BBSHD Intense 951 Hyper E-Bike

[Dave_h34]

100mm dropper, I'm out.
?

 

[michael.kozera]

I have to say that for me it looks better than the official Intense offering, congratulations on a very well executed build.

intense makes this...... not a fan of the "bulbus " battery...... also , half the capacity , 3x less power, and not even close the the same GC and suspension travel.

This is mint. Surprisingly "light weight" given the specs. I was expecting 30kg++++

Can you crank it up to a full 40a on the controller?

controller is set to 26A, as i always run below the max 30A rating to increase reliability.

If I was you I would concentrate on the battery/enclosure as it is to me the most innovative part of that bike and would be relatively easy to fit to other like models rather than the Hailong style ones and way more stylish. I'd be your first customer!

i assume u mean this type of battery?

ive made abunch of bike with that style of battery. i actually really like it, its cheap, easy to use , and fits well on alot of bikes.

100mm dropper, I'm out.
?

100mm too much or too little? i assume its the fact there is a dropper on a DH bike lol?

 

[Dave_h34]

100mm dropper is very little these days, but just a little joke that. What you've created is outstanding, it'd be brilliant from a manufacturer, as home build mind boggling good. ? Would love a go!!

 

[michael.kozera]

100mm is all i could fit.

100mm dropped has total length of 350mm and I had only 360mm to work with.

if i went to 125mm the smallest length I could find was 380mm. so bassically ,seat would be too high at that point.

 

[Mabman]

i assume u mean this type of battery?
View attachment 55397

ive made abunch of bike with that style of battery. i actually really like it, its cheap, easy to use , and fits well on alot of bikes.

No, this type of battery

I've got 3 HL type 2170 batteries already in 12/15/18 but want to get rid of the bulbous look and think that placement and potential universal application of such a type as yours would be just what I need, On my FS bike I have to only use the bottom bolt so I can tilt the mount enough to get the battery, 12ah, out and use a strap to secure the front. Works but not at all optimal. (and as close as it looks the sus beam clears the battery)

For that bike and how and where I ride it locally a 12ah battery is sufficient for the two-three hr. under 25mile rides I do. That's about all the offroad I need for the day. For longer missions on logging roads I use a front hub drop bar bike and for that I want more reach and toggle between the 15/18ah ones but would still benefit from getting rid of the wart.

Not sure how you made your case because I'm no engineer and especially dumb about plastic things like 3D printing/moulding methods etc.. But am smart enough to seek out help from others that are I guess. My perfect experience at this point would be to get enclosures made that I could swap out the cells/BMS into from my existing batteries......

 

[freerider]

Absolutely gorgeous! I'll have mine in grey please, just looking for some flights so I can pop over

 

[michael.kozera]

No, this type of battery

View attachment 55584

I've got 3 HL type 2170 batteries already in 12/15/18 but want to get rid of the bulbous look and think that placement and potential universal application of such a type as yours would be just what I need, On my FS bike I have to only use the bottom bolt so I can tilt the mount enough to get the battery, 12ah, out and use a strap to secure the front. Works but not at all optimal. (and as close as it looks the sus beam clears the battery)

View attachment 55585


For that bike and how and where I ride it locally a 12ah battery is sufficient for the two-three hr. under 25mile rides I do. That's about all the offroad I need for the day. For longer missions on logging roads I use a front hub drop bar bike and for that I want more reach and toggle between the 15/18ah ones but would still benefit from getting rid of the wart.

View attachment 55596

Not sure how you made your case because I'm no engineer and especially dumb about plastic things like 3D printing/moulding methods etc.. But am smart enough to seek out help from others that are I guess. My perfect experience at this point would be to get enclosures made that I could swap out the cells/BMS into from my existing batteries......

i dont remember the exact ones i used, but something like this:

once that was done, i then put several sheets of 2mm platic around em for protection, then finished it all off with a HD black shrink wrap over the entire pack.

 

[Doug Stampfer]

Ok lets start again! Buy another donor, start building it up & this time take pics as you go!!

 

[michael.kozera]

i got sick and tired of eating dirt and cleaning the dropper post all the time.

so i fixed both issues haha

 

[Planemo]

I just can't believe how factory that looks. In fact, I thought it was at first. I think it's how well you integrated the battery that really wins it all. How you engineered even 'simple' things like battery retention must have taken a lot of thought and effort too. And 1600Wh...mental, but awesome at the same time. I would love a bigger battery than my 625, about a 1000 would be nice.
Brilliant conversion, awesome work!

 

[michael.kozera]

I just can't believe how factory that looks. In fact, I thought it was at first. I think it's how well you integrated the battery that really wins it all. How you engineered even 'simple' things like battery retention must have taken a lot of thought and effort too. And 1600Wh...mental, but awesome at the same time. I would love a bigger battery than my 625, about a 1000 would be nice.
Brilliant conversion, awesome work!

1600wh is insane yes. but i mainly did it for battery pack life, not run time, but physical battery life.

the idea being that with 1600wh, each cell experienced half the wear/degradation as a 800wh pack, or 4 times less then 400wh pack.

but more importantly , it spreads the heat out amongst twice as many cells. so even with 1500w of power being pulled, each cell only pulls aprox 12w, which dramatically reduces heat build up. and heat is the #1 cause of cell degradation.

even when i climbed a mountain with this thing, averaging 1200w of power over 30 mins, the pack got to only 36C, impressive considering that my fathers bike which only drew 900w with a 800wh pack got to about 50c

 

[Planemo]

1600wh is insane yes. but i mainly did it for battery pack life, not run time, but physical battery life.

the idea being that with 1600wh, each cell experienced half the wear/degradation as a 800wh pack, or 4 times less then 400wh pack.

but more importantly , it spreads the heat out amongst twice as many cells. so even with 1500w of power being pulled, each cell only pulls aprox 12w, which dramatically reduces heat build up. and heat is the #1 cause of cell degradation.

Oh I totally get that, slightly OT but I am also into electric unicycles and we run the biggest packs we can too, although primarily for safety and less voltage drop under load. We are up to 3200Wh now (4x 800Wh) at 100.8v and they are as strong as an ox at 45mph.

 

[Mabman]

45mph on a unicycle is nucking futz!

 

[James Brown]

michael.kozera Your bike is amazing! I am putting a BBSHD onto an Intense M9 frame and it won't fit even with two chain guide tabs cut off, so I am about to try and do what you did to mount your motor. Without your post I probably would have moved onto a different frame, but with your inspiration I am about to start pounding away. Any advice, did you heat the aluminum or do anything to the frame before pounding and was there a best hammer shape or weight? I am a little apprehensive about ruining the frame. Thanks in advance

 

[michael.kozera]

michael.kozera Your bike is amazing! I am putting a BBSHD onto an Intense M9 frame and it won't fit even with two chain guide tabs cut off, so I am about to try and do what you did to mount your motor. Without your post I probably would have moved onto a different frame, but with your inspiration I am about to start pounding away. Any advice, did you heat the aluminum or do anything to the frame before pounding and was there a best hammer shape or weight? I am a little apprehensive about ruining the frame. Thanks in advance View attachment 58013

not to discourage you. but the frame u have will require alot more then just bending/bashing the frame. it will require cutting and re-welding if you are to fit the motor up high without it "Uttering".

red circle is where the motor would go. and the 3 lines are where you would have to cut, and re-weld "reinforcement material". all doable by even a novice with general aluminum welding skills.

or, if you dont wanna weld. do this:

cut alone the yellow line, and bash/bend alone the purple line. motor will be hanging abit low, but it would not be uttering super low.

 

[czacha414]

Great job man, for me - it`s the bestt conversion I`ve seen by far, it looks even better than some factory ebikes!

May you share some knowledge? What material you`ve used as a battery cover? Is it some kind of plastic? You`ve done it by yourself or ordered somewhere?

Thanks in advance

 

[RickBullotta]

not to discourage you. but the frame u have will require alot more then just bending/bashing the frame. it will require cutting and re-welding if you are to fit the motor up high without it "Uttering".

red circle is where the motor would go. and the 3 lines are where you would have to cut, and re-weld "reinforcement material". all doable by even a novice with general aluminum welding skills.

On your build, have you taken any big hits to the motor housing yet? That's the aspect of the DIY builds that freaks me out. It just seems so vulnerable out there.

 

[JDTattoo86]

This is brilliant. I don't suppose I can pay for your services and have a battery made for my 951?

 

[Dave_h34]

100mm is all i could fit.

100mm dropped has total length of 350mm and I had only 360mm to work with.

if i went to 125mm the smallest length I could find was 380mm. so bassically ,seat would be too high at that point.

You might just sneak a OneUp 120 on there you know, if you wanted to of course!!

 

[michael.kozera]

On your build, have you taken any big hits to the motor housing yet? That's the aspect of the DIY builds that freaks me out. It just seems so vulnerable out there.

yes and no......

as with all ebikes, including factory ebike, the motor is kinda vulnerable sagging down low. but 3 things to remember:

1- all ebikes have a chain ring, u r 100X more likely to bottom out/ hit ur chain ring first before you hit the motor. this is evident to anyone that rides DH, as u will notice that the bottom bracket area has almost no hits/scratches. but the chain ring will be mangled....

2- factory ebike have very light motors, like 2-3kg. meanwhile the BBSHD is like 5kg of solid metal. so if you where to hit a motor, i would say the DIY motor would actually be able to survive a harder hit.

3- i have a thick plastic skid plate installed on it with a silicone backing for shock absorption. i know its not much but its better then nothing


i have had several hits on it, the largest hit left a dent about 1mm deep and it looks just fine.

 

[michael.kozera]

This is brilliant. I don't suppose I can pay for your services and have a battery made for my 951?

last year i was approached by two different people, at two separate times wanting for me to convert their DH bike into an ebike going the same route i went here. ( BBSHD, large battery, clean look , etc, etc). after talking back and forth for 3 weeks, we agreed on the parts list and price. i ended up buying all the parts myself and was waiting for the bikes to come in the mail. nothing for months.....

its been over a year, both people are not responding to PM's or email.....

i ended up selling off all the parts and batteries at a huge loss on kijiji. for example, the bbshd which cost me nearly 1,000$ CAD i ended up selling for like 400$, and the batteries on kijiji went for peanuts. out of the $5,000 CAD i spent, i got back maybe 2g for everything...... worst experience ever.

from now on, i will never build anything for any one unless they pay me up front, in full for both the parts AND my time. lesson learnt, will never do again.

sorry, rant over.

 

[JDTattoo86]

I'd send you a private message - but I honestly made an account just to write the single post on how stunning this build is. I know it's been 6 months since you've responded - but I'd be more than happy to provide the money up front. I'll have to track down a frame first; but payment up front sounds more than reasonable! If you'd like to message me contact info - I'd love to make something happen. Cheers!

 

[michael.kozera]

i just made a 700wh extender pack for both my ebikes.

makes this bike have over 2,300wh's!

Custom 700wh extender pack

hi there. just wanted to share what i made, as i was fairly disappointed with most / all bottle extenders on the market, as they are all way to small "wh's" and physically too large for the wh's they give. So i made, IMO, probably the smallest 700wh extender pack you can physically make. fits...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Dado]

Hello ebikers.

K1 eBikes has designed small, portable and simple K1 CAN Monitor & Speed Unlocker - no need computer or mess with BESST. Works ONLY with Bafang motors with CAN bus (green connector to display with "house" shape 5 pin connector).

For more info check the following link:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31...

How to unlock speed:
https://youtu.be/6z3TzEqNWsQ

If you interested, send an email to [email protected], will answer any questions and will send user manual.
K1 CAN Monitor is determined for testing purpose only and is not waterproof.

 

[pxl666]

do you have photo after moulding frame and before motor mounting ?

 

[michael.kozera]

do you have photo after moulding frame and before motor mounting ?

 

[pxl666]

do you have a photo with that hole or cavity for fitting motor ?

 

[michael.kozera]

do you have a photo with that hole or cavity for fitting motor ?

no