Brake issues Code R on Levo Expert

[AdamDuckworth]

Having an issue with rear Sram Code R brake on my 2019 Levo Expert. Pads are worn thankls to a day round Cannock in the grime this week, so the lever comes almost back to the bar.
I figured I just needed another new set of pads. I use Trickstuff ones which are very good, but the set in the bike was a bit worn. Not loads, but enough.
I'd never bled the brakes so bought the proper Sram kit and did it. Fluid was OK, and there wasn't lots of bubbles. Pistons seemed to be pushed back in the calipers OK and not sticking.
Went to fit new pads, and they are not only hard to get in but even with the lever adjusted to the max, the brakes still rub a bit. Adjusted the caliper with the two bolts and makes no difference. Rode around a bit to bed them in and it's a tiny bit better.
But this is with the lever adjusted all the way in, so you have to pull it maybe two inches before it bites, which I hate. Adjust the lever out and the brakes rub.
I put in a half-worn set of pads and it's marginally better, as I can now adjust the lever further out. But it's not ideal.
So any thoughts? Or do I just junk them any buy something else?
I actually love the feel and power of the brakes when they are working well, but don't like how far you have to pull the levers to make them work...

 

[TheBikePilot]

Yeh, had a similar issue. Non OEM pads have wayyyy more 'tread' on them which means I had to sand them down to get them to fit and not rub. I know, crazy right?

This was the only way I could get the Pads to fit and not rub. And believe me it took a lot of sanding to get them not to rub.. If you look at a set of OEM Code R there is hardly any 'tread' on them in comparison. It would seem that all aftermarket pads come from a similar factory.

 

[Jamsxr]

Did you try the contact adjuster knob?

 

[AdamDuckworth]

Yeh, had a similar issue. Non OEM pads have wayyyy more 'tread' on them which means I had to sand them down to get them to fit and not rub. I know, crazy right?

This was the only way I could get the Pads to fit and not rub. And believe me it took a lot of sanding to get them not to rub.. If you look at a set of OEM Code R there is hardly any 'tread' on them in comparison. It would seem that all aftermarket pads come from a similar factory.

I have fitted them before with no issues, though.
I also have a Keveno with the same brakes, and the new pads just slip right in with no problems.

 

[AdamDuckworth]

Did you try the contact adjuster knob?

There isn't one on Code R. The Code RSC have the adjuster, not the Code R. I mean, it's only a £7000 bicycle. You cant expect Specialized to put the better components on for that meagre price...

 

[TheBikePilot]

Sorry, I meant I’ve used other brands non OEM (cheap ones) and they needed a sand down..not the brand you are mentioning.

 

[AdamDuckworth]

After riding in the wet/ mud yesterday and again having the lever coming back to the bars again, I believe I have cured my Sram Code R brake issues.
Took it to the LBS and they fitted Hope brakes all round.

 

[laustin956]

Hi what hope brake you get? Cheers

 

[Swissrider]

I have just fitted Trickstuff pads into my code R brakes - I made sure pistons pushed complete back and they fitted easily and no rubbing. Ironically, I had a lot of problems with original OEM pads rubbing (2018 Kenevo) and found caliper tricky to adjust to stop rubbing. Brakes seem much more powerful with Tickstuff

 

[Rusty]

I'd never bled the brakes so bought the proper Sram kit and did it. Fluid was OK, and there wasn't lots of bubbles. Pistons seemed to be pushed back in the calipers OK and not sticking.
Went to fit new pads, and they are not only hard to get in but even with the lever adjusted to the max, the brakes still rub a bit. Adjusted the caliper with the two bolts and makes no difference. Rode around a bit to bed them in and it's a tiny bit better.

That is common with SRAM - they are a total bitch to bleed.
That is due to them having a system that has 2 chambers that work in different pressure ranges. If you dont follow all the finicky tricks to get them right, they rub - then half way down a nice run you find the lever at the bars and you thinking to yourself .... Oh shiiite...

Usually swap for Shimano as soon as I can.

 

[rsilvers]

But this is with the lever adjusted all the way in, so you have to pull it maybe two inches before it bites, which I hate.

That is why I designed these: Deslackinators™ for SRAM® Guide and Code-R Brakes – Matter-Replicator

 

[outerlimits]

Bite adjustment is easy
If you are pulling the lever to the bars, just pull the wheel off, squeeze the brake lever once and re fit wheel. Bite point is now adjusted all the way out.

 

[TheBikePilot]

That is why I designed these: Deslackinators™ for SRAM® Guide and Code-R Brakes – Matter-Replicator

Just ordered a set buddy having seen them on Rob’s Insta..What a great idea..??

 

[Mikerb]

original post sounds to me like a series of mis diagnosis. The brakes are essentially self adjusting in that the pads could be worn down to the metal but the pistons would move the same distance except start further towards the rotor. So the original problem was to do with the fluid not the pads...system needed bleeding...possibly the fluid had absorbed moisture and its heat range therefore reduced. After that it sounds like the bleed was not done correctly. Finally if new brake pads are difficult to replace it is because the operating range of the pistons have a start point matching the amount of wear on the old pads. The system is sealed so pushing the pistons back is pushing against the pressure in the system. So a bleed valve needs to be opened to allow the pistons to go further back.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Deslackinators:

 

[njn]

sounds like a bad bleed. i have had similar issues with guides.

 

[yolo_MTB]

Deslackinators:

These things still holding up for you? Going to order some for the wifes 2022 Levo with Code-Rs.