BT -E8010 POWER CONNECTOR CRACK.

[Cyclopath1000]

I have 2 batts. Haven't used the original in months. Took it out on a moderately gnarly Sedona trail and kept flickering off and also the dreaded W013. examined it to find the negative terminal cracked and one half the copper is gone.
I'm wondering if the ball of aluminum foil is my only option. I'm under the impression that Shimano doesn't really fix things or sell parts to do so. Am I wrong.

One picture ( last I hope ) is what the unbroken battery looks like.

 

[fuikatasio]

I have 2 batts. Haven't used the original in months. Took it out on a moderately gnarly Sedona trail and kept flickering off and also the dreaded W013. examined it to find the negative terminal cracked and one half the copper is gone.
I'm wondering if the ball of aluminum foil is my only option. I'm under the impression that Shimano doesn't really fix things or sell parts to do so. Am I wrong. View attachment 76760 View attachment 76761 View attachment 76762

One picture ( last I hope ) is what the unbroken battery looks like.

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[Cyclopath1000]

Wow !! But then it's dedicated to that one batt. I have 2 batts, one without damage one with. But I do see the logic if it is reliable. What exactly is the broken input that I posted. Is it a negative. I tried a multimeter but couldn't get a DC reading. What are the two little center leads vs the two larger leads. Can you explain what each of the four does. The one batt rebuilder in socal says they don't have access to any Shimano parts.

 

[fuikatasio]

I had many problems with this connector error e010.

In aliexpress buy this connector 0.59￡ 15% de DESCUENTO|Conector de alta corriente chapado en oro, adaptador de D SUB de 5 + 2 clavijas, Pin mecanizado, cable de Flash dorado completo, 7W2 30A, 1 ud.|Conectores| - AliExpress

They are really two AW14 large section wires and two thin wires (communication wires).

The plastic battery box and the battery-motor cable must be removed. And then match the 4 wires.

It requires additional work on the docking tray box so that the new connectors can be moved, but after doing this, the dreaded e010 error no longer appeared. It would be necessary to protect the connection in some way so that moisture does not enter the new connection, this can be achieved with a couple of turns of very fine plastic

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Seeing you have been in there, and that only the large negative port is cracked and missing the copper pickups, would you think it's safe to shove a wad of aluminum foil blindly into only that one pickup to try and obtain connectivity or is there stuff behind that plug that warms one not to create a short circuit in there ?

 

[fuikatasio]

Placing aluminum foil in these types of connections is useless at all. Aluminum is so soft that it does not hold strongly. The shimano electrical connections have caused me so many problems, as well as the adjustment of the battery, that I finally opted to change the connections of my two batteries. Since then not a single problem. The battery now does not need to be fine tuned.
My solution seems very radical, but it is being effective.
I am lucky to have completely disassembled my bt8010 battery

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Now I'm starting to understand your motivations. It's obvious to me that this connector is going to fail. I just ordered a third battery ( $616 yikes) and if I keep this bike , which I love , and which I have yet to see anything significantly superior, I can see evolving into your fix. I would even contemplate doing your solution to all three batteries. Are you done kind of electronics wizard or can any lugnut figure this out ?

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Plus where do you get a torz wrench with the center hollowed out

 

[fuikatasio]

Now I'm starting to understand your motivations. It's obvious to me that this connector is going to fail. I just ordered a third battery ( $616 yikes) and if I keep this bike , which I love , and which I have yet to see anything significantly superior, I can see evolving into your fix. I would even contemplate doing your solution to all three batteries. Are you done kind of electronics wizard or can any lugnut figure this out ?

If you have knowledge of soldering with tin you can do it yourself, if you do not have it, it is better to have someone help you than if you know this topic. The connector can be bought in AliExpress for a super cheap price, nothing to do with the replacement that Shimano sells you, as long as it is the connection tray, there is no replacement for the battery connector

 

[fuikatasio]

Plus where do you get a torz wrench with the center hollowed out

That torx key can be bought easily, it is called security torx

 

[fuikatasio]

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[Cyclopath1000]

So this rediculous squared. This plug could be changed correctly at any iPhone fixit shop or even by me if and only if Shimano bothered to support their stuff. This is a $10 part.

 

[fuikatasio]

Indeed it is ridiculous, but shimano does not offer you any spare parts. I had it very clear, and more now that I have found this AS150U connector that is better protected from moisture. You can be sure that this new connector will not break again, it is much more robust, and you do not have to adjust the battery precisely.

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Your solution is radical but reasonable. I sent a repair request to Shimano warrenty and expect it to be turned down.

I'm curious if other brands such as Bosch have these kinds of issues. I was going to stick with shamomif I ever bought a.sexond ebike but now I'm wondering if that's a wise choice.

The third battery is getting prepared for shipping. If I can get another 2-3 years out of my current bike without another expensive purchase I might be able to justify 300/year for battery replacement. I also expect this connector issue to become a.real.shimano headache as in all these batteries fail at the connector so they might have to offer a solution.

 

[Cyclopath1000]

fyi: as expected shimano blew me off. not willing, caring to, etc,etc to help me out. all i wanted was to purchase the part. why should they give a hoot.

 

[ArcticBiker]

I have 2 batts. Haven't used the original in months. Took it out on a moderately gnarly Sedona trail and kept flickering off and also the dreaded W013. examined it to find the negative terminal cracked and one half the copper is gone.
I'm wondering if the ball of aluminum foil is my only option. I'm under the impression that Shimano doesn't really fix things or sell parts to do so. Am I wrong. View attachment 76760 View attachment 76761 View attachment 76762

One picture ( last I hope ) is what the unbroken battery looks like.

I had the same issue.

My solution was to repair the connector.

I milled a hole through the connector with a dremel and inserted a thin brass plate (self made connector plate) and soldered a bridge over to the negative cable connector - then I used some silicone filler to make it somewhat water proof.

Be really careful around the cable connectors, they're really brittle and can snap off really easy.

I don't have any pictures and I really don't want to tear the battery apart again

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Can you snap a picture of the outside of the connector after your fabrication? What you did is exactly what I was contemplating to do.

 

[Spiff]

Yes a picture of the battery connector from outside that shows where you did the milling would help.

 

[ArcticBiker]

Can you snap a picture of the outside of the connector after your fabrication? What you did is exactly what I was contemplating to do.

I did the milling from inside out, there's a thin layer of resin on top of the connectorplate which is pretty easy to get through with a dremel and a milling bit. The brass plate is bent double to make a snug fit for the connector.

 

[Cyclopath1000]

As I recall the plate behind the neg electrode was blocking access from the rear.

 

[ArcticBiker]

As I recall the plate behind the neg electrode was blocking access from the rear.

Well, I got past it and my fix works.
You drill outside the plate, on the other hand - it's only copper so you can mill a bit off it too. Since the tounge in the connector is busted you may replace it anyway.

 

[Cyclopath1000]

Does the plate behind also carry a negative charge or is it isolated from the brass?

 

[ArcticBiker]

Does the plate behind also carry a negative charge or is it isolated from the brass?

I really don't remember but I belive the plate is split (one for positive and one for negative) but I'd use a tester to double check that - I bridged my replacement tounge directly to the negative pole.