Buckled discs.

[Supratad]

I seem to have a lot of trouble with warped discs but it’s only after washing and cleaning. When riding, I get no such tings and scrapes, but put the cleaned and degreased wheels back in and it’s always buckled.

pliers ahoy, but in the mood for tinkering, I fashioned an axle mount for my dial gauge so I could see which way it bends.

Bit of tube from an old printer, happens to exactly fit a Maxle and with a bit of internal reaming, pardon me missus, fits the stand of my gauge.

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

If you get a decent answer ill be interested to know. I warp discs constantly.

 

[Bpietro]

Same, just ordered disks about 30 minutes ago. This time a branch got me tho

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

Isn’t this why TRP went to their 2.3mm disks? Those center lines are 1.8mm.

Everyone who’s tried my TRPs says they’re making the switch.

I guess that would make them less prone to warping. mine just warp from overheating, so many big fast stops on my regular ride and some bigger ones when I get out to the beacons.

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

I’d bet if they’re super hot and you hit a puddle that’s an easy way to guarantee warped disks. I have my centerline disks blued from heat and they’re perfect. But that was a dry day. Something I think y’all don’t see much. View attachment 60208

cant get them in 200mm

 

[Mikerb]

I seem to have a lot of trouble with warped discs but it’s only after washing and cleaning. When riding, I get no such tings and scrapes, but put the cleaned and degreased wheels back in and it’s always buckled.

pliers ahoy, but in the mood for tinkering, I fashioned an axle mount for my dial gauge so I could see which way it bends.

Bit of tube from an old printer, happens to exactly fit a Maxle and with a bit of internal reaming, pardon me missus, fits the stand of my gauge.

I can see no way the disc would warp just because the wheel has been taken out for cleaning. The disc is of course vulnerable when not mounted in the bike but I assume you are careful not to lean it against anything etc.
What is possible I think is the wheel going slightly out of alignment if you use hot water to clean it and the spoke tension is not as it should be. That would change the orientation of the hub and then of course the disc would not be centred in the caliper.

 

[Supratad]

It is weird, but I don't use hot water at all.
I remember from track day driving that after a session, one shouldn't sit on the brakes as it keeps that part of a disc hot while the rest cool. Could happen, I suppose after a long DH, that one might stop and keep a brake on to hold the bike.
However, as said, the end of ride pootle about doesn't produce any noise from the discs.

 

[MrSimmo]

If you get a decent answer ill be interested to know. I warp discs constantly.

I’ve seen quite a few warped one piece rotors, mainly due to rapid heating/cooling (only seems to have happened to me after dragging the brake and then hitting a puddle etc). Swapped to two piece rotors (Hope floating 2 piece or Magura MDR-P’s) and haven’t seen any warping since ?

There is a decent article somewhere on Hopes website that talks about warping but stuffed if I can find it…

 

[urastus]

the wheel going slightly out of alignment if you use hot water to clean it and the spoke tension is not as it should be. That would change the orientation of the hub and then of course the disc would not be centred in the caliper.

I'm not sure I understand what you're explaining here. I don't think wheel alignment, spokes etc will effect your disc alignment. Spoke tensions effect the rim alignment, not the hub.

It is possible that the pads have closed in a bit while the wheel is out - lever gets bumped and there is no disc to stop pad movement further in, then they don't return to where they used to. A tiny wobble that wasn't noticeable previously would then make noise. Also possible that the caliper gets moved a bit - it doesn't take much when the wheel isn't in.

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

I’ve seen quite a few warped one piece rotors, mainly due to rapid heating/cooling (only seems to have happened to me after dragging the brake and then hitting a puddle etc). Swapped to two piece rotors (Hope floating 2 piece or Magura MDR-P’s) and haven’t seen any warping since ?

There is a decent article somewhere on Hopes website that talks about warping but stuffed if I can find it…

yea I looked at putting hope discs on my bike cos its a good cheap solution but after a bit of research it seems the bobbins hit the calipers - I have guide RE brakes

 

[Supratad]

It is possible that the pads have closed in a bit while the wheel is out - lever gets bumped and there is no disc to stop pad movement further in, then they don't return to where they used to. A tiny wobble that wasn't noticeable previously would then make noise. Also possible that the caliper gets moved a bit - it doesn't take much when the wheel isn't in.

That does sound most plausible

 

[Gary]

Baffles me why folk hold Hope rotors in such high regard.
Their one piece steel rotors are massively overpriced and no less prone to bending than other manufacturers rotors, early hope rotor patterns all cracked due to poor machining design. Their floating rotors are also prone to bending and all develop play with use.

Awesome!

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

Baffles me why folk hold Hope rotors in such high regard.
Their one piece steel rotors are massively overpriced and no less prone to bending than other manufacturers rotors, early hope rotor patterns all cracked due to poor machining design. Their floating rotors are also prone to bending and all develop play with use.

Awesome!

personally I dont give a monkies whats on there, as long as it doesnt warp, got any recommendations for my 2020 levo ?

 

[Gary]

Whatever's available at a decent price

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

Whatever's available at a decent price

going on that advice ill end up with what I already have

 

[MrSimmo]

personally I dont give a monkies whats on there, as long as it doesnt warp, got any recommendations for my 2020 levo ?

Give MDR-P’s or Galfer Disc Wave Floating a try ?

 

[Gary]

You may as well give setting light to £20 notes a try...

 

[dobbyhasfriends]

You may as well give setting light to £20 notes a try...

for a guy that works in a bikeshop, I thought you may have a better suggestion

 

[Mikerb]

How is this ever going to happen ??

1 How hot would you have to be washing your wheels to alter spoke tension for one
2 How if that even happened would it alter the hub and disc alignment in relation to the fork and caliper

Genuinely want to know your thoughts behind this .

The disc is bolted or threaded directly onto the hub. Whether the wheel is bolted into the fork or removed the disc touches nothing else and is still just fixed to the hub. If the wheel is being removed for cleaning, the disc has presumably had plenty of time to cool down from the last ride. There is therefore no difference in the environment for the disc that would then cause it to warp. The only component that has had a change of environment is the hub. When fixed in the fork it is held at a fixed angle to the fork lowers by the through axle...........when removed it no longer has that fixing. It just seemed to me that the component most likely to slightly change is the one that experiences a change of environment when the wheel is removed..........and that is the hub which goes from being held in the fork lowers to being released. Its just an idea!!

 

[Gyre]

Isn’t this why TRP went to their 2.3mm disks? Those center lines are 1.8mm.

Everyone who’s tried my TRPs says they’re making the switch.

My 2.3's have been happy to warp a bit as well. I'm trying out 2.0 MDR-P's on the theory that two-piece rotors should be a little more resistant to warping.

 

[urastus]

for a guy that works in a bikeshop, I thought you may have a better suggestion

I imagine he is saying how he believes it is - throwing money at stuff isn't always the answer. I kind of find it refreshing ; but I'm guessing of course.

I started riding a huge descent (have to climb it first). Brakes would start screaming half way down. I've still got resin pads. It has really made me focus on short hard brake grabs; grab - release, grab - release. It also makes me focus on picking my braking spots; somewhere smooth then light over the rough stuff. I'm trying to get some air through the calipers more regularly . I used to have to straighten the rotor quite regularly - then I got rid of the shitty sandwich icetech rotor. I've replaced it with a fairly cheap stainless one - all good since then. I've also ordered some semi metallic pads for when the resin ones are gone.

I find if I do well on the braking, I get to the bottom with quiet brakes.

 

[urastus]

It just seemed to me that the component most likely to slightly change is the one that experiences a change of environment when the wheel is removed..........and that is the hub which goes from being held in the fork lowers to being released. Its just an idea!!

and a good idea, but the hub is pretty tough wherever it is. With the wheel out of the bike (either end) the disc and caliper are exposed and not that robust when separated. Both are reasonably protected with the wheels in place.