Chainring changing - what tool?

caterhamnut

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Hi - changing chainring (and cassette and chain!) - do I need a special tool to remove that notched ring that is holding the spider on?
8B1F458F-FB7D-4ACD-92AA-0368ED47D710.jpeg
 

caterhamnut

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So, learning that nothing is standard! The nice new Shimano SLX chainring I got has the ‘offset’ pattern of 4 holes, but the bike has a spider/chainring with 4 evenly spaced holes....? - my fault, should have checked!
 

Dax

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Assuming the chain ring mounts with normal chain ring bolts, you can usually get a screwdriver onto the back of them at 90 degrees to the bolt. It's not ideal but allows you to get them tight enough to stop them spinning and let you torque them up
 
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caterhamnut

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Thanks for the tool info ASV - appreciated...
Got my RaceFace chainring arriving from Chaunreaction today, so fingers crossed....
Ordered last night at about 8pm, delivery today for an extra £4 - pretty good service!
 

All Mountain Coaching

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Assuming the chain ring mounts with normal chain ring bolts, you can usually get a screwdriver onto the back of them at 90 degrees to the bolt. It's not ideal but allows you to get them tight enough to stop them spinning and let you torque them up
wolftooth uses a 6mm in the back and a 4mm in the front. its not possible to jam a 6mm at any angle in there. ive tried it all.
I used a dining room knife, then Allen key in the chain ring wedged against the frame to fully tighten. Was a faff but worked.
 
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Webike

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wolftooth uses a 6mm in the back and a 4mm in the front. its not possible to jam a 6mm at any angle in there. ive tried it all.
You can always take the 6mm Allen hex tool and cut it down to 1/4" long +/_ with a Dremel type of carborundum cutting disc and then it should fit between teh plastic motor housing at the 7:00 position.
 

Dax

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I would cut a length off the straight end of the Allen wrench and hold it in a 6mm open ended wrench, might get a few more mm of bite.

Its properly tight in there, surprised they haven't built it to allow access.
 

Webike

E*POWAH Master
Dec 13, 2018
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San Luis Obispo County
NOTE: The Spech maintenance manual suggest using the BROSE SPLINE COVER which is part #S17530006. It evidently slides over the splines and rest against the motor housing so the puller pressure is transferred to the motor housing and not directly to the drive shaft. I've never done it so don't know if it could damage the motor bearings like Spech implies. Careful ...

BTW, thoughtful suggestion by Dax to try using the allen cutoff to hold the CR nut in that narrow space.
 

Webike

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Dec 13, 2018
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San Luis Obispo County
Like I implied, I don't know if it is absolutely needed or just precautionary overkill but the Spech service manual shows it in photos so I'd be reluctant to apply too much pressure with the two point puller. A socket may work if the wall is thin enough to rest on the appropriate point.

I'm amazed at how the younger generations have adapted to this 3D printing thing since I'm rather old school and ignorant of this new tech. I'd probably end up with a short section of appropriately sized pipe with a thick washer on top...;) Good on ya!
 
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Webike

E*POWAH Master
Dec 13, 2018
101
110
San Luis Obispo County
Pretty good photo documentation for a "fuggen slut"...;)

I'd assume that the spider would become harder to remove with age and corrosion, but did it take much pressure on the puller to break the spider free on your new condition bike?

Lucky find on the metal cup...you hoarders must have one of everything.. just like the TV show.
 

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