Check those crank bolts

[Link]

I read that you should check the tightness of the crank arm bolts after riding a new bike, (never bothered in previous none-ebike but thought i better) well i checked my e-thirteen arms against the spec of 40nm and both sides took a bit of a turn before hitting the torque. Anyone who hasn't checked theirs, prob worth doing...

 

[gfunkmc]

I read that you should check the tightness of the crank arm bolts after riding a new bike, (never bothered in previous none-ebike but thought i better) well i checked my e-thirteen arms against the spec of 40nm and both sides took a bit of a turn before hitting the torque. Anyone who hasn't checked theirs, prob worth doing...

View attachment 46708

Yeh 3 rides in and lucky enough I found the bolt about 20 metres away

 

[Sean1.0]

I read that you should check the tightness of the crank arm bolts after riding a new bike, (never bothered in previous none-ebike but thought i better) well i checked my e-thirteen arms against the spec of 40nm and both sides took a bit of a turn before hitting the torque. Anyone who hasn't checked theirs, prob worth doing...

View attachment 46708

Always a good call... I'd check everything on a new bike.

Maybe worth a mention that e*thirteen appear to have listed the wrong Park tool to pull isis (splined) cranks ... it's not the Park ccp-22 (or equivalent) which is for square taper and won't work ... it should be the Park ccp--44 or the cwp-7 (or equivalents)

I'd rec the cwp-7 as it does both and you can get a bigger wrench on it if needs be.

Obviously, if your cranks are falling off then the last thing you need is a removal tool

 

[BLOJOE]

Only 100 miles on my 9.7 but not a budge going to 40 Nm. Still good advice - will continue to check as I ride!