Bearing removal / installation tools

[B1rdie]

Funny that I just read this thread as currently I'm going through pivot bearing hell . My Trek only has like 1,000 miles on it purchased 8 months ago. Pivots started creaking around 500 miles. Since parts have a two year warranty I took it to my LBS 3 miles away from me who is a Trek dealer, but it is not a corporate store. He replaced the upper and lower pivot bearings last week. Yesterday temps were back in the forties so I had a chance to ride it again. Now the creaking is 2-3 times as loud and appears to be coming from the upper pivot which he said was the easiest one for him to replace.

Last night I decided this AM I'm going to call the corporate Trek store located 25 miles north of me. I'm hoping they are better staffed with a tech or techs there. I figure since they have 15 electrics in stock on their website they might be more experienced with this type of issue. I'm sure they do a lot more work on EMTB's than my LBS as I only saw one electric in his show room.

I know what this is going to involve for me now . . . First I'll have to drive 25 mph north just for them to diagnois the issue and then tell me they have to order the correct bearings. Then drive home again. Then drive up there again when bearings come in. Then leave it there over night and drive back home again. Then drive back again to pick it up and pay them the labor charge as Trek's warranty says it only covers parts . . . I'm guessing $200 in labor. I think my LBS Trek store had the bill reversed as he charged me like $100 for the bearings and Trek's warranty states they don't pay for labor.

So I'll clock another 150 miles to get this done now a 2nd time.
And this corporate store might even give me a hard time telling me to take it back to where I bought it. I tried to order my model from them originally and they told me I wouldn't see it for a year! So Trek corporate located one for me 2.5 hours west of me (was 5 hrs round trip). I can see this turning into me having to drive another 5 hrs and also book an over night at a hotel there waiting for it to get done. I will make sure they have the bearings in stock or pre-ordered.

Bottom line is in the future I will change or re-grease the bearings myself (Does Trek use sealed bearings that ca't be re-greased?) I have a Park stand and I've watched the how to vids on Youtube. Coincidently, today I was going to order from somewhere a bearing remover/ press kit (and a crank puller to get at the bottom bearing) and this AM I see this thread resurrected on where to buy bearing tools. So far just looking at Park's combo set it is over $700 with tax and I don't need such a complete set more geared for someone doing professional bike shop repairs on various models.

My plan this AM is to make a vid of the sound and where it's coming from then send it to the corporate Trek store 25 miles north of me and see if they can diagnois it which would save me a trip back an forth.

Question . . . what might this LBS bike shop have done potentially wrong to have replaced all 4 bearings (one on each side) with both upper and lower pivots to cause the creaking now to be 2-3 times louder now than before he repaired it?
It was hard to replicate the creaking before he repaired it, If I sat on the bike and moved my body weight up and down I found I could replicate it before he changed the bearings. But now all I have to do is lean my body weight on the seat move up and down and I can hear the loud creakning while seeing the upper pivot flexing. I can even put my hand on the pivot and feel the creaking now!

Maybe they just over torqued the bolts? before thinking about changing the bearings I would undo the bolts and make a "finger check" to feel if the bearings are moving smoothly, and eventually go back to the shop that changed them.

 

[Expidia]

Maybe they just over torqued the bolts? before thinking about changing the bearings I would undo the bolts and make a "finger check" to feel if the bearings are moving smoothly, and eventually go back to the shop that changed them.

Thanks for your reply, B. But I'd rather invest yet even more of my time and money into this debacle by getting a 2nd opinion. Hopefully from a more qualified actual company owned and trained Trek Tech. I will also mention to him that it was suggested by a forum member (great point) to check that the bearings are moving smoothly. Especially the lower one where I'd have to pull the crank to get at the bolt. I already know now that in the future, I will really need to do this type of maintenance myself because I know "I" would do it right the first time. So it will be worth it to me to invest in a bearing removal and a seating kit. By the time I'm finished shelling out the money to make this current issue right, I coud have already bought probably two decent quality bearing repair kits off Amazon , Ebay or Harbor Freight etc.

 

[Stihldog]

I wonder if the quality of the bearings used or improperly assembled was the issue with my Rail 9.7 2020. Before the first 500km I had the LBS replace the bearings in the pivot area.

The creaking noise started shortly after a perfectly sized rock found its way into the pivot/frame gap. While riding on a trail I had to stop and remove the pinched rock. I also installed a short fender to prevent this from happening again.

I have the spare suspension bearings on hand and I will likely replace those soon. (+10km now). A bearing press/removal kit is on my radar.

Thanks for the follow up btw.

 

[cozzy]

Getting bearings out has never been an issue with a socket & some hammer taps. I use the bearingprotool as a blind puller when required.
I dont think I have ever managed to fit a bearing with rod, sockets, plates of metal etc without it going in on the piss.
I purchased the correct bearingprotool last time & it was so easy it was ridiculous. Straight in dead square.

 

[Expidia]

Maybe they just over torqued the bolts? before thinking about changing the bearings I would undo the bolts and make a "finger check" to feel if the bearings are moving smoothly, and eventually go back to the shop that changed them.

Thanks for that feedback B1rdie. I'm going to take the drive 30 min north of me to an actual Trek company store dealer. It's under warranty and my local dealer is more of an independently owned store who means well but I only see one Emtb in his store and the company owned store has a dozen or so in stock, so I'm sure they have a lot more experience with Trek Emtb's issues.

Update 02/6/23 Just left it off at a Company owned Trek repair shop. While it’s there checking the creaking pivot joints where the bearings were just replaced by a local Trek bike shop. I’m also having him install Bontrager LT3 tubeless tires with Stans liquid and I bought a Stans Dart. Having to change out and repair two tubed flats along the side of the road with two tubed bikes within a few months apart was two too many

See follow up post #37

 

[Sander23]

I got the kit delivered yesterday.
The quality seems excellent the handles turn super smooth

, though I diddnt use it yet.
Took some time to know how this kit works as it came with no manual at all.
I looks to be the exact copy of cema bearing tool Installatiegereedschap voor wiellagers wich has a good manual on how to use.
It looks like it's for wheel and hub bearings only but I think you can make it work with all the extra installation press cups.

 

[Expidia]

Update to post #35 above . . . I had started another thread I think and posted this noise in my pivot bearing "after" a shop replaced them. So I took it to a Trek company owned store 25 mi north of me. He torqued all pivot settings. Was still creaking (watch vid). Then he lubed all with Triflow and all noise is gone so far, after 4 rides. No charge. Trek warranties parts from what I read under their warranty, but owner pays for labor:

* I'm still going to invest in a bearing kit for future bearing renews myself.

https://youtu.be/ZOhokbK_HQg

 

[Sander23]

So was doing some bearing service on my bike. All went good so far until I came across this. I have no idea how I can press them straight in again, or what tools to use

 

[B1rdie]

Is that a crack where the bearing seats? if its only the paintwork that has cracked there is still a chance to correctly press the bearing in... otherwise, I'm afraid you have damaged the structure and will need to get a new rear triangle.

 

[Sander23]

Is that a crack where the bearing seats? if its only the paintwork that has cracked there is still a chance to correctly press the bearing in... otherwise, I'm afraid you have damaged the structure and will need to get a new rear triangle.

Where is a Crack?
As far as I see there is no Crack.
Problem I'm having is the outside isn't flat so the press puts the bearing not straight in

 

[B1rdie]

By zooming the second picture it seemed to me that there was a crack there.I'll be very happy if I'm wrong.
Anyway What I would do is take the bearing off again, its not possible to align it correctly since its started going in out of alignment. then, if you can't get a pressing toll, look for a bolt (and nut) with outer diameter that fits snug to the inner diameter of the bearing and some large bulky washers, and slowly press it in place, it has to be perfectly aligned from the very beginning.

 

[Hamina]

Put the bearing in freezer.

 

[Dave_B]

I think what the OP is asking is what should he put on the outside of the frame to press against? The outside of the frame does not have a flat surface to mate the pressing tool to, hence the bearing is going in on the wonk.

 

[Sander23]

I think what the OP is asking is what should he put on the outside of the frame to press against? The outside of the frame does not have a flat surface to mate the pressing tool to, hence the bearing is going in on the wonk.

Exactly, 2 of the bearings has a small round edge that goes up slightly and the other 2 have not flat at all.

 

[yorkshire89]

So was doing some bearing service on my bike. All went good so far until I came across this. I have no idea how I can press them straight in again, or what tools to use

Can you put the threaded bar of your press through both bearings and press from the inside out? So both press handles are between each side of the chainstay? On the side you are pressing in you'll need to remove one of the handles and turn it just using one (unscrewing to let it pass the brace on every turn).
Crap sketch...

 

[B1rdie]

I think what the OP is asking is what should he put on the outside of the frame to press against? The outside of the frame does not have a flat surface to mate the pressing tool to, hence the bearing is going in on the wonk.

First bearing goes in pressing against the flat side and second bearing is pressed against the first one outside ring.
this video is a little long but at 25:00 he presses the swing arm bearings in.

 

[James_C]

Had the same issue on levo horst link. Filed the edge on one side off a 15mm or something socket which worked well.

 

[Sander23]

I eventually diddnt service the horst link until I can make a custom adapter somehow. I talked to a friend earlier who had the same link, he took it to the dealer and even the dealer had a nightmare of doing it. They asked haibike on how to do it and even they diddnt know.

 

[Sander23]

The bearing kit above (wich claims to be only for wheels and hubs) did actually work pretty good with all the adapters I could make it work.
Had 3 sizes of bearings wich would be a little costly if I had to buy 3 separate adapters.

I was been able to press out all the other bearings like this with a smaller cup press then the size of the bearing.

And press it in fairly easy to

 

[yorkshire89]

I eventually diddnt service the horst link until I can make a custom adapter somehow. I talked to a friend earlier who had the same link, he took it to the dealer and even the dealer had a nightmare of doing it. They asked haibike on how to do it and even they diddnt know.

What's stopping you from pressing both bearings from the inside out?

 

[Sander23]

What's stopping you from pressing both bearings from the inside out?

That I cannot press it in straight.
I accidentally tapped one bearing out not knowing this. I spent an hour with it struggling I allmost destroyed the paint on it .

 

[yorkshire89]

That I cannot press it in straight.
I accidentally tapped one bearing out not knowing this. I spent an hour with it struggling I allmost destroyed the paint on it .

You should be able to press it in straight, the bearings will be parallel with each other on the inside face, you will need to set you press up as the sketch I posted above (if there is room to fit your press in).

Don't try to press both bearings in at the same time, do one at a time.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

BearingProTools.com seem to be a good company at very good price’s

 

[The EMF]

I recently replaced all the pivot bearing’s on my Whyte E150 RS. I bought the specific removal/press kit and a blind bearing extractor from BearingProTools.com. Excellent value and top quality. I also purchased an 8mm thrust washer and lubed the threads to help prevent the threads “picking up” when using the press to insert the new bearings.

 

[jimbob]

Is this any good?

Pardon our interruption...

So... rather embarrassingly I only got around to using this kit last week. The suspension bearings wernt too bad, but it was raining and I was bored.

I'd give it a very solid thumbs up from me. For the price it's an excellent kit and very well made. Using some additional sockets I also used it as a puller where access was poor to knock bearings out although I think I'll look at getting the proper tools for next time for removal. A few other people have also seen the kit and commented they thought it would have cost well over £100, which I'd agree with.

 

[James_C]

So... rather embarrassingly I only got around to using this kit last week. The suspension bearings wernt too bad, but it was raining and I was bored.

I'd give it a very solid thumbs up from me. For the price it's an excellent kit and very well made. Using some additional sockets I also used it as a puller where access was poor to knock bearings out although I think I'll look at getting the proper tools for next time for removal. A few other people have also seen the kit and commented they thought it would have cost well over £100, which I'd agree with.

I'd second that. I also bought it and was very impressed. Much better than sockets. There are loads of different sizes in there to make up any combination. I did the whole back end of the levo with it. The central bearing press part to hold the bearing central when it goes in makes the job much easier.

 

[Tonytank]

Is this any good?

Pardon our interruption...

Yep i bought that and it works a treat, very good value