Code R Brake issue

[Deleted member 7401]

The rear brake has been bled twice within the 1st 100 miles of owning the bike. It feels as though by the time I’m done with any 20+ mile ride the brake lever is nearly touching the bars.

Anyone else experiencing similar issues? Any recommendations for increasing power or durability? Or is this it with the code R brakes?

 

[Barty_NorthVan]

Same with my Code's and all SRAM brakes I've owned. That's why I will eventually switch to XT or Zees

 

[rb.]

The last time I ran Codes was right when they came out on my 2018 Enduro. They lasted 4 or 5 rides and I switched to Zees that I ran all the way up until purchasing the Decoy. I decided to sell my previous bike with the Zees and give the Codes a second chance. This time they lasted 2 rides before I sold them and bought another set of Zees. If money isn’t an issue, I’d suggest the new XTR brakes. If not, sell the Codes on pinkbike for $200 and buy a set of Zees or XT’s for $240.

 

[Barty_NorthVan]

The last time I ran Codes was right when they came out on my 2018 Enduro. They lasted 4 or 5 rides and I switched to Zees that I ran all the way up until purchasing the Decoy. I decided to sell my previous bike with the Zees and give the Codes a second chance. This time they lasted 2 rides before I sold them and bought another set of Zees. If money isn’t an issue, I’d suggest the new XTR brakes. If not, sell the Codes on pinkbike for $200 and buy a set of Zees or XT’s for $240.

Where can I get Zee's for $240?

 

[rb.]

Where can I get Zee's for $240?

Prices will fluctuate plus or minus $20. If you do some searching, you can usually find them for around $110 per brake. I like universal Cycles listed first in my screenshot below. They ship super quick and half a ton in stock.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Depending what you're doing :

With Finned Metal. (The finned pads can rattle sometimes for some people).

Shimano ZEE BR-M640-B H03C Disc Brake Set | Disc Brake - Sets Shop

With Resin.

Shimano ZEE BR-M640-B D01S Disc Brake Set | Disc Brake - Sets Shop

 

[YokoOno]

My first "upgrade" upon getting my Decoy was to swap the Codes for Saints (essentially the same as Zees recommended by others).

I've had too many bad experiences with Avid/SRAM brakes in the past.

My buddy also just purchased a DEcoy. He's in the bike industry and knows what he's doing. He's bled his rear Code and it still has a wandering bite point. He's ditching the Codes shortly.

The Shimano Saint/Zee is easy to bleed, very powerful and the metallic pads last a long time. Swapping the rear line is a minor PITA and will require a new insert, olive and a full bleed. Drop the battery and pay close attention to the line routing adjacent to the electric wires.

 

[rb.]

The Shimano Saint/Zee is easy to bleed, very powerful and the metallic pads last a long time. Swapping the rear line is a minor PITA and will require a new insert, olive and a full bleed. Drop the battery and pay close attention to the line routing adjacent to the electric wires.

Not true of you are careful and know what you are doing. I cut the line, routed it through (which was really easy on this bike), and just did a 30 second top bleed to try and remove any air pockets that may have formed. Did nearly 15k’ of descending this weekend on the Zees and they worked perfectly. Yes, you will need a new olive and barb, which come with the brakes if you buy new.

 

[YokoOno]

Not true of you are careful and know what you are doing. I cut the line, routed it through (which was really easy on this bike), and just did a 30 second top bleed to try and remove any air pockets that may have formed. Did nearly 15k’ of descending this weekend on the Zees and they worked perfectly. Yes, you will need a new olive and barb, which come with the brakes if you buy new.

What part isn't true?
The bleed part? I can see doing a "mini top bleed", but ultimately those don't work great for me, so I always do a two syringe bleed when I have to cut a line

 

[rb.]

What part isn't true?
The bleed part? I can see doing a "mini top bleed", but ultimately those don't work great for me, so I always do a two syringe bleed when I have to cut a line

I did not have to do a full bleed nor was it a major PITA at all for me. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Sapientiea]

I own and maintain my 4 mtb's with Code R and rsc brakes. Never have had fading brakes like is described other than was caused by something I did wrong during bleeding. Maybe there is something wrong with your brakes from the factory or you have leaking seal or something? I weigh 100+kg and my brakes really have to work hard.

 

[rb.]

I own and maintain my 4 mtb's with Code R and rsc brakes. Never have had fading brakes like is described other than was caused by something I did wrong during bleeding. Maybe there is something wrong with your brakes from the factory or you have leaking seal or something? I weigh 100+kg and my brakes really have to work hard.

I like my brakes to have a hard stop, aggressive bite point, and maximum power. No matter how good SRAM brakes are bled, they will never compare to shimano brakes on these aspects.

 

[lumpy]

The rear brake has been bled twice within the 1st 100 miles of owning the bike. It feels as though by the time I’m done with any 20+ mile ride the brake lever is nearly touching the bars.

Anyone else experiencing similar issues? Any recommendations for increasing power or durability? Or is this it with the code R brakes?

What pads are you running? I'd cook my stock SRAM organic pads on my long steep descents so I went to sintered metallic and it's made a huge improvement in power and heat managment

 

[RobNevyn]

I have to agree with the general sentiment here, my Code R's back brakes have been an issue several times over the last 18 months, tried different pads, bleeding etc, they eventually get to the point where they fade and pull to the bars. The front appears to be no issue apart from noise with the metal pads. Changed to the softer pads and now the front works great. Comparing to XT's which I have had zero issues with front or back.

 

[Barty_NorthVan]

I have to agree with the general sentiment here, my Code R's back brakes have been an issue several times over the last 18 months, tried different pads, bleeding etc, they eventually get to the point where they fade and pull to the bars. The front appears to be no issue apart from noise with the metal pads. Changed to the softer pads and now the front works great. Comparing to XT's which I have had zero issues with front or back.

Yes I agree. the Rear brake is the culprit. I've resorted to moving it over and using 2 fingers to get enough power to get them to stop. Looking for Zee's or Saints now.

 

[Sapientiea]

I like my brakes to have a hard stop, aggressive bite point, and maximum power. No matter how good SRAM brakes are bled, they will never compare to shimano brakes on these aspects.

Yeah maybe it is what I am used to I do not know. There is some play before Code's lock up, but I think it finally comes down on preference.

 

[Sapientiea]

What pads are you running? I'd cook my stock SRAM organic pads on my long steep descents so I went to sintered metallic and it's made a huge improvement in power and heat managment

With my weight and long descents organic pads just burn away with me, literally smoking heavily. Sintered pads are better for that. On my Jeffsy I like organic pads better as long as I do not do very long downhills.

 

[GuyBerry]

Does it pump up?
I had a cracked hydraulic line where the hose enters the rear triangle, oil leaked out.

 

[Tex]

I've ran hope 2,4 and 6 pot all brutal brakes so when i went to the code r's i felt they were rubbish lever to bar but after changing to sintered pads and bedding them in they work really well and i like the fact you have a lot off modulation the bike and me weigh in at 140kg and they stop me no probs when i have to.