Considering going tubeless. Is it worth going to a lighter tire over the stock Butcher and Eliminator?

Mike R

New Member
May 9, 2020
3
0
Waterford, Wisconsin
Just bought my '19 base Levo Monday. I keep reading how many recommend going tubeless. I have a shop by me that will charge $50 to setup both tires. Wondering if it is worth it and if I should also replace the stock tires for a lighter set to help even more?
What do you guys (gals) think?
 

MrBrownstone

Well-known member
May 2, 2020
430
643
Maine
Just bought my '19 base Levo Monday. I keep reading how many recommend going tubeless. I have a shop by me that will charge $50 to setup both tires. Wondering if it is worth it and if I should also replace the stock tires for a lighter set to help even more?
What do you guys (gals) think?

Tubeless is definitely the way to go IMO. Don’t switch tires. Run them till they die then go lighter if you want to depending on how the stock tires held up. I like a good 7-800 gram tire. My 504wh battery likes it too.?
 

Careyj1

Member
May 6, 2020
86
77
USA
I recommend going tubeless. I think mountain bikes should be setup tubeless. Changing the tires depends on what kind of dirt and riding you are doing to do. Loose are hard and fast cornering are not strong points of the stock tires. If you do a lot of road riding, if you switch to better rolling tires it will be a benefit. Also the stock tires do better with pressure under 25 psi or less for someone that weights 195 pounds with full gear. I did a ride with 16 front and 18 rear and they grip was good. I have already bought two Maxxis Dissector tires 2.6 and 2.4 and I am waiting to mount. I also might try Maxxis Recon front and back for a faster rolling tire.
 

B1rdie

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
Feb 14, 2019
884
1,088
Brazil
If only for the reason of lessening the wheight of the bike I would not go tubeless on my ebike.
That said, getting rid if flats and having some improvement in grip (witch is not an advantage so important for begginers) are the reasons I would.
In my spectral I am using stans inside the tube, never had to stop for a flat so far, 1 year 1600 km.
 

Banktramp

Well-known member
Jul 13, 2019
325
315
West Midlands
I switched over to tubeless, i went from Butchers to Schwalbe. I went for Magic Mary on the front and Eddie Current rear, the Roval rims on my 2019 Levo are tubeless ready so was just a case of getting vales and sealant.

Its easy to do so watch some youtube videos and save some money. I've no regrets!!!
 

MrBrownstone

Well-known member
May 2, 2020
430
643
Maine
Nice thing about running the stock tires even on the road to get to trails Is they will become lighter and faster rolling as the miles slip by and the knobs wear down. Stock rubber is a terrible thing to waste....

My stock rear maxxis forekaster barely has any center tread left after over 2000 mixed terrain miles but the side knobs are in great shape and trail conditions (rocks roots dirt) are dry so much center tread just slows ya down. Plenty of grip running 20 psi front and rear.
849B2188-BBEA-4F11-9F12-C390D6670A05.jpeg
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,871
9,206
Lincolnshire, UK
Going tubeless is a fascinating journey. So many benefits are claimed, so many problems too. Big fans, big detractors. Me I'm a fan. My first switch was not to lose weight, I actually went for a heavier tyre, but it was still lighter than the old tyre plus tube, then made heavier by adding the sealant. What I wanted was to never have to stop trailside in the rain, fixing a flat. Big Tick for that one! :love:

Play around with tyre pressures; do not assume that your old pressures are the correct ones for your new tubeless set up. By the way @Mike R, tyres feel different without a tube. The tube adds side support to the tyre and you may have to increase air pressure to get the ride feel you are used to. But there is no doubt that you can reduce pressure if your existing pressure is there to avoid snakebite punctures of the tube.

I agree with the advice from others on here to use up the tyres you have. Get rid of them when they are either worn out, not doing the job you need, or you get fed up of them! Unless you are an XC rider, or the tyre is a real brute, I would not go with a lighter construction tyre. The gain will be minimal, but the downside is an increase in tyre problems.
Having said that I would not go for a lighter construction tyre, I am aware that I have just fitted the original tyres back on to the bike,! Why? Because summer is almost here and the trails are dry! They are slightly wider and slightly lighter and with the rear a single compound, whereas the wet weather tyres are 3C on the rear. I have noticed that I can go 1-2 mph faster above the cut-off speed than I could before on the same section of trail.
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,490
4,969
Weymouth
I went tubeless and to be honest wondered why some folk seem to experience problems. It was easy to do and has paid dividends ever since. I still run the original Butcher Grid 2.6 tyres and have pulled countless thorns out of them each of which would have been a puncture if I was still using tubes. I used to run 26f 28r pressures but now run 20f 22r and the biggest difference is not in grip but in ride comfort. I personally think the biggest difference between tyres is not in absolute grip level but in matching tread pattern to the surface you ride. Weight is not a huge issue on an emtb so I would always go for greater protection v weight saving.....albeit not to the extent of a full downhill tyre. My tips for successful conversion to tubeless are to first make sure both the rim and the tyre are scrupilously clean. Second make sure the tubeless valve seal is a good fit and well secured with the valve nut...but not overtightened so as to distort the seal. Third lube the rim and tyre wall with soapy water. Fourth once inflated lay the wheel flat for 10 mins turnover and repeat. This ensures the sealant spreads around the seal between tyre and rim. Lastly do one ride with relatively high pressures otherwise burping the tyre is more likely. Thereafter find your ideal reduced pressures.
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,702
the internet
Tyres are the single biggest difference you can make to any bike.
So choose wisely.
The wisest choice will differ hugely from rider to rider.
and your choice should be based on a combination of the following
  • tread patern and profile (different knob shapes, sizes, spacing work differently in different conditions/terrain)
  • volume (this affects comfort, grip/rolling resistance and weight
  • rubber durometer (softness/grippiness/rolling resistance)
  • casing (tougher casings are heavier, lighter casings are more prone to damage)
  • weight (This will affect handling massively, a lighter tyre accelerates and changes direction more easily while a heavier tyre will be more stable with greater inertia)
But also remember your front tyre requires different traits to the rear

But, Yes. IMO anyone'd be a fool to run 1300g tyres with 300g tubes on a 50lb bike if their terrain and riding does not warrant more protection than that of an 800g tubeless tyre and 80g of sealant.
Similarly running super grippy agressively tread slow rolling tyres if your terrain is not particualrly technical/difficult doesn't make a lot of sense either.
 

p3eps

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
Dec 14, 2019
1,955
2,361
Scotland
I’ve been running tubeless tyres for about 4 years now, and have never had an issue until the last couple of months.

I swapped from Specialized tyres to a DHF and DHRII EXO just before lockdown started. I could not get the DHF to inflate using a regular pump (never needed to use a charger in the past), so I had to take it to my LBS to get them to blow it up! The DHRII sealed no bother. Bought myself a JoeBlow charger pump for future.

I then swapped out the valves, and ended up with a leaking front one. I small piece of PTFE tape resolved that.

About 10 days ago, my rear tyre spilt. The hole was too big for the sealant, and I didn’t have a spare tube with me. At approx 8 miles from my house, and 8.30pm, I had to call for backup and get a lift home!!

Swapped to Michelin Wild Enduro tyres and bought a Stan’s Dart took for fixing bigger punctures. I carried a spare tube on my last few rides - but I think I’ll just keep that for longer rides.

I’ve been riding loads of thorny trails (my shins can confirm this!) recently in lockdown, and I think I’d have had loads of small punctures if I hadn’t been tubeless.
 

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