RowanTheKiwi
Member
Alright so jumped 2 feet into the deep end upgrading my rail. Had it for 4 months, put 1300km on it so it's not a garage queen 
First off got rid of the Bonty standard comp line rims - one of the rim strips was clicking and pretty sure play/flex was creeping into the rear hub - cranking on one side pedal stroke it would rub the brake disc. Well that's my excuse and sticking with it. Got a set of beautiful Wheelworks (NZ company) Flites w Hope hubs. Main performance upgrade here was going out to 35mm which flattens the profile of the tyre - so in theory, and visually, increasing contact patch. Did I notice? maybe.. certainly felt like more grip was there. Between the rims and the eddy's you can feel dirt getting torn up underneath you under hard braking
The warranty on the Flites is fantastic, they're a set of wheels for life. Interestingly even though they're Carbon, I didn't get my weight-weenie on and weigh them, ebikes will do that to you Previously I could tell you the exact weight difference before/after.
Oh and it looks awessssome... the deeper rim and wider profile looks burly. Changing tyres is now a breeze. The Eddy's were a PITA on the stock rims, taking quite a bit of work to get on, on the Flites took all of a couple of minutes each. Even easier than DT Swiss.
Next up was the Magura MT7's - 220 MDR-p front, 203 rear
The reviews and hype train holds up - the front one's power is noticeably more than stock - I was running stock SLX's with metal pads. And you get much better modulation, said another way when you're braking on the limit you have more feel between 'front end locking and washing out' and 'i'm in control'. Much like race car's race brakes, they are noisier and less refined - the front for sure you get a warble at low speed/hard braking. It doesn't take much effort to get the rear end off the ground I noticed my first proper steep DH track today I just had a lot more confidence going down it. So thumbs up on that upgrade.
Finally put a new Fizik saddle on. Don't know how but I broke one of the rails on the stock saddle. Regardless the Fizik is way, way more comfy.. should have put that on from day 1.
Install notes:
You need a different post mount for the front if you go 220m (Magura has one), and the shiftmix to mount the shifter on (or another ispec clamp). If it's not clear on websites they *do* come with pads already. I was unclear and got some race pads which will be pretty exciting to try.
You can't re-use existing brake lines, so you need to thread in the rear one underneath the motor - installation was pretty easy, the only special tool is a T40 torx to remove the motor. I played it safe and used blue locktite reinstalling the motor bolts. Take a photo so you can refer to which way the wires go and sit around the motor.
When bleeding I didn't get any dreaded bleeding issues like some people do - worked first try. Be very deliberate about trying to get air out of the rear caliper, you will get tonnes of air in the system because you have to cut lines. So have the rear caliper hanging loose and bleed it in various positions (eg hose end up, hose end down etc). At one point I found the magic spot and bubbles kept coming and coming... I probably cycled the fluid 15 times. Much more than the 3 they say to start with.
I did have to use a rotor truing tool as the front one came slightly out.
Still have to sort the birds nest of cables. Next time
Now, to fit the Secus...
(this is what happens when you get your best bike ever in 3 decades!)
First off got rid of the Bonty standard comp line rims - one of the rim strips was clicking and pretty sure play/flex was creeping into the rear hub - cranking on one side pedal stroke it would rub the brake disc. Well that's my excuse and sticking with it. Got a set of beautiful Wheelworks (NZ company) Flites w Hope hubs. Main performance upgrade here was going out to 35mm which flattens the profile of the tyre - so in theory, and visually, increasing contact patch. Did I notice? maybe.. certainly felt like more grip was there. Between the rims and the eddy's you can feel dirt getting torn up underneath you under hard braking
The warranty on the Flites is fantastic, they're a set of wheels for life. Interestingly even though they're Carbon, I didn't get my weight-weenie on and weigh them, ebikes will do that to you
Previously I could tell you the exact weight difference before/after. Oh and it looks awessssome... the deeper rim and wider profile looks burly. Changing tyres is now a breeze. The Eddy's were a PITA on the stock rims, taking quite a bit of work to get on, on the Flites took all of a couple of minutes each. Even easier than DT Swiss.
Next up was the Magura MT7's - 220 MDR-p front, 203 rear
The reviews and hype train holds up - the front one's power is noticeably more than stock - I was running stock SLX's with metal pads. And you get much better modulation, said another way when you're braking on the limit you have more feel between 'front end locking and washing out' and 'i'm in control'. Much like race car's race brakes, they are noisier and less refined - the front for sure you get a warble at low speed/hard braking. It doesn't take much effort to get the rear end off the ground
I noticed my first proper steep DH track today I just had a lot more confidence going down it. So thumbs up on that upgrade. Finally put a new Fizik saddle on. Don't know how but I broke one of the rails on the stock saddle. Regardless the Fizik is way, way more comfy.. should have put that on from day 1.
Install notes:
You need a different post mount for the front if you go 220m (Magura has one), and the shiftmix to mount the shifter on (or another ispec clamp). If it's not clear on websites they *do* come with pads already. I was unclear and got some race pads which will be pretty exciting to try.
You can't re-use existing brake lines, so you need to thread in the rear one underneath the motor - installation was pretty easy, the only special tool is a T40 torx to remove the motor. I played it safe and used blue locktite reinstalling the motor bolts. Take a photo so you can refer to which way the wires go and sit around the motor.
When bleeding I didn't get any dreaded bleeding issues like some people do - worked first try. Be very deliberate about trying to get air out of the rear caliper, you will get tonnes of air in the system because you have to cut lines. So have the rear caliper hanging loose and bleed it in various positions (eg hose end up, hose end down etc). At one point I found the magic spot and bubbles kept coming and coming... I probably cycled the fluid 15 times. Much more than the 3 they say to start with.
I did have to use a rotor truing tool as the front one came slightly out.
Still have to sort the birds nest of cables. Next time
Now, to fit the Secus...
(this is what happens when you get your best bike ever in 3 decades!)
