Best tubeless for my emtb?? Help reqd!

[pagheca]

Good morning,

I decided to change the "tubed" tires of my Trek Powerfly 7 F.S. to tubeless ones. A nearby store can do the job for me, however they sell the tires at absurd prices (a Maxxis Asegai over 100 € each!) but would have no problem fitting the tires that I get myself (I live in a small island. The number of shops is very limited).

At this point, since I am no longer tied to their stock availability, I am asking if you can give me some advice on what is best to buy.

1) the bike is quite heavy. With me and accessories it is over 120 kg.
2) I use it mostly on (relatively) challenging dirt roads
3) I'm not a kid (er, 65) but I do a lot of downhill and mountain riding, so I need a lot of grip on the terrain, usually stony and/or muddy. The paths here are often covered with very sharp, pointy stones
4) sometimes I also ride on asphalt, but only to get to off-road trails. Not a priority to have the best feeling there.
5) it is also very important to have tires that do not puncture. Kevlar insert?

My questions:
1) I have read that it is often better to mount different front tires than rear tires. Make sense, but Is this essential?
2) given all the above, what tires do you suggest?
3) the wheels on my bike are 29 x 2.4". Will 2.5" be ok or is 2.3" better in case 2.4" does not exist?


thank you to all who will have the will and time to read and respond to my questions. And happy holidays, everyone!

Quote Reply

 

[Bones]

I would fit gravity/downhill tyres with thick sidewalls and try it without any inserts.
My winter choice is specialized hillbilly on the rear and a cannibal on the front. Both T9 compound and 29x2.4. They are draggy but grip well and I might even leave them on during the summer.

 

[pagheca]

I would fit gravity/downhill tyres with thick sidewalls and try it without any inserts.
My winter choice is specialized hillbilly on the rear and a cannibal on the front. Both T9 compound and 29x2.4. They are draggy but grip well and I might even leave them on during the summer.

Thanks! One more point: I live in a very mountanous tropical island. Temperatures are always above 10 C or so here. No icy conditions except on the very top of the island in heavy winter.

 

[Bones]

Thanks! One more point: I live in a very mountanous tropical island. Temperatures are always above 10 C or so here. No icy conditions except on the very top of the island in heavy winter.

I also live on an island. It's certainly not tropical and never seems to get above 10c but can be extremely muddy, which is why I have gone with the specialized tyres.

 

[steve_sordy]

Why are you changing from tubed to tubeless?

I have been riding tubeless for over ten years, so I'm a fan.

Are you unhappy with the grip that your current tyres are giving you? (too much, not enough). Are you getting too many punctures?

You do not have to buy special tyres that are "TUBELESS". What you do have to do is to seal the spoke holes by ensuring that your rim tape is good, add a tubeless valve and then refit your tyre. Then add sealant. If the tyres are not specifically Tubeless or tubeless ready (TLR) then ensure that you use a latex sealant because it seals the side walls much more quickly.

It is not quite as simple as that, especially for a first timer, but there are all sorts of guidance videos on YouTube that will help.

 

[Montana St Alum]

1. There are two ways manufacturers measure tire width (which can also be affected by rim width). One is by showing width in inches and the other method is ETRTO which is a more accurate measure in millimeters. ETRTO is as close to an "industry standard" as it gets, while the measurement in inches is often rounded up.
2. The idea of having a different tire in the front Vs. the rear is based on the idea that performance can be modified by that selection. I prefer a combo in which the rear tire "breaks free" first while cornering. I prefer oversteer as it is safer. Also, you may want a heavier carcass on the back or lower tread to reduce rolling resistance (not as much of a factor on an ebike).
3. We've been running tubeless for decades, so many tires are tubeless ready (TR) - but be aware that a minority are not, so check specifications.
4. A good tape job and valve installation are important! The tire should hold air without sealant (at least for a while). The sealant is to seal punctures. I just put away 6 bikes for the winter. They have a variety of tires, but I removed sealant and reinflated. 10 of the 12 tires hold air for weeks before the pressure drops too much to ride. Of the two that did not, one had a damaged bead (replaced that one) and one had damage to the tape so I retaped it.
5. Use tape that is wider than the inner width of the rim. The bead of the tire should sit ON the tape, not in a gap between the tape and the side of the rim. I prefer valves that have a conical interface with the hole in the rim. That's personal preference, but I've found that to be the best design in my experience. When I install it, I press down from the inside of the rim to get a firm seal while tightening the nut. That prevents air from escaping through that area.
6. Use a good quality tape. Don't use duct tape.
7. To be effective on the trail and to seal holes, the sealant must be liquid. You can use a zip tie as a "dip stick" to check this after time has passed by removing the valve core and sticking it down to check that.
8. Have some valve cores available as they can get clogged up from the sealant.9. YouTube has a bunch of good videos about the process.
9. As mentioned above, tubeless is great, but if you haven't had problems associated with running tubes, why bother? There's no way I'd go back to tubes, but for many it just may not be necessary. I like running lower pressure and I don't get flats. If those aren't issues, you may want to pass on converting.

 

[RustyIron]

5) it is also very important to have tires that do not puncture. Kevlar insert?

No. That's why you run sealant and pay close attention to pressures.

My questions:
1) I have read that it is often better to mount different front tires than rear tires. Make sense, but Is this essential?

Not essential, and not always better. I run aggressive tires up front to maximize traction. The rear are narrower and a little less aggressive, to allow for less rolling resistance. You always want equal or greater traction up front. So, if you run the same tires front and rear, when the front starts getting a little worn, you can stick it on the back and put a new tire on the front. The moderately worn rear tire won't give you as much traction as a new one, but it will roll faster. It's a GREAT way to get the most life out of your tires.

2) given all the above, what tires do you suggest?

There's a bunch of tires that would be suitable for you, but the last time I ran the same tires on front and rear, it was the Maxxis Dissector. They have reasonable traction and reasonable rolling resistance. They won't give you maximum traction, and they won't give you minimum rolling resistance, but they're in the middle.

3) the wheels on my bike are 29 x 2.4". Will 2.5" be ok or is 2.3" better in case 2.4" does not exist?

2.5" might be best for your needs. 2.4" would be ok.

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

All the above, clueless. Not a single piece of real advice. The guy needs some tyres (tires) and some guidance. To the OP, what's affordable in your area, you say your current wheels are 29 x 2.4 which isn't correct ( but will do, it's your current tyre size). Stick with this size (it's probably the most common tyre size in 29").

You need to tell us your riding style before anyone can answer, is it fast downhill, enjoying a relaxed ride up and down hills/ mountains, do you get heavy rain, mud, or is it usually dry and loose? Sharp stones (you mention mud and rocks), thorns, and most importantly what speed do you ride at? Flat out all the way OR sure and steady? And I'll add to that are your brakes good, if not you'll be spending money on expensive tyres for nothing. Just about any 29 x 2.4 tyre will fit the bill, the hard bit is you and the terrain you ride, and the speed you ride at. See if you can find some affordable tyres locally, and Google are they any good for what you need, it's no good buying dusty dry weather tyres if you need wet mud rubber.

 

[pagheca]

Why are you changing from tubed to tubeless?

I have been riding tubeless for over ten years, so I'm a fan.

Are you unhappy with the grip that your current tyres are giving you? (too much, not enough). Are you getting too many punctures?

The main reason is because I've been getting flat relatively often (2 times in 700 km).

Moreover, the original Bontrager tires are starting to get worn out, so I was thinking of buying better quality tires to lessen the likelihood of me getting a flat in some remote area, while improving off-road grip.

You do not have to buy special tyres that are "TUBELESS". What you do have to do is to seal the spoke holes by ensuring that your rim tape is good, add a tubeless valve and then refit your tyre. Then add sealant. If the tyres are not specifically Tubeless or tubeless ready (TLR) then ensure that you use a latex sealant because it seals the side walls much more quickly.

It is not quite as simple as that, especially for a first timer, but there are all sorts of guidance videos on YouTube that will help.

Very good point.

 

[pagheca]

All the above, clueless. Not a single piece of real advice.

I wouldn't say the above advice is clueless, but actually very helpful. And I thank everyone for the time and attention, you included.

The guy needs some tyres (tires) and some guidance. To the OP, what's affordable in your area, you say your current wheels are 29 x 2.4 which isn't correct ( but will do, it's your current tyre size). Stick with this size (it's probably the most common tyre size in 29").

Right, actually 29 x 2.4" is the tire size, not the wheel tire.

You need to tell us your riding style before anyone can answer, is it fast downhill,

Relatively fast, considering my age and level of experience (low). I try not to overdo but here you can easily get up to 30 mph downhill. Usually I go up to 1600 m altitude and get back to sea level. This is a typical profile of my rides

enjoying a relaxed ride up and down hills/ mountains,

pretty much like that.

do you get heavy rain, mud, or is it usually dry and loose?

heavy rain some time, but usually dry sand and stones. Sometime iwith sharp rocks and very steep tracks

Sharp stones (you mention mud and rocks), thorns, and most importantly what speed do you ride at?

As I said, I am not an expert or a young bold guy, but sometime I gain pretty high speed. The ground can quickly change a lot from mud to gravelm, sand, volcanic ash, pines needles, stone covered old tracks, etc, but mainly off-road tracks covered with a mix of stones and sand, sometime technically difficult. These are not trails made specifically for biking but mountain trails, sometimes fire roads in the forest or very rocky trails.

Flat out all the way OR sure and steady?

Usually, poorly maintained tracks where deep ruts creates after heavy rains

And I'll add to that are your brakes good, if not you'll be spending money on expensive tyres for nothing.

4 pistons Shimano Deore M6120, Shimano RT66 disk brakes. Not the best but not so bad, right?

Just about any 29 x 2.4 tyre will fit the bill, the hard bit is you and the terrain you ride, and the speed you ride at. See if you can find some affordable tyres locally, and Google are they any good for what you need, it's no good buying dusty dry weather tyres if you need wet mud rubber.

can you recommend a reliable website for tires reviews?

 

[Montana St Alum]

The main reason is because I've been getting flat relatively often (2 times in 700 km).

Are you flatting due to punctures (such as thorns or sharp objects) or are you pinch flatting? Pinch flatting would indicate the need for more robust sidewall support such as Maxxis' Double Down (DD). In either case going tubeless does make sense.
On my ebike, I run an Assegai up front and a Dissector on the back. If you ran that combo in a DD, I think it would work well for you, as an example.

 

[pagheca]

Are you flatting due to punctures (such as thorns or sharp objects) or are you pinch flatting? Pinch flatting would indicate the need for more robust sidewall support such as Maxxis' Double Down (DD). In either case going tubeless does make sense.
On my ebike, I run an Assegai up front and a Dissector on the back. If you ran that combo in a DD, I think it would work well for you, as an example.

I guess sharp objects (stones) but not sure. Assegai actually is what they suggested at the shop. Rear and front.

 

[Montana St Alum]

I guess sharp objects (stones) but not sure. Assegai actually is what they suggested at the shop. Rear and front.

Half of my mountain biking is without a motor. In that case, I have to consider the weight and slow rolling characteristics of grippier tires. On my ebike, there's not much downside to a heavy grippy tire. There are LOTS of tire combos that would work but I'm likely to replace my rear Dissector with an Assegai also to use it front and back once the Dissector wears out.

 

[pagheca]

I think I am going with F&R Assegai too...

 

[irie]

I think I am going with F&R Assegai too...

That's what we have in the summer, DD (Double Down) MaxxGrip front and rear. Huge grip and no punctures.

Edit: MaxxGrip

 

[Bones]

I am a fan of the Assegai tyres. The standard compound is good in the summer and gives a predictable slide, front and rear. In the wetter months though you will be inspecting the undergrowth more than you want as they are bloody useless.
Never tried the softer compounds but they should be good

 

[Dhd12]

I swapped from Assegai Dh2 combo. I live in Andalusia, very dry and rocky here too. Found the front Assegai vague on turn in and wanted a stronger casing than standard.
Went with WTB Verdict/Judge combo in Tcs tough high grip. Superb tyres very grippy and zero problems handling wise. They were a little hard to seat but don´t loose air like the Maxxis did. All set up tubeless
See review here. Hope this helps

Review: Judge & Verdict - WTB's Most Aggressive Dry-Condition Tire Combo - Pinkbike

We asked WTB for a tire combination that could tame the Southwest's boulders, sketchy moon dust and cement-hard ruts.

www.pinkbike.com

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

Did you find some affordable tyres that fit your needs? Which island are you on by the way?

 

[cappuccino34]

Thanks! One more point: I live in a very mountanous tropical island. Temperatures are always above 10 C or so here. No icy conditions except on the very top of the island in heavy winter.

Have you got a spare room?
I'll bring whatever tyres you want with me and fit them for you.

 

[pagheca]

Did you find some affordable tyres that fit your needs? Which island are you on by the way?

One of the Canary Islands. My work led me here.

And I am still looking for the tires to order. I am currently thinking to Maxxis Assegai, but I have still to figure out the various available options.

 

[cappuccino34]

Most tyres will work fine tubeless you know?
My experience of 'tubeless ready' tyres is that the majority of them have really porous sidewalls anyway, so you need to run sealant in the majority of them.
Maxxis are good at holding air, Vittoria Mazza are good too.

Michelins (I've tried most versions) and Continental Kriptotal are dreadfully porous, and need inflating every day.

 

[pagheca]

Most tyres will work fine tubeless you know?
My experience of 'tubeless ready' tyres is that the majority of them have really porous sidewalls anyway, so you need to run sealant in the majority of them.
Maxxis are good at holding air, Vittoria Mazza are good too.

Michelins (I've tried most versions) and Continental Kriptotal are dreadfully porous, and need inflating every day.

thanks. I intend to use sealant anyway. Is that ok?

 

[cappuccino34]

thanks. I intend to use sealant anyway. Is that ok?

There's no harm in trying.
Have you taped your rims already?

 

[Montana St Alum]

thanks. I intend to use sealant anyway. Is that ok?

For tubeless operation, sealant is essential, otherwise any punctures you get while riding will not seal.
Everyone has their favorite sealant. I use Orange Seal, but it's only personal preference. I've used Stans, but I opened up a tire once and the solids in it had coalesced into something that looked like a mutant tarantula. In addition to being ugly, there was no free-floating latex left to fill holes. We call them "Stanimals".

 

[pagheca]

... thanks. I would rather call it Tarantube.

 

[pagheca]

There's no harm in trying.
Have you taped your rims already?

Thanks. I will leave to the shop to do the conversion, but only once the tyre is worn.