Bar length

[pgtips]

How do you guys determine the correct bar length?
I have some Renthal bars just fitted on my Levo that I borrowed of a friend and they where cut to 760mm.
I haven't riden the bike yet with those bars on, but after watching @Rob 's video testing the Fantic, one of his gripes was the 760mm bars come fitted on that bike that is too short.

So how will I know what is the correct length bar for me?

 

[Trail Doug]

Correct bar width depends on a number of things with the biggest being personal preference. If you like the front/rear weight distribution of your bike but want to go wider you'll need a slightly shorter stem to compensate otherwise wider bars will pull your weight forward. 20mm width won't make enough of a difference to need to change stem length though. It really is a personal preference thing. I remember when 725mm was wide but at the same time 70mm was a short stem. Also as the stem gets shorter your steering will get quicker, wider bars help offset this.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

I haven't riden the bike yet with those bars on, but after watching @Rob 's video testing the Fantic, one of his gripes was the 760mm bars come fitted on that bike that is too short.

Definitely personal preference, but being a bit taller I massively favour wide bars. Just find it way more comfortable. The bars on the 2019 Fantic bike are 740mm for some reason. You can cut 800mm bars but you cant grow 740mm bars!

 

[Trail Doug]

Got 900's on my Norco and 800's on the other 2 bikes. They all put me in a similar position on very different bikes. Thought I'd be cutting the 900's down as soon as I got them but glad I tried them on the bike first as I love them that wide as it's a shorter old school freeride bike. The only time I struggle is in tight trees. The narrower 740mm bars on a short bike is just old school Euro XC thinking.

 

[R120]

900's

Where did you find them?

 

[Trail Doug]

900's

Where did you find them?

Superstar did some 'yardsticks' a few years ago. Pretty sure they are no longer available.

 

[Gary]

I actually don't even care.
Between all my mountainbikes i have 800s, 780s, 760s, 750s and 720mm

Just ride. Your body will compensate/tune into the width whatever it is.

Bar shape (sweep/rise) that you find comfortable is important.

wider = a tiny bit more stable
Narrower= much nicer for X-Ups
too wide = less strength holding yourself up and controlling the bike

 

[flash]

I found 800mm too wide for my personal preference. I did a push up measurement that turned out to be 740mm. Then I just moved my grips in and rode up and down the driveway until I found something I liked the best. For me, that's 750mm and a 35mm rise on my bike. Close to my push up width. Never been so comfortable on a bike and my hands never get numb or any pain, any more.

Gordon

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Can depend not on height, but how broad your are. As well as many other factors. Like with most of biking there's no definitive answer, it's trial and error with added personal preference.

I'm broad and 780 feel right. Could I ride 760, yep. Do I notice the difference, absolutely. Same with 800. Not sure I could go down to 740 and say the same. Yet I rode 740 for years.

Good thing is you can cut bars down, so go big and just reduce until you're happy, if you don't have the opportunity to try before you buy.

 

[Dee Scee]

why do you guys suppose backsweep is so out of fashion?
mtb bars are still so flat and straight compared to mx bars. i’m riding my stock levo bars, but considering spending $$ for more traditional moto-x bend.

 

[Gary]

Fashion?
No idea...
You don't really control a mountain bike in quite the same way with regards to imputs through the bars as when riding an MX bike.
As an example, think about how you initiate each wheel lifting while performing a bunnyhop by pulling and then pushing the bars Vs the weight shift/preload and throttle control of popping an mx bike (if you're not sure what I'm getting at).
MX bikes also have different geometry, wheelbases, cockpit space and weight distribution. not to mention the power available.
MX bars are also often attached behind the wheel axle where as a modern DH/Enduro bike has the bar clamp pretty much above the front wheel axle (similar fork axle offset to stem length).
Excessive sweep when descending or riding dynamically on a pushbike isn't great for control at all.
Having said all of the above MX race bikes tend not to have a huge amount of back sweep either.
What sweep are your MX bars? and what are you trying to achieve by fitting a similar sweep to your E-bike?

 

[Dee Scee]

thanks gary, im still finding my form on a modern fsb. i don’t know the science or math in all this. i do know that small changes in geometry can equal big changes in handling.

for me, with more of a dirtbike background, the wider bars of today are more comfortable and stable for sure. but when i sit on my bike and put my hands out to where i would naturally reach, i feel like the straightness of the bars is an adjustment. but, bars with more of a bend are uncommon these days.

bars are expensive, so i’m trying to learn more before investing the money.

the manufacturers offer bars with sweep, do you ever see anyone with them or hear them recommended?

back when bars were short and straight, i found some wide bars with a little rise and sweep. i was really happy i did. but geometry has changed a lot since then.

 

[Gary]

but when i sit on my bike and put my hands out to where i would naturally reach, i feel like the straightness of the bars is an adjustment. but, bars with more of a bend are uncommon these days.

Assuming your bike is an appropriate size it sounds more like you have flexibility issues rather than need more bar sweep. Under any circumstance where a high level of control is really required on an mtb you'll be standing. Watch any decent mtb rider and pay attention to their body postion when riding fast/technical terrain and this might start to make more sense to you.

 

[mark.ai]

thanks gary, im still finding my form on a modern fsb. i don’t know the science or math in all this. i do know that small changes in geometry can equal big changes in handling.

for me, with more of a dirtbike background, the wider bars of today are more comfortable and stable for sure. but when i sit on my bike and put my hands out to where i would naturally reach, i feel like the straightness of the bars is an adjustment. but, bars with more of a bend are uncommon these days.

bars are expensive, so i’m trying to learn more before investing the money.

the manufacturers offer bars with sweep, do you ever see anyone with them or hear them recommended?

back when bars were short and straight, i found some wide bars with a little rise and sweep. i was really happy i did. but geometry has changed a lot since then.

I use some bars with 16 degrees sweep which I find great. I found the original straight bars quite uncomfortable as there didn't seem to be enough pressure on the outside of the palm of my hand. I'd have to keep my elbows out really wide or twist my wrist to have what felt like a good angle in the hand.

And I've increased my stem length by 10mm to account for the backsweep on the bars and keep the reach roughly the same.

 

[HikerDave]

Can depend not on height, but how broad your are. As well as many other factors. Like with most of biking there's no definitive answer, it's trial and error with added personal preference.

I'm broad and 780 feel right. Could I ride 760, yep. Do I notice the difference, absolutely. Same with 800. Not sure I could go down to 740 and say the same. Yet I rode 740 for years.

Good thing is you can cut bars down, so go big and just reduce until you're happy, if you don't have the opportunity to try before you buy.

I’ve got long legs for my height and a proportionally short upper body, so I need to compensate for a bike’s excessive reach by narrowing the bars a bit. I usually take off a half inch from each side at a time, only after riding with the levers inboard to get a feel for whether that’s the right improvement.

I usually don’t end up with the bars very narrow; I don’t think you would notice if you looked at my bike.

 

[Gary]

That doesn't really make a whole lot of sense.

if your bike is excessively long fit a shorter stem or buy a size shorter frame.

Comfortable bar width has far more to do with shoulder width than arm length and very little to do with torso length at all.

 

[HikerDave]

That doesn't really make a whole lot of sense.

if your bike is excessively long fit a shorter stem or buy a size shorter frame.

Comfortable bar width has far more to do with shoulder width than arm length and very little to do with torso length at all.

I have narrow shoulders for my height. My stem is 35mm and bar width is 80mm rise and 740mm width. Unfortunately for me, I need a frame with XL stack and Medium reach so I end up on a Large.

 

[HikerDave]

I have narrow shoulders for my height. My stem is 35mm and bar width is 80mm rise and 740mm width. Unfortunately for me, I need a frame with XL stack and Medium reach so I end up on a Large.

Another consideration is how much bend one wants in the elbows. I see many people riding around with their arms straight out but having a little spare arm extension helps a lot with control of the bike. For me the Deity Highrise works well.

 

[Gary]

I have narrow shoulders for my height. My stem is 35mm and bar width is 80mm rise and 740mm width. Unfortunately for me, I need a frame with XL stack and Medium reach so I end up on a Large.

sorry. Unless I've missed it. i don't think you've actually mentioned your height or what bike you're talking about.
What bars are you running that have 80mm rise? I ask as they're kinda rare other than in dirt jumping

 

[HikerDave]

sorry. Unless I've missed it. i don't think you've actually mentioned your height or what bike you're talking about.
What bars are you running that have 80mm rise? I ask as they're kinda rare other than in dirt jumping

6’1” tall barefoot. I cut the bars for my Fuji Auric 1.7 (reach 435 mm) slackened with an angleset and a large front tire, which I was riding on South Mountain in Phoenix and in Sedona.

After developing SI joint problems, I bought a Haibike SDURO Fullseven LT (reach 424mm) mainly for commuting but riding on intermediate trails on weekends. On the Haibike, the handlebar ends are only an inch higher than the saddle so it’s not too far out of whack. Handlebars are Diety Highrise; I like the higher rise because it’s easier for me to move around on the bike with the saddle down.

I’m not riding anything technical anymore; the geometry of the SDURO is pretty bad for tech riding and I’ve become a bit fragile - too much pounding makes that old-man joint hurt after the ride.

I think that bike fit is highly personal, and I know that I’m an outlier. I wouldn’t recommend that much rise for most.

 

[Gary]

Yeah. If as you say you have long legs, that's gotta be an incredibly high bar height.
I've never run a single bike with my bar height anywhere near as high as my saddle (up) height and I'm an ex-DH rider so ride stood up more than most. They're generally around 2" lower (roadbike more like 5" saddle to bar top drop)
I'm a perfectly proportioned 5'11" and coincidently on a 435mm reach ebike with a 35mm stem too and because it's labeled a small (S) folk tend to freak out. Industry led fashion over the past few years has said everyone should be on a bike 2" longer with 2" taller diameter wheels. So I'm entirely with you on it all being personal preference.

 

[Rusty]

Bar width?
Get down in the push-up position and have someone measure the outside of your hands - then add a little bit - say 60mm. You will then have a bar width that gives you the best leverage based on your build.
Sweep?
Hold your arms straight out and the natural angle of your grip without changing your wrist angle will give the sweep that suits your body.

That is how I was told way back in my early MX days and funnily enough, just a couple years ago when talking to someone building custom 1-off carbon track bikes we were talking bike fit and he told me the same thing.
Myself, I am doing that now, but back in 2010 when I was doing age group in 12/24 hr events and also a lot of singles-peed riding I was running very narrow bars - probably 500 mm with bar ends. One 6hr event I had a crash and bent a rim - I was loaned a bike while they sourced a replacement and found I was climbing a hell of a lot easier with the wider bars than with my narrow ones so went to the width that suited my build and found not only did I not have to work as hard on climbs but I also had less wrist and should pain after a long event.