the end, I checked the cranks for flat on a granite table at work and from what I can tell the motor is straight and all the mounting bolts are torqued up so shimming it was the only thing I could do, it's only 1mm so not going to cause any issues.

 

[Nick314]

I couldn't find anything to be at fault in the end, I checked the cranks for flat on a granite table at work and from what I can tell the motor is straight and all the mounting bolts are torqued up so shimming it was the only thing I could do, it's only 1mm so not going to cause any issues.

Weird, but glad you've got it sorted now...