Exactly. By wearing a helmet I minimise the chances of injury whilst riding outside of my limits which is part of the fun in MTB-ing for me and perfectly sensible. If you like to ride within yours all but 6 times in 200.....good on you.
Braking technique question
- Thread starter JoeBlow
- Start date
Exactly. By wearing a helmet I minimise the chances of injury whilst riding outside of my limits which is part of the fun in MTB-ing for me and perfectly sensible. If you like to ride within yours all but 6 times in 200.....good on you.
JackieA
Member
I am still riding at 77 though during Covid been riding solo and staying within my limits as A&E departments are to be avoided.
Using disc brakes as a drag brake only overheats the pads - set my rear brake On the mtb tandem on fire once on a long technical descent. The idea is to brake enough before obstacles and then let the bike run. Look far enough ahead to pick your line - ie look where you want the bike to go and not at the trees, rocks etc. Let the wheels roll and the bike will help you.
Been riding a long time with various brake systems and honestly have no idea of my hand position . Twenty plus years as a cycle shop retailer/ mechanic led me to believe that replacing worn pads was preferable to bleeding by owners - how frequently do you get your car’s brakes bled?
I always wear a helmet and have destroyed two the first trying miserably to avoid a car door being opened and the second tripping over a roof after demounting the tandem. Have had mtb injuries, mainly cracked ribs from riding too slowly and stalling and once broke my shoulder when descending a course that had a thin layer of mud over hard ground during a National X/C race. Because I couldn’t ride for months I had to push myself to relax on downhills.
My advice would be to increase your speed by around 5 mph and get used to the bike rolling over bumps.
Using disc brakes as a drag brake only overheats the pads - set my rear brake On the mtb tandem on fire once on a long technical descent. The idea is to brake enough before obstacles and then let the bike run. Look far enough ahead to pick your line - ie look where you want the bike to go and not at the trees, rocks etc. Let the wheels roll and the bike will help you.
Been riding a long time with various brake systems and honestly have no idea of my hand position . Twenty plus years as a cycle shop retailer/ mechanic led me to believe that replacing worn pads was preferable to bleeding by owners - how frequently do you get your car’s brakes bled?
I always wear a helmet and have destroyed two the first trying miserably to avoid a car door being opened and the second tripping over a roof after demounting the tandem. Have had mtb injuries, mainly cracked ribs from riding too slowly and stalling and once broke my shoulder when descending a course that had a thin layer of mud over hard ground during a National X/C race. Because I couldn’t ride for months I had to push myself to relax on downhills.
My advice would be to increase your speed by around 5 mph and get used to the bike rolling over bumps.
7869hodgy Can you share the 3 tips ?
Although the previous video link had some interesting con
Although the previous video link had some interesting concepts about how to increase your down force when braking, I disagree about getting equal braking with the front and rear wheel and body position (nuts into the back wheel hurt!) . I find this series on you to mountain bike quite helpful. This one is on better braking:
Although the previous video link had some interesting concepts about how to increase your down force when braking, I disagree about getting equal braking with the front and rear wheel and body position (nuts into the back wheel hurt!) . I find this series on you to mountain bike quite helpful. This one is on better braking:
Not sure what’s going on with the play in In your levers, but I “burp” my brakes when ever they feel soft. Tightens them up nicely and it’s really easy to do. Haven’t actually needed to bleed my brakes in quite some time since using this technique. Race mechs use it, that’s how I heard about it.
TBF helmet or not I might well be bored out of my scone riding beneath YOUR limits too. Who knows tho, eh? ?
Last edited:
This is the best post here, sorry if that offends…
Coaching is the best value upgrade for anyone, no matter the age or experience level.
I’m not in my 70’s, but am nearly 65 and have been riding off-road for 55yrs.
Started coaching a couple of months ago to help me ride my new e-bike better.
I had all sorts of excuses why not to do this, some in the original post.
What an idiot I’ve been over the years not getting coaching.
I’ve improved so much, Im not going to explain it all here.
And all for less than the price of a decent new MTB backpack.
Sounds like your brakes are fine.
Sounds that like me, despite numerous decades trying to improve on your own, it turns out some assistance from a pro will TRANSFORM your riding expeditions.
Oh, and this has nothing to do with becoming speedy.
You want to improve your confidence — coaching will do and for the benefit, it’s cheap as chips.
carlbiker
🛡️🚵🛡️
As I’d said about coaching, had one earlier today at Greno on a group of far more experienced riders and whilst at first I was pootling down Steel City like a noob I was soon keeping pace (actually faster than some) after some body position corrections and advice on how to attack the berms, all whilst not using the brakes. I caught up because I was doing about 4-5 runs to their 1-2 thanks to the ‘ol ebike!
I entered noob land once again when we hit the dh section and being consistent I couldn’t modulate yet again....again after some corrections the brakes seemed to actually perform for once ?. Basically I started doing about 80% front and 20% back, after gaining confidence I started to descend much better......
I did try to find coaching before getting on trails but I couldn’t find it and I smashed into a tree because of lack of skill, had I don’t that horrible rock jump now I dare say I’d possibly be way more equipped to avoid an accident and 3 month lay off
I entered noob land once again when we hit the dh section and being consistent I couldn’t modulate yet again....again after some corrections the brakes seemed to actually perform for once ?. Basically I started doing about 80% front and 20% back, after gaining confidence I started to descend much better......
I did try to find coaching before getting on trails but I couldn’t find it and I smashed into a tree because of lack of skill, had I don’t that horrible rock jump now I dare say I’d possibly be way more equipped to avoid an accident and 3 month lay off
" Basically I started doing about 80% front and 20% back, after gaining confidence I started to descend much better......"
I couldn't agree more! I find it surprising how afraid people are of using their front brake and how much skidding (trail erosion) goes on from over using the back brake. There is also a lot of bad advice found online from "your every day, well intentioned, average rider" .
jooles
Active member
It’s because Gary is ded ‘ard ...
I wear a helmet as my head always gets in the way of my body and ground. However didn’t wear one skiing for 30 years and went down some gnar in that time. Wore one hang gliding and it saved my life. Horses for courses.
ref brakes. I’ve both sram and shim. Sram modulate shim don’t. Setup right shim would stop a supertanker dead however they need more careful use.
ref braking, I’m a classic trail braker however brake when you have traction and it’s straighter. Brake hard if necessary/needed in a short space, heel down and weighting bike then release for corner or the technical sections eg off camber roots etc you typically get on Reds in the FOD. Don’t skid. It’s not efficient braking when you loose traction
if it’s very steep, twisty and you’re just gaining speed either, like Gary would stay off the brakes and go like a rocket with wind in your long flowing hair or be very very subtle on brakes. Used too hard and bike won’t want to lean over.
Leaning bike over in corners is essential. I see loads going round corners too upright. Practice dropping bike over keeping body upright on the flat. You can really tighten into a corner this way regardless of wheel size etc. It also means if you go into a corner a bit hit dropping bike over more helps you get round. It also depends on corner support eg a berm. More berm less drop needed.
front gives power on braking. you want to stop fast use it but don’t grab a handful. Go down red runs as mentioned above in sections. Pre walk and Look for braking points/best lines. Run it slowly to start to give time to learn those braking points. Speed up when you have learnt the route. Practice front/back braking on a loose flatter surface of which there are many in the FOD.
I need to follow my own advice mind.
most import; just enjoy the riding
It’s probably best if people don’t waste their collective time getting angry with Gary. Whatever you’ve done he’s done it bigger:longer/better/faster and all without a helmet and he’ll never tire of letting you know. His cat is blacker than yours. Every forum has one.
A very knowledgeable chap and probably a decent chap off line.
The main thing is he’s happy.
A very knowledgeable chap and probably a decent chap off line.
The main thing is he’s happy.
Happy, until…..
In terms of braking and suspension control there are a lot of parallels with correct car control technique.....albeit it is largely dumbed down these days in modern cars with traction and stability control electronics.
One example is for cornering.....brake before the corner.....settle the suspension by transferring the centrifugal force and keep it constant by applying a constant or slightly increased steering angle throughout the turn.......keep a constant or slight increase throttle/speed throughout the turn. Start wide and cut the apex (different on a banked turn/berm of course).
One example is for cornering.....brake before the corner.....settle the suspension by transferring the centrifugal force and keep it constant by applying a constant or slightly increased steering angle throughout the turn.......keep a constant or slight increase throttle/speed throughout the turn. Start wide and cut the apex (different on a banked turn/berm of course).
Don_Singer
Member
I’ve never really given it much thought but you made go out to the shed to see.
Mine don’t move quite an inch, about 3/4 of an inch.
When descending I just have my finger resting on the lever permanently, as in pic 1. All other times I am holding the grip with all 4 fingers.
3rd pic is to show the angle on the bars.
I also have them at the maximum/furthest away from the handle bar setting so it’s just the end of my finger activating.
At 50, I am not quite as experienced as you. Do what suits you, is comfortable and effective.
Respect for riding at 73, I hope I make it and will be doing the same
Edit - being nervous and slow doesn’t hurt, vice versa typically can.
View attachment 61279
View attachment 61280
View attachment 61387
.
. Do what suits you, is comfortable and effective. 
73! You are an inspiration!
Cockpit setup is personal and everyone does their's differently. Here is how I set up mine. For some reason bike manufacturers put the brake levers too close to the grip almost forcing you to use two fingers, which should be way too much leverage, or pinch your middle finger when you pull the lever. I swap my brake lever clamps with my dropper and shifters to move them inboard to the point where when your hand is comfortably wrapped around the grip your index finger rests at the hook point on the lever. You can see in the photo how this rider needs to move their hand out and hold the end of the grip to get their brake finger at the hook position. I prefer my hand more centered on the grip, that is, closer to the inner lock ring.
I like to set the lever reach so there is some play but it engages quite a ways from the bar. I seem to get the best feel when my index finger is more extended than close to the grip. Some levers have tool-less reach adjustment, my Shimanos require a 2.5mm hex key. Turn the adjustment screw to get the spacing between the bar and the engagement point to where you like it.
TBF helmet or not I might well be bored out of my scone riding beneath YOUR limits too. Who knows tho, eh?
Very possibly Gaz, very possibly.
Hi Carlbiker Where did you do your coaching?
I made the same decision. The individual sessions were better. I ride horses and skied back in the day as well: individual coaching is the way to go once you have the very basics.
Invidual coaching is especially important when you’ve ridden for years — and perhaps you have a few ingrained habits? It’s also valuable to have the privacy of individual coaching when sorting out confidence for things like balanced braking technique, much discussed above.
Of course, reading all the great advice here and looking at the better YT vids is well worth while. But even having a friend video us may not show us the difference between what we read online and what we’re actually doing. It definitely doesn’t tell us how to fix that, perhaps through a number of stages.
So, I believe the important bit is having an objective trained and kind person helping you see what they see when they watch you ride.
It’s also important to feel safe putting that into practice — it might feel a bit clunky at first and you will need to practice a few simple skills between sessions — and again individual coaching is well suited to that.
So, as usual a reward requires an investment ?
A bit heavy that, I know, but your question Al is so honestly asked, I feel humbled. It has been a little overwhelmed by another important topic that wasn’t really the core of your original question.
I hope you do find a coach and take those two private sessions ?????? Those with qualifications are what you’re looking for.
Visit British Cycling, the U.K. regulator, to see the types of qualifications coaches might have. Some are specifically MTB coaching and some are MTB leadership quali’s and many coaches have both.
Click this link Education & Courses (I have no affiliation to them or any coach).
Good riding!
Last edited:
carlbiker
🛡️🚵🛡️
I didn’t know I’d been uploaded until a mate spotted me! ?. Make sure to click the arrow to see the second vid, good example of why coaching is useful and how handy the right knowledge is.....this was earlier in the day, later on I wasn’t hitting the brake as much, soon won’t be at all hopefully
Good work - you look so rigid in the first video, like you're afraid to move your body around, or lean the bike over.
Last edited:
Yes, that’s me, right there in the first vid as well ?
Before having some coaching, I wouldn’t have spotted that you have more movement on the bike in the second vid with the bike being deliberately positioned under you by means of the ‘attack’ position. And I wouldn’t have spotted the completely different reasons for that gravely noise in the first vs the second. As you go through the berm in the first vid it’s obviously braking mid corner with loss of traction. In the second you’re gaining some traction with less braking and deliberately driving the lugs into the grit by weighting the bike through the bb at that point ??????
carlbiker
🛡️🚵🛡️
that sound is proper sweet too ?
Are you riding the Wild you'd been saying was a tank and unresponsive and difficult to manouver there?
If so. I hope you're beginning to see your error.
Keep at it bro, you're making fine progress!
Really? When the reserve is due for repacking, whack one of those round reserves to the front of your harness; now you have two. Jump out, open your main, release your main, get stable, then deploy your reserve. It's great practice and fun; you still have that old school reserve on the front. Or is that not legal where you are
.
Last edited:
SiDobsFig
Member
Hi Joeblow,
Give me a personnel message and we I can sort it out the cockpit for you to your specifications.
The FOD reds are a great challenge, especially when rooty and wet,(or saturated like now in our wonderful British Summer). I usually hit the Blue and then venture of on the extended Red but not on the official route as this cuts out one of the best Red downhill parts.
There are also some great XC trails in the FOD that I could show you to build confidence. Sometimes they are better as you are out in the middle of no where on your own without the tourists empty bottles and gel wrappers to distract you.
Happy Riding.
DobsFidge
Give me a personnel message and we I can sort it out the cockpit for you to your specifications.
The FOD reds are a great challenge, especially when rooty and wet,(or saturated like now in our wonderful British Summer). I usually hit the Blue and then venture of on the extended Red but not on the official route as this cuts out one of the best Red downhill parts.
There are also some great XC trails in the FOD that I could show you to build confidence. Sometimes they are better as you are out in the middle of no where on your own without the tourists empty bottles and gel wrappers to distract you.
Happy Riding.
DobsFidge
That is a really good point. Not wearing protective kit can make you a lot less confident which then leads to more mistakes. I can remember (while recovering from a couple of broken ribs after purchasing new FOX chest armour ) deciding to go down the Blue Downhill, instead of the Red,and not to go as quick as normal.The result being ending up having a peddle strike and coming off on a section I usually fly over. ;-).I used to think that when I was in my first year or so. I stupidly did not wear any armour at all except my XC helmet and gloves, even though I needed it. I thought I might look a bit "all the gear and no idea". Now I don't care at all because I know I need it. I have had involuntary dismounts at the most unexpected times and in places I was 100% OK with. If some extra protection gives you confidence then I recommend that you wear it.
Nice choice in helmet by the way! You may wish to know that my almost 14 -year old grandson thinks the Bell Super is "cool" and he really wants one. So wear your helmet with pride and be "down wiv da Youf"!
carlbiker
🛡️🚵🛡️
Are you riding the Wild you'd been saying was a tank and unresponsive and difficult to manouver there?
If so. I hope you're beginning to see your error.
Keep at it bro, you're making fine progress!
Still think it’s a tank, that berms hardly a sharp turn whilst going dh on some techy stuff.....don’t get me wrong, I love it again but I’ve my sights set on the Forestal Syrion although I might put it off for a while unless my other half lets me take a week to get to Andorra and back ? (only 2k miles back to uk!)
Have you asked ?
Maybe we could all work together on the spreadsheet of trip manipulation ?
If you get it right she'll be "Why don't you take two weeks, When do you go ?"
Similar threads
EMTB Forums
Latest articles
-
The most reliable motor brand (in Norway)
A poll was posted on a big Norwegian emtb facebook group. There are...- Knut Nes
- 3 min read
- Views: 2K
- Reaction score: 5
- Comments: 17
-
2025 Canyon Spectral:ONfly CF Ltd review
We were quite surprised to read about the new lightweight Canyon...- Knut Nes
- 7 min read
- Views: 1K
- Comments: 1