Clik Valves

[DaveMatthews]

Just bought a set of Clik Valves

Clik Valve Hi-Flow Cores for Presta Stems

A revolutionary leap in tire inflation technology, the quick-connect Clik Valve Hi-Flow Cores are engineered to replace traditional Presta (Sclaverand) valve cores, offering compatibility with most Presta stems. This set of two (2) brass cores comes in a classic nickel-plated finish. Clik Valve...

clikvalve.com

The Presta valves always seem to need a tool to loosen every week, even though I only ever finger tighten after adding air.
It will be interesting to see how these do...

 

[LA_Stu]

I've had them for a couple of months now, and I really like them!

 

[DaveMatthews]

I've had them for a couple of months now, and I really like them!

That's what I wanna hear!

 

[Joecrow]

I was tempted by these when I saw an ad. for them by Schwalbe (who also offer them for Dunlop valves) but then I thought about it and:- I already have one of those little screw on adaptors to use a car valve (AV) pump or air at a filling station and my wifes Cube came with AV valves anyway. So I would not want to permanently adapt my home pump or the emergency compressed air cannistor thingy and that little screw on adaptor would no longer work, I would still an adaptor but a different one!
I am no fan of the Presta valves but I'm not sure the click valves are the solution, better to convert to AV valved tubes when possible imho.

Schwalbe version

and a retrofit kit including adaptor for AV pumps etc.

 

[irie]

Looked at Clik valves but didn't want to mess with pump adapters etc.

Instead bought Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves which are Presta pump etc. compatible. Didn't use the valve stems, simply screwed the valve parts onto our existing Presta stems which at 40mm are pretty short. Look fine, easy to use, and no air loss.

 

[whitymon]

It looks like a nice innovation but it is a protected patent, cork are just awful. I would only consider it if, maintstream and open patent.

I understand some people face stuck, bent presta valve, etc (happened 1 or 2 times in decade and you just need to replace the valve core)

But the real solution would have been to ask brands to use shrader for mtb, not going again into something new.

Suspensions already use shrader with way bigger pressure and it is just way more robust, failed to see why we should not use it back.

 

[Joecrow]

Instead bought Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves which are Presta pump etc. compatible

Look good but at $50 in the very luxuary price class and tubeless only!

 

[RustyMTB]

I entertained the idea until clicking the link & having to kill three pop ups in ten seconds. Now I want to kill again & become a roadie.

 

[VWsurfbum]

Just bought a set of Clik Valves

Clik Valve Hi-Flow Cores for Presta Stems

A revolutionary leap in tire inflation technology, the quick-connect Clik Valve Hi-Flow Cores are engineered to replace traditional Presta (Sclaverand) valve cores, offering compatibility with most Presta stems. This set of two (2) brass cores comes in a classic nickel-plated finish. Clik Valve...

clikvalve.com

The Presta valves always seem to need a tool to loosen every week, even though I only ever finger tighten after adding air.
It will be interesting to see how these do...

These look good, not come across them before, useful for the compressor seating.

 

[DaveMatthews]

Well, I guess I'll find out soon enough. They are currently in Ontario California, and coming to Vancouver by April 8th snailmail...

 

[irie]

It looks like a nice innovation but it is a protected patent, cork are just awful. I would only consider it if, maintstream and open patent.

I understand some people face stuck, bent presta valve, etc (happened 1 or 2 times in decade and you just need to replace the valve core)

But the real solution would have been to ask brands to use shrader for mtb, not going again into something new.

Suspensions already use shrader with way bigger pressure and it is just way more robust, failed to see why we should not use it back.

The main advantages of the Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves for us are:

1. Simple retrofit without the need to change valve stems.

2. Don't jam up with sealant (not so far (with Muc-Off sealant)).

3. Can inject sealant through valves when changing tyres and when topping up sealant.

4. Compatible with our existing pumps.

5. If valve is damaged, in an emergency can insert a standard Presta core.

YMMV.

 

[whitymon]

The main advantages of the Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves for us are:

1. Simple retrofit without the need to change valve stems.

2. Don't jam up with sealant (not so far (with Muc-Off sealant)).

3. Can inject sealant through valves when changing tyres and when topping up sealant.

4. Compatible with our existing pumps.

5. If valve is damaged, in an emergency can insert a standard Presta core.

YMMV.

Not sure about point 3? Currently I am removing the valve core on presta without any fuzz to add sealant with a syringe, how muc-off would be better for me, I really have zero issue with that.

Yeah you can dig the metal pin to level the amount of sealant not sure I have ever need its use, I just put some at nearly fixed interval, it is not like it's something that would varies much for me. Not like oil car

The only time I had issue with jam sealant in a core was with MucOff product and storing the bike during a long time valve core in a peculiar position. Since 2022 with Stans and adequate storage, I never ever had such issue.

When I see big bore muc-off I see zero plus to me, more marketing.

 

[irie]

Not sure about point 3? Currently I am removing the valve core on presta without any fuzz to add sealant with a syringe, how muc-off would be better for me, I really have zero issue with that.

Yeah you can dig the metal pin to level the amount of sealant not sure I have ever need its use, I just put some at nearly fixed interval, it is not like it's something that would varies much for me. Not like oil car

The only time I had issue with jam sealant in a core was with MucOff product and storing the bike during a long time valve core in a peculiar position. Since 2022 with Stans and adequate storage, I never ever had such issue.

When I see big bore muc-off I see zero plus to me, more marketing.

As I said, YMMV ... which it obviously does.

 

[G-Sport]

Been on the Click valves since just before Xmas. Absolutely love them.

Checking tyre pressure and adding more air if necessary is much better than with Presta and I would argue better than Schraeder (car) too.

With Presta and Schraeder you are trying to make a seal between the pump head and a sharp thread. This inherently is inclined to leak (through the thread) and by wiggling to the side as you try to clamp on a fairly short length of thread. The thread also slowly chews up the rubber seal. You also have the extra step of tightening (or screwing on) the pump head.

I haven't seen any coverage of this but the Click valve seals on the INSIDE of the valve. A stainless thin walled tube (like a giant hypodermic needle) goes down inside the Click valve and is sealed by an O-ring; whilst the outside clips on to keep it down.
As well as sealing perfectly (very quickly) this also stays on without any supervision even if you are pumping like crazy with both hands on the track pump.

It may sound trivial, but the time saved:-
1. Unscrewing a valve cap, (which you have to do with both Presta and Schraeder and Muc-Off and Fillmore etc etc)
2. and (in the case of presta) unscrewing the valve itself.
3. Screwing on or toggling the lever of the pump head.
4. Keeping the pump relatively steady so that the pump head doesn't leak on the valve.
5. Unscrewing or removing pump head.
6. (in the case of presta etc) re-tightening the valve itself.
7. Re-screwing valve cap on.

Which is now just:-
1. Pull cap off.
2. Push pump head on.
(pump without worrying about head coming loose)
3. Pull pump head off.
4. Push cap back on.

Is really noticeable. (though I do have 2 valves to check on each wheel so this was always more of a pain for me than most people)

It is also nice that whatever pressure I get on the pump it seems like there is zero leakage when disconnecting so I feel confident the pressure is spot on.

I was also pleasantly surprised that my existing Presta mini-pump and Topeak D2 digital gauge work on them with zero issues.

100% recommend.

 

[Giff]

Are these the same as Fillmore valves?

 

[G-Sport]

Are these the same as Fillmore valves?

No.

Better in my opinion. Easier to retro-fit (no need to take tyre off or change valve and potentially upset the seal) too.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Been on the Click valves since just before Xmas. Absolutely love them.

I was also pleasantly surprised that my existing Presta mini-pump and Topeak D2 digital gauge work on them with zero issues.

100% recommend.

Thanks for @G-Sport

 

[Giff]

No.

Better in my opinion. Easier to retro-fit (no need to take tyre off or change valve and potentially upset the seal) too.

Thanks

 

[DaveMatthews]

Been on the Click valves since just before Xmas. Absolutely love them.

Checking tyre pressure and adding more air if necessary is much better than with Presta and I would argue better than Schraeder (car) too.

With Presta and Schraeder you are trying to make a seal between the pump head and a sharp thread. This inherently is inclined to leak (through the thread) and by wiggling to the side as you try to clamp on a fairly short length of thread. The thread also slowly chews up the rubber seal. You also have the extra step of tightening (or screwing on) the pump head.

I haven't seen any coverage of this but the Click valve seals on the INSIDE of the valve. A stainless thin walled tube (like a giant hypodermic needle) goes down inside the Click valve and is sealed by an O-ring; whilst the outside clips on to keep it down.
As well as sealing perfectly (very quickly) this also stays on without any supervision even if you are pumping like crazy with both hands on the track pump.

It may sound trivial, but the time saved:-
1. Unscrewing a valve cap, (which you have to do with both Presta and Schraeder and Muc-Off and Fillmore etc etc)
2. and (in the case of presta) unscrewing the valve itself.
3. Screwing on or toggling the lever of the pump head.
4. Keeping the pump relatively steady so that the pump head doesn't leak on the valve.
5. Unscrewing or removing pump head.
6. (in the case of presta etc) re-tightening the valve itself.
7. Re-screwing valve cap on.

Which is now just:-
1. Pull cap off.
2. Push pump head on.
(pump without worrying about head coming loose)
3. Pull pump head off.
4. Push cap back on.

Is really noticeable. (though I do have 2 valves to check on each wheel so this was always more of a pain for me than most people)

It is also nice that whatever pressure I get on the pump it seems like there is zero leakage when disconnecting so I feel confident the pressure is spot on.

I was also pleasantly surprised that my existing Presta mini-pump and Topeak D2 digital gauge work on them with zero issues.

100% recommend.

Brilliant!
Exactly what I was hoping to hear/experience. Hopefully mine will be here on Tuesday.

 

[Joecrow]

I assume a standard car (Schraeder valve) pressure guage is not compatible with Click valves, so how to get an accurate pressure reading? OK I accept the same applies to Presta and Dunlop valves but with Schraders (AV) all is sweet

 

[whitymon]

I can’t see any issue with pumping and remove the pump that would leak air.
I put more than I want all the time then use a Topeak gauge for precision psi.

For the rest written above click looks cool

 

[irie]

... though I do have 2 valves to check on each wheel ...