Thanks for the replies everyone...appreciate the feedback. I decided to order the OEM KMC chain. If the new chain slips, I'll run the old one 'til it breaks/slips and then replace both the chain and cassette together. I'll post an update when I install the new chain.
Chain Life
- Thread starter Mountie
- Start date
OldGoatMTB
E*POWAH Master
I think I would have just cleaned the second chain instead of replacing it. How about this strategy? Start with a new chain and run it until 0.5 stretch, then replace with a new chain and run until 0.75 stretch, and then replace with first chain and run it until 0.75, and then replace everything?
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
I'm planning on that, although the second chain will also be run to 0.5. Then fit the 1st chain and run to 0.75, then fit the 2nd chain for the second time! Well, that's the plan!
Thats right and then just keep swapping the chains around until don't work properly anymore.
My chain was off the scale worn but so is everything else so it all worked perfectly ?
matt_thebeard
Member
thats what im trying now
... and
Why change the second chain before it gets to 0.75? It just looks like an unnecessary change to me? Assuming you all start with Chain 1 of course ... in fact why not just run to 0.75 on Chain 1 every time ? Am I being thick again?
BTW -- given most advice for e-bikes appears to be change at 0.5 , the saving of 1 chain in 3 over the aggregate lifetime just doesn't seem worth the potential damage to cassette , chainring and jockey wheels to me, such is the joy of "Meaning of Life" questions !
Mcharza
E*POWAH BOSS
I agreed, the point of using two chains is precisely that they are changed at regular intervals. This way they wear at the same rate as the cassette or not damage the cassette. I'm changing every 400-500 km
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Im no expert ( obviously) but I can see no reason why cassette (nor chainring) wear would be a linear function of chain wear as opposed to total usage. I shall now shut up -- each to their own!
matt_thebeard
Member
Rusty
E*POWAH BOSS
1350km on the SRAM NX Eagle chain and looking like 1600-1800 will be time to change.
Have a 36 chainring so might throw that on shortly with a new chain and keep the current chain in a bag with the original chain ring.
Surprised at how well it is holding up, but that may be because I am swapping wheelsets regularly and it is not all on 1 set of small sprockets. Bigger chainring should have me using maybe 2 rings bigger on the rear than usual so extending cluster life as well.
Have a 36 chainring so might throw that on shortly with a new chain and keep the current chain in a bag with the original chain ring.
Surprised at how well it is holding up, but that may be because I am swapping wheelsets regularly and it is not all on 1 set of small sprockets. Bigger chainring should have me using maybe 2 rings bigger on the rear than usual so extending cluster life as well.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
AS the chain wears, it wears the gear teeth faster and faster. Conventional advice (probably derived from road bikes) was that 1% wear and the chain was scrap, and probably everything else it had touched. This led to recommending change at 0.75%. I am even more conservative than that, except when the cassette is on what I consider to be on its last legs. There must be loads of stuff on YouTube about the benefits of changing chains at lower and lower % wear and then using old chains again in a leap frog manner. The idea being that because low wear chains cause low wear on the gears, then keep using low-wear chains! But wear does happen, and we know that chains and gears do wear into each other, let them all grow old together. Poor shifting is avoided by avoiding putting together new with old.
But it's one thing to talk about it, it's another to actually do it! You have to keep a careful eye on your chain wear, and the usual chain gauge is not ideal for that.
I installed the new KMC ebike chain today and took it out for a good test run; 20 mi w/3,400' climbing. Happy to report no slippage in any gear. Total mileage on the original KMC chain was approx. 1,810 miles without issue. As I mentioned on my original post, chain wear was between .5 and .75
My 2021 has Shimano 12 sp. I bought replacement cogs 10-12-14-16-18 (cost about 2€ each), so I can replace the worn cogs if needed together with a chain replacement.
The bigger cogs are used rather occasionally since long steep climbs aren’t really ’available’ where I live
The bigger cogs are used rather occasionally since long steep climbs aren’t really ’available’ where I live
matt_thebeard
Member
SO ..... i dont have an ultrasonic wash currently, what are people washing and soaking their "spare " part worn chains in prior to re fitting ?
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OldGoatMTB
E*POWAH Master
I would clean it with my Park chain cleaner before I removed it and lightly oil it, and then store it in a plastic ziplock bag.
I'm currently running 2 chains and swapping between them regularly so they both wear evenly. I'm hoping the 36T on the front will slow the wear down somewhat by spreading it across the cassette a bit more.
Gathering quite a collection of part worn parts now
Gathering quite a collection of part worn parts now
Rusty
E*POWAH BOSS
pampmyride
Active member
Degrease - jam jar & petrol/degreaser. Pls a good shake....
matt_thebeard
Member
that's more achievable thank you
My chain went pop at the weekend, randomly happened when out for a gentle ride with my young children and the drivetrain under no sort of stress on a local path. Got about 1000 miles out of it, I am pretty fanatical about clean degrease lube etc after every ride.
matt_thebeard
Member
i think im 400 miles into my first chain, ive swapped it over for a new one now but the plan is to change them every few hundred miles,. ill let you know what milage i manage before the inevitable, randomly i have just ordered a pack of power links from ebay for my backpack
OldGoatMTB
E*POWAH Master
Degrease after every ride? That sounds detrimental, not to mention a little OCD!
How did the xx1 compare. I found one in shed just presume it will work ok . Before I go and by a different one.
- Thread starter
- #266
It’s the best I’ve found so far, I buy two at a time and change and clean after every ride that way I get maximum life out of the cassettes.
Cheers .
DtEW
Active member
Wore my stock chain (SLX 12s) on the Levo to 0.5%* at 371 miles (597 km).
What I'm going to try this time is to put in a new chain (XT 12s) with intention to wear to 0.5% as well, and intention to do it again with yet another new chain. Once all three chains are worn to 0.5%, the first chain will be put back to wear to 0.75%... and the other two will follow. At that point either the small cogs or the cassette should be toast.
* As measured on a Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II
What I'm going to try this time is to put in a new chain (XT 12s) with intention to wear to 0.5% as well, and intention to do it again with yet another new chain. Once all three chains are worn to 0.5%, the first chain will be put back to wear to 0.75%... and the other two will follow. At that point either the small cogs or the cassette should be toast.
* As measured on a Pedro's Chain Checker Plus II
Canmore TLCC 29
Active member
Thanks in advance for keeping the discussion alive. I have read portions of it when I first joined the group but I am only now taking a deeper dive into the content.
I have had my 2020 Turbo Comp for 16 months now. I ride mostly dry loamy trails that are rocky and root covered from time to time. Not overly dusty and I have ridden in very little mud. I also ride in the winter in with temperatures varying from 0 to -20C. I only clean my chain, chainring, and cassette when they look overly dirty. I only lube occasionally as the chain normally looks pretty good. I have had some hard shifts that concern me about the chain holding up to failure. I took my bike in to the dealer to look at the chain and perform the first free service, that is supposed to be done after 200 hours of riding. The odometer showed 2108 km. The bike shop tech used a gauge similar to the one I recently bought, a Toopre CR01. He said the chain was worn out. His gauge indicated 1% wear, and he said I will need to replace the SRAM PG-1130, 11-speed, 11-42t cassette. As well as the chain of course. (KMC X11ET, 11-speed w/ Missing Link™).
They ordered the a new cassette, and sold me a new SRAM PC X1 11 Speed Chain, 118 links for $41 CAD. When I got home, I used my new chain gauge. What is odd, it indicates less than 0.5% wear! Hmm.
I always use 3M teflon lube on my chains. I have used this lube on all my bikes for over 20 years. I have never replaced a chain.
SO, can you understand that I am having problems understanding what I have been reading? I am guessing that those who clean and lube their chains after every ride are doing so after bathing their drive trains in muddy water, mud or sand. Am I wrong to think that riding in conditions that do not cover your chain in crud will permit the chain to last much longer than what I am reading here? I think I can get another 500 km or more wear on the links based on chain wear, (Stretch). There are chunky bits taken off the sides of the links, but the rollers are still good. IMHO.
I will attach photos of my chain, my chain gauge on the chain and the depth of the wear indicator.
Please let me know if I am doing something wrong.
I have had my 2020 Turbo Comp for 16 months now. I ride mostly dry loamy trails that are rocky and root covered from time to time. Not overly dusty and I have ridden in very little mud. I also ride in the winter in with temperatures varying from 0 to -20C. I only clean my chain, chainring, and cassette when they look overly dirty. I only lube occasionally as the chain normally looks pretty good. I have had some hard shifts that concern me about the chain holding up to failure. I took my bike in to the dealer to look at the chain and perform the first free service, that is supposed to be done after 200 hours of riding. The odometer showed 2108 km. The bike shop tech used a gauge similar to the one I recently bought, a Toopre CR01. He said the chain was worn out. His gauge indicated 1% wear, and he said I will need to replace the SRAM PG-1130, 11-speed, 11-42t cassette. As well as the chain of course. (KMC X11ET, 11-speed w/ Missing Link™).
They ordered the a new cassette, and sold me a new SRAM PC X1 11 Speed Chain, 118 links for $41 CAD. When I got home, I used my new chain gauge. What is odd, it indicates less than 0.5% wear! Hmm.
I always use 3M teflon lube on my chains. I have used this lube on all my bikes for over 20 years. I have never replaced a chain.
SO, can you understand that I am having problems understanding what I have been reading? I am guessing that those who clean and lube their chains after every ride are doing so after bathing their drive trains in muddy water, mud or sand. Am I wrong to think that riding in conditions that do not cover your chain in crud will permit the chain to last much longer than what I am reading here? I think I can get another 500 km or more wear on the links based on chain wear, (Stretch). There are chunky bits taken off the sides of the links, but the rollers are still good. IMHO.
I will attach photos of my chain, my chain gauge on the chain and the depth of the wear indicator.
Please let me know if I am doing something wrong.
RebornRider
Well-known member
I ride on very dusty trails. My chain, frame, sprockets, wheels, everything is coated in tan dust after one ride. If I don't wipe off and relube the chain after every ride, the drive train makes squeaky noises on the next ride. I used to use Triflow, but now I've found that Muc-Off dry lube attracts less dust. I can still see some silver on the chain after a ride.
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