Cassette life

[Phantomx0_1]

Hi all,

Cassette life. Sram GX eagle.

My Rail 9. I've had it for just over a year. 7 months of that I've not been able to use ot due the Zeb fork being with Sram for repair.

Anyway got the forks back, been out few times since. Bike total miles is 757. Started getting gear issues and realised chain was at just under 0.75ish wear so I've changed the chain. Now I have major slippage in 4 of the gears. The slip feels likes it from the chain ring/ cranks. However I suspect the Cassette is knackered causing the issue as it doesn't do it in all gears.

Everything is is fine running the AXS so it's not a set up indexing issue.

How have your experiences been with chain and Cassette wear? Surely Sram must guarantee a min amount of miles? Most of my miles have been local on green lanes with one Coed y Brenin and a few Afan trips thrown in the mix.

I will proper fit the NX Cassette as its half the price if I can't blag a new one from sram that is.

Thanks.

 

[lightning]

l was getting around 700 miles from my SRAM chain until it reached 0.5 on the chain checker.
The cassette just about took a second chain, then after around 1400 miles l had to replace chain and cassette.

After that l stopped using fancy chain oil and sprayed the chain with GT-85 or similar after every ride.

Since then l've been getting 1500 miles from a chain, l replaced the chain at 1500 miles even though it was still showing around 0.3 on the chain checker and the cassette took a new chain with no issues.

 

[Mikerb]

Hi all,

Cassette life. Sram GX eagle.

My Rail 9. I've had it for just over a year. 7 months of that I've not been able to use ot due the Zeb fork being with Sram for repair.

Anyway got the forks back, been out few times since. Bike total miles is 757. Started getting gear issues and realised chain was at just under 0.75ish wear so I've changed the chain. Now I have major slippage in 4 of the gears. The slip feels likes it from the chain ring/ cranks. However I suspect the Cassette is knackered causing the issue as it doesn't do it in all gears.

Everything is is fine running the AXS so it's not a set up indexing issue.

How have your experiences been with chain and Cassette wear? Surely Sram must guarantee a min amount of miles? Most of my miles have been local on green lanes with one Coed y Brenin and a few Afan trips thrown in the mix.

I will proper fit the NX Cassette as its half the price if I can't blag a new one from sram that is.

Thanks.

You probably ran the original chain too long and have worn the cassette on the gears you use the most. The irony is that if you put the old chain back on, it will probably work fine, and if it does you best bet would be to run that chain on the cassette until it gives problems and then change both the chain and the cassette. ps The GX cassette (XG 1275 10-50 or 10-52) fits on an XD driver whilst the NX ( PG 1230 11-50) fits on a standard HD driver so you can only use the NX by also changing the driver and that depends whether you hub gives you that option.

 

[Phantomx0_1]

You probably ran the original chain too long and have worn the cassette on the gears you use the most. The irony is that if you put the old chain back on, it will probably work fine, and if it does you best bet would be to run that chain on the cassette until it gives problems and then change both the chain and the cassette. ps The GX cassette (XG 1275 10-50 or 10-52) fits on an XD driver whilst the NX ( PG 1230 11-50) fits on a standard HD driver so you can only use the NX by also changing the driver and that depends whether you hub gives you that option.

I can't use the NX just realised that.

Ready a but it seems the XO1 is the way to go as its not pinned together.

Albeit this issue is my fault as I've run the change too long.


However. I've just put the old change back on and now the new issue with the new chain is now happening with hbe old chain.. not as much but it is happening and it wasn't before.....

I'm confused.... never had a issue like this in 25 years + riding MTB

Any ideas

 

[Mikerb]

I can't use the NX just realised that.

Ready a but it seems the XO1 is the way to go as its not pinned together.

Albeit this issue is my fault as I've run the change too long.


However. I've just put the old change back on and now the new issue with the new chain is now happening with hbe old chain.. not as much but it is happening and it wasn't before.....

I'm confused.... never had a issue like this in 25 years + riding MTB

Any ideas

On the basis your original chain and cassette wore together and worked with no issues, you now possibly only need to reset the B tension and cable tension ( indexing).
Not sure why you think changing to X01 is a benefit. It costs at least half as much again as the GX and is still a one piece cassette.....made as one piece as opposed to the GX which becomes one piece by being pinned.

 

[Phantomx0_1]

On the basis your original chain and cassette wore together and worked with no issues, you now possibly only need to reset the B tension and cable tension ( indexing).
Not sure why you think changing to X01 is a benefit. It costs at least half as much again as the GX and is still a one piece cassette.....made as one piece as opposed to the GX which becomes one piece by being pinned.

Just reading peoples experiences of the X01 lasting much longer.. its about £105 more. I'm running AXS so th indexing and B tension is spot on. That and in the 10-52 there are no GX cassette for sale anywhere that in an find. Can't find a 10-50 either.

I've put the old chain back on and that's now starting to skip in some gears when under pressure. So something is knacked I think the whole lot needs replacing. Expensive mistake

 

[lightning]

Maybe try my suggestion when you've fitted the new parts.

Hopefully then you'll get more mileage out of the chain and cassette

 

[Phantomx0_1]

Maybe try my suggestion when you've fitted the new parts.

Hopefully then you'll get more mileage out of the chain and cassette

Gt85 ? I'll have a look. To be honest I think I let the chain go to far. This is on my ebike. ( I ride regular bikes mostly and get loads of life from a chain and cassette). I think chains on ebikes need changing even before the 0.5 mm wear.

 

[lightning]

I have an ebike and have ridden it through winter in the challenging conditions of the Derbyshire Peak District in the U.K.
ln all weathers including snow, rain and almost always water on the trails.
ln fact the path l ride up last night was actually a river.

After using GT-85 (plus a similar product, called MO94 made by Muc-off) my chain lasted 1500 miles and still hadn't reached 0.5 on the gauge.

I am as surprised as anyone because l never saw these lightweight sprays as anything more than protecting against rust and for general cleaning of the bike.

My latest chain has done around 500 miles and l just checked it, 0.25

 

[Phantomx0_1]

I have an ebike and have ridden it through winter in the challenging conditions of the Derbyshire Peak District in the U.K.
ln all weathers including snow, rain and almost always water on the trails.
ln fact the path l ride up last night was actually a river.

After using GT-85 (plus a similar product, called MO94 made by Muc-off) my chain lasted 1500 miles and still hadn't reached 0.5 on the gauge.

I am as surprised as anyone because l never saw these lightweight sprays as anything more than protecting against rust and for general cleaning of the bike.

My latest chain has done around 500 miles and l just checked it, 0.25

I'm gonna do the same! I think some of these lubes create more issues than they solve. I've been using the muc off ebike lubes. Am meticulous with keeping the chain clean etc.

GT85 on order

 

[lightning]

GT-85 or any similar spray

Try it and see how you get on. I spray the chain after every ride, as it goes around the cassette when l turn the pedals

Then wipe off the excess, which will also clean the chain.

Obviously the ebike needs to either be on a track stand or upside down

Don't turn it upside down if you've just got back from a wet or muddy ride!! Water may get into the motor

 

[lightning]

This is beginning to look like an advert for GT-85

On the next chain l am going to try WD-40 and see how that goes.

 

[Mikerb]

Just reading peoples experiences of the X01 lasting much longer.. its about £105 more. I'm running AXS so th indexing and B tension is spot on. That and in the 10-52 there are no GX cassette for sale anywhere that in an find. Can't find a 10-50 either.

I've put the old chain back on and that's now starting to skip in some gears when under pressure. So something is knacked I think the whole lot needs replacing. Expensive mistake

just bought a 10-52 xg1275 from Bikester.

 

[Phantomx0_1]

just bought a 10-52 xg1275 from Bikester.

I'm going NX

From Sram

"Unlike the other Eagle cassettes though, SRAM claims the PG-1230 has been designed to withstand the rigours of e-MTB use, so it’s likely we’ll see NX Eagle feature heavily across the e-bike market in the near future having relationships"

63 quid on sale bought 4! Will be chaining everything so all fresh and make sure I keep an eye on chain wear this time!!!

 

[Mikerb]

I'm going NX

From Sram

"Unlike the other Eagle cassettes though, SRAM claims the PG-1230 has been designed to withstand the rigours of e-MTB use, so it’s likely we’ll see NX Eagle feature heavily across the e-bike market in the near future having relationships"

63 quid on sale bought 4! Will be chaining everything so all fresh and make sure I keep an eye on chain wear this time!!!

new rear wheel or can the Bontrager hub be modified with 3/4 pawl HG freehub??

 

[Phantomx0_1]

new rear wheel or can the Bontrager hub be modified with 3/4 pawl HG freehub??

Just change the freehub to a HG one. Easy swap. 90 quid for that but it's done and I will use the NX cassettes from now on. Spoke to a chap on a ride today on a Spec e bike and he's had 3200 miles out of his NX and it still looked in good shape. Regular chains. Uses the NX chain as well.

 

[Gary]

never had a issue like this in 25 years + riding MTB

I'd bet during those 25+ years you didn't ride around in the top gears anywhere near as much as you have since owning a bike with motor assistance though.
And you most certainly didn't have super wide cassettes with poor chainwrap or silly little 10t quick wearing sprockets for the vast majority of those years.
I'd also bet you shifted gear under load less with your normal mtbs.

I actually get far longer life from my Emtb cassettes now than I do from my normal mtb cassettes as I use closer ratio cassettes on my Emtb. Currently at somewhere around 5000 miles with one cassette and chain (worn to 1.5% and not yet slipping)

GT85/WD40 isn't the answer to longer drivetrain life. Looking after your whole drivetrain, keeping it clean and not over lubing is. GT/WD being cleanoing products just happen to follow that ethos. But they don't do so well at keeping your chain properly lubricated for longer rides in properly wet climates

 

[Phantomx0_1]

I'd bet during those 25+ years you didn't ride around in the top gears anywhere near as much as you have since owning a bike with motor assistance though.
And you most certainly didn't have super wide cassettes with poor chainwrap or silly little 10t quick wearing sprockets for the vast majority of those years.
I'd also bet you shifted gear under load less with your normal mtbs.

I actually get far longer life from my Emtb cassettes now than I do from my normal mtb cassettes as I use closer ratio cassettes on my Emtb. Currently at somewhere around 5000 miles with one cassette and chain (worn to 1.5% and not yet slipping)

GT85/WD40 isn't the answer to longer drivetrain life. Looking after your whole drivetrain, keeping it clean and not over lubing is. GT/WD being cleanoing products just happen to follow that ethos. But they don't do so well at keeping your chain properly lubricated for longer rides in properly wet climates

You're right. Looking at the wear on my cassette I'm about to bin I definitely need to re learn to use my gears rather than letting the motor do the work by switch modes. That said my fitness on the ebike is impressive and I'm definitely out longer.

What lube do you use? I've been iaomg the mucoff off ebike stuff as I was given it. I used to use squirt lube.

This cock up is on me I let the chain wear far to much! Lesson learnt. My cleaning is meticulous after every ride. Everything is clean. Just need to keep an eye on chain wear as it's gone alot quicker than I expected!!!

 

[lightning]

GT85/WD40 isn't the answer to longer drivetrain life. Looking after your whole drivetrain, keeping it clean and not over lubing is. GT/WD being cleanoing products just happen to follow that ethos. But they don't do so well at keeping your chain properly lubricated for longer rides in properly wet climates
[/QUOTE]


My experience has shown the opposite. After religiously oiling and cleaning my chain with all manner of posh lubricants, l was struggling to get 700 miles from a chain and every other chain needed a new cassette

Since using GT85 type sprays instead, my chain life has tripled and l haven't changed the cassette once.

The drivetrain stays clean, because the crap doesn't stick to the chain.

And l ride the Peak District in Winter which is some of the worst riding conditions in the U.K.
l just got back from a ride and the bike was covered in mud and crap, l had to wash it with a hose before the missus would let me bring it in the house.

 

[Gary]

I didn't say anything about needing to use a posh chain lube.
This...

The drivetrain stays clean, because the crap doesn't stick to the chain.

and this

l just got back from a ride and the bike was covered in mud and crap, l had to wash it with a hose before the missus would let me bring it in the house.

Hint towards our definition of a wet/muddy ride possibly being slightly different.

This was my kit after just a short ride this weekend (3 climbs, 3 descents) with mudguards on the bike


it's sped up 8X faster BTW

Personally I need something that will actually last the entirety of a decent length genuinely wet/muddy ride. Which GT85/WD40 won't. infact it won't even last my there and back road commute in heavy rain (I commute all year round). A cheap light, wet lube such as finishline or Muc-Off or even weldtite is enough to stay put long enough but thin enough that it won't attract a shit load of debris. Dry lubes just become a paste in UK mud and thicker as you've realised stickier/thicker wet lubes attract too much mud/Debris
The real game changer to longer life and less shit sticking to your drivetrain isn't the "exact" lube you use but HOW you apply it. applying lightly to a clean chain and then REMOVING all excess lube. AFTER your ride. NOT just before the next one.
IME Most people over lube their chains! and many continue adding lube to an already gunked up drivetrain.

GT85/WD40 breaks down grease including the internal lube in your chains rollers/pins)
GT85/WD40 evaporate over time and dry out moving parts
GT85/WD40 also washes off with (enough) plain water.
but if these products suit your rides and genuinely last the whole ride in the conditions you ride in by all means keep using them. I just wouldn't be so keen to tell everyone else they'll be the best option for them too.

Lots of expensive lubes are terrible and Ebike specific chain lube is just hilarious!
FWIW. for many years I used 60p bottles of ASDA or TESCO multi lube watered down to a slighty thinner less sticky consistency by adding GT85. with great results when applied to a clean chain and removing any excess
I've always gotten way more mileage out of chains and cassettes than all of my mates. But go through BBs massively more quickly than they do.

 

[lightning]

I guess different products work for different types of riding.
I always used to laugh when my mate sprayed his chain with GT-85.
But it works for the type of riding that l do. For me, oil just made the drivetrain and jocky wheels black with gunge

My chain lasts a ride with the lightweight spray type lubricant.

Yours obviously doesn't. l admit l would feel happier using "proper" chain oil but it doesn't work for me.

 

[Gary]

For me, oil just made the drivetrain and jocky wheels black with gunge

Yeah. with oil based lubes gunge will build up if you don't thouroughly clean the drivetrain between applications or just keep running it in muddy conditions without cleaning.
some of the more expensive bike chain lubes are absolutely terrible for the sort of build up you've experienced.

GT85/WD40 does admirably well on a roadbike and I'd definitely use it in a pinch if nothing else was available. Or if the only alternative was something terrible like Peaty's gunk attracting ironically toothpaste flavoured chain lube.

 

[Mikerb]

I guess different products work for different types of riding.
I always used to laugh when my mate sprayed his chain with GT-85.
But it works for the type of riding that l do. For me, oil just made the drivetrain and jocky wheels black with gunge

My chain lasts a ride with the lightweight spray type lubricant.

Yours obviously doesn't. l admit l would feel happier using "proper" chain oil but it doesn't work for me.

if you use wet lube and end up with a black chain it is because you have applied too much oil and not wiped the chain clean enough afterwards. All you are trying to do is get some lube between the rollers and pins so you should end up with no excess oil on the surface of the chain.

 

[Flatslide]

Am admittedly using Shimano equipment: 10 speed deore cassette, 10 speed hg chain and a cheap $25 chain ring from Aliexpress.
Current cassette done 4500km and is on its fourth chain. Chains last me 1000km+. I don't fluff about swapping chains until they hit 0.75mm.
I use Rock n Roll Holy Cow lube which needs to be applied the night before, although using a hair dryer or paint stripper to warm the chain speeds the set-up process.
I seldom ride in UK style 6 inch deep mud and slop. We have it, I just don't ride it much and I never ride in the small cogs in anything other than Eco mode. If I wanted to fly up the forest roads at 20mph I'd get a 2 stroke dirt bike.

 

[lightning]

At least parts are now available, last time l
needed a cassette l had to buy one from the USA.

 

[BassNut]

For what it’s worth, I’ve used GT85 from day one in my turbo Levo comp. Apart from replacing front chainring after 200 miles,(put a 36t on to replace the 32) I’ve done over 2000 yes 2000 miles on same chain and cassette. Bloke at LBS is impressed. Maybe cos I really only ride flat trails here in Norfolk but it’s still good going. Won’t use anything other than GT85.

 

[Mikerb]

Lubricating a chain is really not a difficult job for any pretty basic oil....my mate uses good old 3 in 1 and gets great mileage from chain and cassette. It just needs to be thin enough to drain into the part that counts (inside the rollers), have reasonable adhesion, and be waterproof. It does not have to deal with heat or chemical contaminants.

 

[1oldfart]

The most frequent solutions for transmission are rarely mentioned.
Loose weight and or learn to shift.
3 chains is normal before a cassette needs replacement.
Obviously, hills, your weight and your skills can improve or shorten chain life.
On my Ebike i have no problem on a 10S 11/46, plenty of range and long lasting.

 

[greengenes]

GT85/WD-40 won't protect or lubricate a chain properly. Forget wet lubes and dry lubes; they only serve to attract mud and grit which are the main causes of chain /transmission wear. Ive tried them all. Wax based lube (I use Squirt) IMO is the ONLY product that actually works (look at the research on Youtube etc). The chain always stays clean and lubricated. Just be sure to follow set up procedure correctly. You will never go back to any other lube product. And stay out of top gear.

 

[lightning]

GT-85 (or similar) works for me!! 1500 miles from a chain and still no need to replace it. Cassette still fine.

So it must be doing SOME good to the drivetrain.

As above l guess what works best depends on the type of riding that you do.