Thanks Steve. I’m running 165mm cranks. I will review what you posted and let you know. Appreciate the feedback!!!I assume that the dropper body is as far into the seat tube as it can be. Lower your saddle until it is a comfortable riding height for flat smooth terrain. Measure the amount of exposed dropper stanchion. Take that as your guide, go slightly lower if necessary.
For example, if you measure 135mm exposed. You could go for 125mm or 150mm. The advantage of the 150mm is that you get a wider range (or do you?). If you bought a 150mm, then in its fully extended position the saddle would be 15mm too tall for you. Well, you can always reduce the height as you ride, that's what droppers are for, right? But as you have already discovered, using a dropper like that is a right pain! So go for a dropper that is smaller than the exposed stanchion (unless we are talking a mm here or there). In the above example go for the 125mm dropper, assuming the dropper is by the same manufacturer. Just lift the dropper body out of the seat tube a little bit to get your ideal saddle height.
Remember that dropper designs differ and some droppers have slightly lower bits that stick out above the seat tube before the stanchion starts. That difference may be useful to you.
I had a 150mm dropper that put the saddle 5mm too high for me. Yes, I know it's only 5mm! I thought I could live with it and I did for a while but it was a nuisance and I didn't get used to it. I put up with it, but fortunately the dropper failed after six months and I swapped it under warranty for a 125mm. This time I could get the perfect saddle height for just riding along.
Another solution might be to go for shorter cranks! That never occurred to me with my previous problem, but that was when I was on an mtb and short cranks were not "a thing" then.
Yes it’s in as far as it can go.I assume that the dropper body is as far into the seat tube as it can be. Lower your saddle until it is a comfortable riding height for flat smooth terrain. Measure the amount of exposed dropper stanchion. Take that as your guide, go slightly lower if necessary.
For example, if you measure 135mm exposed. You could go for 125mm or 150mm. The advantage of the 150mm is that you get a wider range (or do you?). If you bought a 150mm, then in its fully extended position the saddle would be 15mm too tall for you. Well, you can always reduce the height as you ride, that's what droppers are for, right? But as you have already discovered, using a dropper like that is a right pain! So go for a dropper that is smaller than the exposed stanchion (unless we are talking a mm here or there). In the above example go for the 125mm dropper, assuming the dropper is by the same manufacturer. Just lift the dropper body out of the seat tube a little bit to get your ideal saddle height.
Remember that dropper designs differ and some droppers have slightly lower bits that stick out above the seat tube before the stanchion starts. That difference may be useful to you.
I had a 150mm dropper that put the saddle 5mm too high for me. Yes, I know it's only 5mm! I thought I could live with it and I did for a while but it was a nuisance and I didn't get used to it. I put up with it, but fortunately the dropper failed after six months and I swapped it under warranty for a 125mm. This time I could get the perfect saddle height for just riding along.
Another solution might be to go for shorter cranks! That never occurred to me with my previous problem, but that was when I was on an mtb and short cranks were not "a thing" then.
GREAT video. Thanks again!!!
