Broken Motor Cover (Not Battery Guard)

[gmurad]

Hey guys,

It's me again. I'm sorry I only post when I have problems with my Levo...
I snapped my motor cover pretty bad and have 2 questions:

- Does anyone have a link to the very latest version of the motor cover? I'm worried about buying something that is not the latest version and might not have the latest waterproofing methods. (e.g.: https://www.amaincycling.com/specialized-levo-fsr-motor-cover-kit-s194200013/p864843 )
- Any ideas on how to repair this broken cover before I replace with a new one?
- Do I need to drop the entire motor (e.g.: Remove rear linkage) or can the cover be replaced without that?

 

[#lazy]

Duck tape ?

 

[Riprocken]

Man that's ridiculous. But not surprising since it is the same cheap brittle plastic they specd for the battery plate. I don't understand why they couldn't use 10 dollar high density plastic instead of 2 dollar brittle stuff. Sorry no help on number just wanted chime in cause it's the same issue as battery plate really. They should both be a better made part.

 

[gmurad]

Yeah, it's really brittle plastic. I was amazed at how little impact it took to break it. A lot of these e-mtbs share the same parts (shimano, SRAM, Fox, etc) so you would hope that for the premium we pay for Specialized we would get higher quality on the parts that are more unique to the Levos.

 

[gmurad]

@Specialized Rider Care Are you able to confirm what's the latest part number of the motor cover? Thanks.

 

[gmurad]

Also, anyone knows if it's possible to replace the cover without dropping the motor? It seems that after removing the cranks, chain ring and etc it can be removed without removing the motor completely (which requires messing a bit with the rear triangle connection).

 

[wepn]

My chain guide snapped off on my Kenevo breaking the ridiculously minute & brittle bridge in the cut-out section. Fortunately I could still reinstall the chain guide but really demonstrated how poorly designed & how badly specced the plastic is. Hope you get a replacement quickly.

 

[Specialized Rider Care]

Also, anyone knows if it's possible to replace the cover without dropping the motor? It seems that after removing the cranks, chain ring and etc it can be removed without removing the motor completely (which requires messing a bit with the rear triangle connection).

Hi @gmurad - We rarely see these motor covers broken like this but the part you mention in the above link - S194200013 - is indeed the correct (and latest) one. Sorry to see the damage though, how did it happen?

Being honest, it's a tough job for a rider to replace the full cover. The motor needs to be fully disconnected and removed, you'll need a special puller tool to remove the spider from the motor and a torque-wrench to put everything back together again afterwards. Also important is to put the dropper post cable back around the motor shadow-loop adapter again when you refit. Unless you are 100% confident doing this yourself we'd advise asking your retailer to do this work.

There is a retailer video available for the motor removal process - this will give you an idea of whether it's something you're comfortable with.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Thanks @Specialized Rider Care for still being there to hold our hands in these difficult times.

@gmurad if you're totally screwed and can't get to any Spesh stores at the moment then @#lazy suggestion of duct tape might at least make the area more secure from crap getting in. You could tape the pieces together on the inside before putting them in place and taping the outside to make a sandwich. There's also quite a few net suggestions on fixing kayak's temporarily with duct tape/gorilla tape.

You could further protect the area with a bit of old tyre glue'd/double sided taped over the injury .. (but not getting crap on the good bits and maintaining the vent/drain hole.) Your ambient Toronto temperatures are low, so the extra insulation shouldn't create any issues.

What a bodge !

 

[gmurad]

Hi @gmurad - We rarely see these motor covers broken like this but the part you mention in the above link - S194200013 - is indeed the correct (and latest) one. Sorry to see the damage though, how did it happen?

Being honest, it's a tough job for a rider to replace the full cover. The motor needs to be fully disconnected and removed, you'll need a special puller tool to remove the spider from the motor and a torque-wrench to put everything back together again afterwards. Also important is to put the dropper post cable back around the motor shadow-loop adapter again when you refit. Unless you are 100% confident doing this yourself we'd advise asking your retailer to do this work.

There is a retailer video available for the motor removal process - this will give you an idea of whether it's something you're comfortable with.

Thanks for the reply! I have all the tools needed including 2 different torque wrenches for the lower and higher torque specs and the BBT-18 bracket tool to remove the castle nut. Only exception is that pulley/chainring puller tool.

Taking a look at the video you shared, my bike and the cover part from the website I don't see why the entire motor has to be removed to change the cover. It looks like both sides of the cover will come out after removing the cranks, the chainring, and the 2 pairs of bolts on the ends of the bigger side of the cover (connected to the metal pieces). Am I missing something?

Regarding how it happened, I wish there was a cool story behind it but truthfully it happened under very ordinary circumstances, I was just climbing an object and hit it. The motor plastic sticks out further than the chaining so it's bound to happen. I will likely make an aluminum guard to protect that area.

 

[Riprocken]

ll likely make an aluminum guard to protect that area.

Any time you add a metal guard you're going to transfer more force to the mounting points. I thought about getting a local machine shop to fab me a replacement for the battery plate from alum. But then I'll just end up breaking the battery bottom through bolt area or damaging the frame at the top bolt..

The best scenario would be Specialized making parts from better plastic on 2021 model and making sure it fits 19-20 for a replacement that is not so brittle for us 19-20 owners. Or if you know anyone that does carbon fiber molding. You could have them make a mold from a stock part. Since I have a feeling we are stuck with these brittle parts.

 

[gmurad]

Any time you add a metal guard you're going to transfer more force to the mounting points. I thought about getting a local machine shop to fab me a replacement for the battery plate from alum. But then I'll just end up breaking the battery bottom through bolt area or damaging the frame at the top bolt..

The best scenario would be Specialized making parts from better plastic on 2021 model and making sure it fits 19-20 for a replacement that is not so brittle for us 19-20 owners. Or if you know anyone that does carbon fiber molding. You could have them make a mold from a stock part. Since I have a feeling we are stuck with these brittle parts.

I wouldn't use the bolts to attached it, I would probably make a long continuous plate that protects part of the downtube/battery all the way to the underside of the motor. The way I would attach it would be with an industrial strength velcro under the motor and a "velcro tie" around the downtube on the other end.

 

[Chris6]

I wouldn't use the bolts to attached it, I would probably make a long continuous plate that protects part of the downtube/battery all the way to the underside of the motor. The way I would attach it would be with an industrial strength velcro under the motor and a "velcro tie" around the downtube on the other end.

Expensive as it is the Amygos guard really protects all this area very well & will take serious hits .As a bonus it covers the charge point & protects from water ingress. ( no conection with supplier) Best thing I’ve added to my bike

 

[lumpy]

Thanks for the reply! I have all the tools needed including 2 different torque wrenches for the lower and higher torque specs and the BBT-18 bracket tool to remove the castle nut. Only exception is that pulley/chainring puller tool.

Taking a look at the video you shared, my bike and the cover part from the website I don't see why the entire motor has to be removed to change the cover. It looks like both sides of the cover will come out after removing the cranks, the chainring, and the 2 pairs of bolts on the ends of the bigger side of the cover (connected to the metal pieces). Am I missing something?

Regarding how it happened, I wish there was a cool story behind it but truthfully it happened under very ordinary circumstances, I was just climbing an object and hit it. The motor plastic sticks out further than the chaining so it's bound to happen. I will likely make an aluminum guard to protect that area.

I changed mine from the first version with 3 bolts to the 2nd version with 4 bolts. Just pull both crank arms off and it's easy. Be sure to stick the foam bit in the back where the two bolts go and you're good to go

 

[peterk]

Any time you add a metal guard you're going to transfer more force to the mounting points. I thought about getting a local machine shop to fab me a replacement for the battery plate from alum. But then I'll just end up breaking the battery bottom through bolt area or damaging the frame at the top bolt..

The best scenario would be Specialized making parts from better plastic on 2021 model and making sure it fits 19-20 for a replacement that is not so brittle for us 19-20 owners. Or if you know anyone that does carbon fiber molding. You could have them make a mold from a stock part. Since I have a feeling we are stuck with these brittle parts.

I broke the motor guard on my Giant Stance in the first 2 km of trail use. I ended up using a piece of ABS plastic heated and bent to proper shape and JB Weld'ed and riveted to the original guard. Being in lock down. I haven't tested it yet. Giant must use the same brittle plastic as Specialized.

 

[gmurad]

I changed mine from the first version with 3 bolts to the 2nd version with 4 bolts. Just pull both crank arms off and it's easy. Be sure to stick the foam bit in the back where the two bolts go and you're good to go

Thanks for confirming this. Exactly what I was hoping for.