Brake swaps on a 22 Rise H15 ?

[Weeksy]

Morning.
I'm a SRAM fan when it comes to brakes, my new (to me) H15 comes with Shimano 6100 which i've owned on various bikes before and still prefer Codes. On another Eeb i've tried to swap brakes on it was next to impossible due to the routing around the motor area and being unable to get to it.
So thought i'd ask what it's like on the Rise with the EP8 RS motor and routing of cables. I'm fine with the rest in terms of bleeding and olive/barb type stuff..

 

[ebsocalmtb]

pretty simple, but requires removal of the motor/battery and a lot of patience to fish the rear brake hose through the nds chainstay. pay careful attention to the orientation of the speed sensor in that location as that can be a significant barrier to getting the rear brake hose through.

My advice is that if you don't have a lot of experience, and/or do not have the park tool chainring tool (which you will need eventually when you wear out a chainring), then just pay the shop the 50-75 bucks to do it. I have significant experience doing this on all manners of bikes. I have done this now on 3 rises (my m10, my wifes m20 and my friends h15) and all were a moderately significant pain in the ass. the first one I did, I got it all together and then didn't realize that as I tightened the battery down (the final step) that I was pinching the brake hose between the battery and the frame, which required full motor and battery removal a second time. I now am smart enough to finish the install, tighten the battery down and then check cable clearances.

Said another way... everyone pays for my garage services in beer. Fork lower leg service is a 2 beer job in that, you can pay me with 2 high quality beers, which i will drink while doing the service. Swapping brakes on a rise... is a 12 beer job, 3-4 will get consumed while doing the task, the other 8-9 are for the headache i will inevitably have after the fact.

 

[Weeksy]

Thanks mate, i look after 2 DH race bikes and 2 Enduro race bikes so i'm not unfamilliar with spanners

Sounds like a simple but fiddly job which is OK with me

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Thanks mate, i look after 2 DH race bikes and 2 Enduro race bikes so i'm not unfamilliar with spanners

Sounds like a simple but fiddly job which is OK with me

Then you'll be absolutely fine. If you've ever fished cable through an internally routed bike that isn't fully sleeved... you'll do fine here. Just heed my advice and finish the install, tighten down the battery and check clearances before you re-install the motor. The whole area around the motor and how tight things are to get the wires/dropper/brake hoses through without rattling or binding... is my least favorite thing about the rise.

 

[theremotejuggernaut]

It's easy enough but you'll have to drop the motor.

You'll also realise that you need a specific chainring tool to be able to drop the motor... Park tool LRT-2 definitely works. I've seen reports that some of the cheaper ones are too large OD and foul the chainring so don't fit.