At Least ****** Has the Tools I Need

Paulquattro

E*POWAH Elite
May 7, 2020
2,317
1,290
The Darkside
It's a well known issue on rails, as is the bikes coming with a rear derailleur bolt not torqued to spec and the deraileur whacking into the frames after a few rides, destoying the frame if it was a carbon one.
I was considering a rail7 but everything I read about them put me off them, I ended up going with a Whyte E-160s 29er instead and I've done 185 miles with no lockring issues, no Bosch issues at all and everything working as intended thus far.

If you buy a rail it seem sit's mandatory to buy the Bosch gen 4 lockring tool a crank extractor and a torque wrench, although everyone probably has a torque wrench anyway.









Its a well known issue on all Bosch gen 4 bikes not just Rails as i answered earlier to be fair
Ive had it on Cube , Orbea and a Trek personally
As for the UDH that should be checked as should all bolts on a new bike and be part of regular maintenance really if you want trouble free riding ,
The problem with the udh is it can come loose on all bikes if you take the rear wheel out a lot because of its design thats on Sram by the way :)
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,568
5,060
Weymouth
Never had a problem on any of my Bosch Gen4 bikes .....3 of them, one 3 years old, one 2 years old. It just needs to be fitted correctly and torqued to the correct value. That said, if I changed a chainring for whatever reason, for the sake of a few extra £, I would fit a new lockring, simply because it has very few threads and is torqued to 25-30 nm which probably "stretches" those threads preventing an efficient friction hold if refitted and torqued.

It is a reverse thread so I suspect the lack of a 2 way torque wrench when assembled in the main cause of it coming loose.

The only reason a rubber "o" ring is used is to help protect the spigot splines from dirt etc.............but it will only fit if the specific spider or DM chainring has a machined recess for it to fit in.
 

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