Any Orbea Rise M20 owners out there?

[AKRider]

I would really like the M10, but looks like I can get the M20 now or wait 6++ months for an M10 in the US. Would love some perspective from those that own the M20. Very tempted to just get the M20 and start riding and move on from worrying about better brakes, fork, wheels, etc. -- but it is hard.

 

[fenwick458]

Just got an M20 this week.

spec changes are minimal from M20 to M10
DPS vs a DPX2
full carbon frame vs just a carbon front (really if I had the choice I'd go for alloy and save some money but there were no H10's)
Purion vs Kiox (I'm really not fussed about this one neither are good)
orbea bars & stem Vs Raceface bars & stem
is that it, what have I missed?

basically you have a choice, small sacrifices in spec which you can always upgrade later, and if you upgrade you will almost certainly upgrade to a better coil, not just a tiny bit better one as fitted on the M10
or you can wait and miss out on loads of riding.
I keep hearing of people waiting to get their dream bike, or waiting till e-bikes get a bit better or a bit cheaper, my worry is that day will never come

 

[soundwave]

I was under the impression that all Rise models have the same carbon frame? @fenwick458

 

[fenwick458]

I was under the impression that all Rise models have the same carbon frame? @fenwick458

sorry, ignore me, I don't even have an orbea rise i've got a wild FS?

 

[fenwick458]

sorry, ignore me, I don't even have an orbea rise i've got a wild FS?

I assumed AKRider was talking about the Wild as they had been comparing that and a giant a few days before, didn't read it properly.

anyway, the last sentence is still valid, just get it bought don't wait for the perfect bike what if you get flattened by a bus tomorrow crossing the road?

also I saw a Rise in my LBS today it looks like a regular bike, can hardly notice the motor, battery seems invisible in the downtube

 

[PhilBaker]

So I've been l've been looking at a 'dream' M10 for a while but as you say, 6 months away.

An M20 came up in the size and color I wanted so decided to hit the button.

I think the Kashima coat on the shock/forks looks better on the M10 up but as far as I can tell from comments on here, there isn't a massive difference between the M20 vs M10 forks, there isn't a massive difference on weight and they have the same engine.

My view is the bike is still going to feel and ride great and I'm saving a fair chunk of cash on the upfront investment that I could used to upgrade components later (but am I really going to need to???).

I'd hit the button and enjoy it, I've not read any reviews saying "The M20 is shit, I wish the suspension was slightly better" ;-)

 

[Chicane]

So I've been l've been looking at a 'dream' M10 for a while but as you say, 6 months away.

An M20 came up in the size and color I wanted so decided to hit the button.

I think the Kashima coat on the shock/forks looks better on the M10 up but as far as I can tell from comments on here, there isn't a massive difference between the M20 vs M10 forks, there isn't a massive difference on weight and they have the same engine.

My view is the bike is still going to feel and ride great and I'm saving a fair chunk of cash on the upfront investment that I could used to upgrade components later (but am I really going to need to???).

I'd hit the button and enjoy it, I've not read any reviews saying "The M20 is shit, I wish the suspension was slightly better" ;-)

There’s a much bigger difference than just the Gold color, not to mention 150 front vs 140= slacker. A lot more adjustments with the Grip 2 also. I have an M10 on order, but should probably go with the M20 as I plan swapping to a Lyrik when new anyway, amongst many other component swaps including wheels. With this said the M20 is a damn good bike stock, especially at the $6500 price, so buying now is the right decision for you.

 

[soundwave]

There’s a much bigger difference than just the Gold color, not to mention 150 front vs 140= slacker.

M20 140 fork makes it slacker compared to M10 150?

 

[Mcharza]

M20 140 fork makes it slacker compared to M10 150?

As a golden rule, it might slack it about 0,5 degrees

 

[Chicane]

M20 140 fork makes it slacker compared to M10 150?

Nope! Other way around.

 

[DanMcDan]

My M20 arrived yesterday, so far so good. Just waiting on my Hunt wheels to turn up.

 

[DarrenCC]

Just got an M20 a week and a half ago. Short notice purchase after selling my Levo SL. It’s definitely full carbon front and rear, same frame on all models. I intend to change the 34 fork for a Mezzer, this was my plan for the SL before I sold it as the Mezzer is travel adjustable from 140mm to 180mm, perfect to experiment with. The DPS shock is the e-vol model and feels good on initial impressions so I won’t rush to change that yet. Bigger rotors, different bar and stem and chunkier tires will all be on the list at some point, I managed to wangle the tires into the deal when I bought it, just waiting for delivery.
just buy one and customise it yourself, we all do it right? ?

 

[Schnipps]

Just got an M20 a week and a half ago. Short notice purchase after selling my Levo SL. It’s definitely full carbon front and rear, same frame on all models. I intend to change the 34 fork for a Mezzer, this was my plan for the SL before I sold it as the Mezzer is travel adjustable from 140mm to 180mm, perfect to experiment with. The DPS shock is the e-vol model and feels good on initial impressions so I won’t rush to change that yet. Bigger rotors, different bar and stem and chunkier tires will all be on the list at some point, I managed to wangle the tires into the deal when I bought it, just waiting for delivery.
just buy one and customise it yourself, we all do it right? ?

max tyre size in the rise is 2.5 so is there much point changing from 2.4? Question on Rotors can you just change them and leave the brakes alone? Do the brakes need positioned further out from the frame/fork if you put a bigger rotor in and what happens to the rear magnet speed sensor?

 

[Chicane]

max tyre size in the rise is 2.5 so is there much point changing from 2.4? Question on Rotors can you just change them and leave the brakes alone? Do the brakes need positioned further out from the frame/fork if you put a bigger rotor in and what happens to the rear magnet speed sensor?

Yes, you need a 203 adapter if you go with Shimano rotors. You will need to swap the magnet to the new rotor.

 

[DarrenCC]

max tyre size in the rise is 2.5 so is there much point changing from 2.4? Question on Rotors can you just change them and leave the brakes alone? Do the brakes need positioned further out from the frame/fork if you put a bigger rotor in and what happens to the rear magnet speed sensor?

The stock 2.4 Rekon is a good rear tyre in dry conditions but will get out of it’s depth if things get particularly soft or rocky. I might put the front Dissector on the back and something bigger up front.
2.4 to 2.5 might not sound much but it’s more grip or more cushion depending on the chosen tyre and conditions. As for the Fox 34, I have run a 2.6 WTB Vigilante and bolt-on mudhugger pro on my previous bike with ample room to spare and tons of grip!

 

[Schnipps]

The stock 2.4 Rekon is a good rear tyre in dry conditions but will get out of it’s depth if things get particularly soft or rocky. I might put the front Dissector on the back and something bigger up front.
2.4 to 2.5 might not sound much but it’s more grip or more cushion depending on the chosen tyre and conditions. As for the Fox 34, I have run a 2.6 WTB Vigilante and bolt-on mudhugger pro on my previous bike with ample room to spare and tons of grip!

Any maxxis recommendations for a 2.6 up front when shifting the dissector to the back?

 

[soundwave]

I opted for DHR 2.4 with Dissector on the back. Many seem to chose Assegai. When my Dissector wears out I will replace that with DHR as well.

 

[Schnipps]

I opted for DHR 2.4 with Dissector on the back. Many seem to chose Assegai. When my Dissector wears out I will replace that with DHR as well.

thanks, went with minion 2.6DHF up front and moved dissector to the back. The 2.6 is a monster, and finally sorted tubeless after having to re-tape the rims up as the stock tape wouldn’t hold air.

 

[Kevlasultanpus]

Just got an M20 a week and a half ago. Short notice purchase after selling my Levo SL. It’s definitely full carbon front and rear, same frame on all models. I intend to change the 34 fork for a Mezzer, this was my plan for the SL before I sold it as the Mezzer is travel adjustable from 140mm to 180mm, perfect to experiment with. The DPS shock is the e-vol model and feels good on initial impressions so I won’t rush to change that yet. Bigger rotors, different bar and stem and chunkier tires will all be on the list at some point, I managed to wangle the tires into the deal when I bought it, just waiting for delivery.
just buy one and customise it yourself, we all do it right? ?

You should do a levo sl / orbea comparison. Ive seen a few on youtube but i think these are short term tests.

 

[Katie.mtb]

I would really like the M10, but looks like I can get the M20 now or wait 6++ months for an M10 in the US. Would love some perspective from those that own the M20. Very tempted to just get the M20 and start riding and move on from worrying about better brakes, fork, wheels, etc. -- but it is hard.

I was in the same predicament recently. I went ahead and bought the M20 because I always end up changing the spec on a bike so thought I'd save my money on the bike. My M20 now has Fox kashima 160 forks, coil shock, and I swapped the wheels to what was on my previous bike. The frames are all the same.

 

[Vwrise]

There’s a much bigger difference than just the Gold color, not to mention 150 front vs 140= slacker. A lot more adjustments with the Grip 2 also. I have an M10 on order, but should probably go with the M20 as I plan swapping to a Lyrik when new anyway, amongst many other component swaps including wheels. With this said the M20 is a damn good bike stock, especially at the $6500 price, so buying now is the right decision for you.

Hi which Lyrik forks would you go for as I’m going to upgrade mine on my m20 as the fox 34 don’t float my boat

 

[Chicane]

Hi which Lyrik forks would you go for as I’m going to upgrade mine on my m20 as the fox 34 don’t float my boat

Lyrik Ultimate. I have the 160mm which suits my riding and trails.

 

[Vwrise]

Lyrik Ultimate. I have the 160mm which suits my riding and trails.

Thanks for the reply, has it upset the geometry of the bike , I was looking at the Lyrik select 150mm little bit cheaper , did you sell your fox34 easy enough ? Cheers

 

[Chicane]

Thanks for the reply, has it upset the geometry of the bike , I was looking at the Lyrik select 150mm little bit cheaper , did you sell your fox34 easy enough ? Cheers

I ended up getting the M10 as the M20 wasn’t in available at the time. I ran the Fox 36 at 150 for the first 12 rides before the Lyrik came in stock from a private seller in the States. Both forks are equally as good and the Lyrik at 160 hasn’t changed how the bike rides, but the extra BB height is a big plus at 160.

 

[Vwrise]

I ended up getting the M10 as the M20 wasn’t in available at the time. I ran the Fox 36 at 150 for the first 12 rides before the Lyrik came in stock from a private seller in the States. Both forks are equally as good and the Lyrik at 160 hasn’t changed how the bike rides, but the extra BB height is a big plus at 160.

Cheers for the input Lyrik 160mm it is then, best get them on order