AXS shifting intermittent failure

[Stihldog]

Another AXS question- has anyone had issues with the B-tension screw backing out, or self-adjusting? I’ve had two rides (both in really muddy conditions) where the drivetrain starts grinding in larger cogs, when I check it’s as if the B-tension screw has released, or suddenly backed out a few turns. Checking with the gauge later, B-tension screw needs to be screwed in a few turns to get back to spec. Then it happens again 6 rides later.

Hmmm, hasn’t happened to me but having the gage (B-screw) helps. I wonder if some blue-lock tight might help.

I never used the gage because I used the Shimano XT cassette hack with the Shimano hyper glide chain. Used an Allen key instead to adjust the B screw for proper clearance. I don’t have the B-screw backing out though. I haven’t used lock tight but I’m gonna check my clearance again, and two other bikes also.

 

[Mteam]

Another AXS question- has anyone had issues with the B-tension screw backing out, or self-adjusting? I’ve had two rides (both in really muddy conditions) where the drivetrain starts grinding in larger cogs, when I check it’s as if the B-tension screw has released, or suddenly backed out a few turns. Checking with the gauge later, B-tension screw needs to be screwed in a few turns to get back to spec. Then it happens again 6 rides later.

yes,mine started doing this recently after about 2 years use.

A bit of threadlock on the b tension screw has fixed it.

 

[Shjay]

Another AXS question- has anyone had issues with the B-tension screw backing out, or self-adjusting? I’ve had two rides (both in really muddy conditions) where the drivetrain starts grinding in larger cogs, when I check it’s as if the B-tension screw has released, or suddenly backed out a few turns. Checking with the gauge later, B-tension screw needs to be screwed in a few turns to get back to spec. Then it happens again 6 rides later.

I have had this happen on a mechanical GX derailleur. Screw also bent a bit! No issues with my XX1 derailleur defiantly tougher than GX

 

[Uktonyb77]

Did you remove and reinstall these pins/screws??? to get the board out?
View attachment 107181

Yes removed the two little screws with a precision Driver and made sure I didn’t lose them lol. Once you remove them you pry the plastic piece out with something soft and it will pull out from the axs with the yellow and white wires attached. There’s probs around 1”1/2 - 2” of wire that is attached. Once you get the plastic component out you will see a rubber boot type seal , remove that and then you will see the printed little green board with the pogo pins soldered to it. With mine one had failed for whatever reason o don’t know as it was still freely springing in / out when pressed. Whilst I had it all apart I just replaced both the pins to be sure. I’ve had the axs since 2019 so it’s done really well considering that’s the only issue I’ve had. Probably covered approx 5000 miles in that time and as said previously still on original battery etc.

It was actually the supoort fella at sram that apologised for not being able to divulge the exact specification of pogo pin required and instead suggested I desoldered from a charger as this was the easiest and cheapest option for repair.

I had derailleur off the bike and in a vice to do it all as just made things a lot easier.

Just used normal solder , a solder sucker to take away the old stuff once heated up from the green board and took about 20 mins start to finish with the help of my dad

Been absolutely spot on ever since . Like you I was convincing myself was it rough terrain causing it or was the battery not making contact intermittently and it drove me mad. Typically I would be in the middle of nowhere in surrey hills or friston and it would randomly happen. Usually half way into a loop ride

My dad looked at the pins under magnifying glass and he thinks there was like a fracture almost in one of them so he thinks that maybe it wasn’t passing the current correctly from the battery to the required ma rating or something.