Chain is skipping on the 3 small cogs

[lucacocomazzi]

Hello all.

I only used my ebike around 6 months now, the display on the bike says 245 miles, and the chain skips only on the small cogs, the larger cogs are absolutely fine. On eco mode is not that bad, bit when is trail and boost is pretty bad.
Does it mean I need a new chain?
Or is there anything else I have to change?
I have attached few pictures of the cassette and the front chain ring.

 

[Gary]

You should be able to get a little more life out of your chain/cassette if you:
Back off your B-Tension screw as far as you can without the top jockey making noise in the largest sprocket.
Better still. if you can manage without your lowest gear limit the mech not to shift to it and back off the B-tension screw even more.

Otherwise you need a new cassette AND chain AND chainring.
All 3 are worn. As is your chainring. (wear is clearly visible on your chainring teeth)
New chain will slip under power on old worn small sprockets

 

[lucacocomazzi]

I have never tuned up the gears, I have located the B screw. Which way do I need to turn the screw, clockwise or anti-clockwise? Thanks

 

[Gary]

anti. the jockey wheel will then rise allowing greater chain wrap on the cassette sprockets.

this is only a bandaid fix to eek a few more miles out of your drivetrain BTW

 

[lucacocomazzi]

I know. I will give that a try and see if it improves for few more miles. Do I turn it all the way, or just half/ full turns?

 

[Gary]

If you turn it all the way the top jockey will foul the cassette in the larger sprockets.
Adjust it like I explained in my first reply.

The adjustment is there to allow jockey wheelclearance for dinner plate sized large sprockets.
Stop using the largest ones and you can adjust the jockey wheel closer to the cassette.

 

[steve_sordy]

Order the kit listed by Gary now. By the time it arrives your fix will have expired.

If you are using the small tooth gears a lot then consider getting a larger front ring. That will push the chain onto the larger gears on the cassette where there are more teeth to share the load. lubricate better and more, clean more. Shift with more mechanical sympathy. You will get more out of your kit. I have done almost 1100 miles on the original 11-speed kit and still have only 0.4% "stretch". I still have flawless shifting and no discernible wear on the gear teeth.

 

[lucacocomazzi]

Order the kit listed by Gary now. By the time it arrives your fix will have expired.

If you are using the small tooth gears a lot then consider getting a larger front ring. That will push the chain onto the larger gears on the cassette where there are more teeth to share the load. lubricate better and more, clean more. Shift with more mechanical sympathy. You will get more out of your kit. I have done almost 1100 miles on the original 11-speed kit and still have only 0.4% "stretch". I still have flawless shifting and no discernible wear on the gear teeth.

I find that weird though, I clean the bike every time I get back from a ride, and also lube the chain every time I go out. About the chainring, I was tempted to go for a 36t upfront but then I don't think the chain guide will fit anymore, it is not adjustable in hight, it is fixed.

 

[Gary]

I find that weird though

What do you find weird?
Your entire drivetrain is visibly worn. It needs replacing.

Shimano sell a chain guide to fit the E8000 motor. it's adjustable for 34t or 38t. (it'll work with a 36t ring in the 38t position. But by the looks of it your frame (second pic) doesn't have clearance at the swing arm for a bigger ring anyway.

Is your bike derestricted? or do you just like to spin at slower cadences?
Spinning at a faster cadence would help you stay out of the smaller sprockets a lot more.
Easing off with every gear shift also prolongues chain/sprocket wear.

 

[lucacocomazzi]

What do you find weird?
Your entire drivetrain is visibly worn. It needs replacing.

Shimano sell a chain guide to fit the E8000 motor. it's adjustable for 34t or 38t. (it'll work with a 36t ring in the 38t position.

I just find weird that the drivetrain worn out so quickly, that's all.
My bike comes with this chain guide, if I move it to the other position, will it allow a bigger chain ring?
I currently running Shimano xt, I have a gx 1-click shifter 11 speed, I was thinking to buy a nx 11 speed cassette and gx rear derailleur.. is it a good idea?

 

[Gary]

I currently running Shimano xt, I have a gx 1-click shifter 11 speed, I was thinking to buy a nx 11 speed cassette and gx rear derailleur.. is it a good idea?

No
Buy an SLX cassette, they're cheap and durable
a SRAM 11spd chain
and a new chainring

you don't need a new derrailleur. (unless there's something you're not telling us)
and you don't need a 1-click shifter

 

[lucacocomazzi]

No
Buy an SLX cassette, they're cheap and durable
a SRAM 11spd chain
and a new chainring

you don't need a new derrailleur. (unless there's something you're not telling us)
and you don't need a 1-click shifter

Ok, thanks, I'll go with the SLX.
Nothing wrong with the derailleur, I've always had Sram drivetrain on my previous bikes.
What about the chain ring, buy the same Shimano one I have on now? Are renthal chainring any good?

 

[Gary]

Any 104mm BCD bolt patern ring will be fine.
Narrow wide is better than a standard ring
Renthal are fine. if overpriced.
for a similar price you'll get a genuine shimano steps ring. They're steel so more hardwearing.
I tend to just run cheap alu narrow wide rings (£8) from ebay/ali express and just change them each time I fit a new cassette.

 

[GrahamPaul]

...and also lube the chain every time I go out.

I may be reading too much into this but the implication is that you clean you bike but don't lube the chain until you are about to go out. I thought that best practice was to lube the chain as soon as it is dry and that lubing immediately before riding was not particularly effective as time* is needed for the lube to find it's way into the roller/pin/cheek plate interfaces.

[time* = I'll leave others to give their learned opinons on this, but I always try to give at least a couple of hours because I use wax lube which needs to dry].

 

[lucacocomazzi]

I may be reading too much into this but the implication is that you clean you bike but don't lube the chain until you are about to go out. I thought that best practice was to lube the chain as soon as it is dry and that lubing immediately before riding was not particularly effective as time* is needed for the lube to find it's way into the roller/pin/cheek plate interfaces.

[time* = I'll leave others to give their learned opinons on this, but I always try to give at least a couple of hours because I use wax lube which needs to dry].

I will also take this in consideration, thanks!

 

[gfunkmc]

Mine has just had same symptoms ... Commencal meta , Shimano motor ...
Iv replaced chain, cassette, chainring and even derailer and still getting what feels like slip but only in smallest 2 gears and worse in turbo ...
Also stripped freehub and it's not that so I'm baffled ...
It's now in local bike shop and they are not quite sure what's going on and even started mentioning motor ???

Hello all.

I only used my ebike around 6 months now, the display on the bike says 245 miles, and the chain skips only on the small cogs, the larger cogs are absolutely fine. On eco mode is not that bad, bit when is trail and boost is pretty bad.
Does it mean I need a new chain?
Or is there anything else I have to change?
I have attached few pictures of the cassette and the front chain ring.

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