Angleset on an Orbea wild FS?

[Mteam]

Has anyone put an angleset on an orbea wild fs?

Thinking about putting one of the superstar components -2 degree anglesets on, it would take the head angle down to 63.5deg, steepen the seat angle by 0.5 deg, increase the reach by a couple of mm, increase the wheelbase by ~20mm lower the BB by 4mm, shorten the chainstays by a few mm.

All that sounds pretty good to me - just wondering if anyone else has done it first?

 

[Mteam]

So I just fitted the superstar -2 degree angleset. It fitted easily enough, will go for a ride over the weekend and see how it feels.

head angle is now (a bang on trend) 63.5 deg - I measured it at 63deg but I'll put that down to inaccuracy in the phone

BB height dropped by 4mm
Wheelbase increased by 22mm
seat angle increased by 0.5 deg

 

[Mteam]

So first impressions after a short, very wet, very muddy, night ride.

Ive put anglesets on other bikes, and sometimes they've felt unbalanced on flatter terrain where it feels like you really have to consciously weight the front wheel.

On the orbea it still feels pretty balanced, there's no lack of weight on the front wheel on flatter terrain, I put this down to the fairly long chain stays allowing a longer front centre without feeling unbalanced.

It generally feels fine, climbing feels unaffected, there's no additional wheel flop. Higher speed downhills feel a bit calmer. It's not an enormous improvement, but it does feel an improvement. It certainly doesn't change the world, but probably worth 50 quid.

 

[d3ftone]

Awesome. I think I've used a -2 angleset in my last 3 bikes (not including the Pole Evolink (just put a 27.5 wheel on the back to make it slacker haha)). Slight pain in the ass to install them, getting them lined up perfectly and all, but always worth doing. Geometry of bikes these days (depending on the bike) is finally getting to the point where I don't necessarily feel the need to use one (thank goodness). But definitely prefer the HA in that 62 to 63.5 degree range (haven't actually tried to go any slacker, maybe one day). Like you said, the fact that they also steepen the SA and lower the BB is a welcome effect too.

 

[Gardcol]

So first impressions after a short, very wet, very muddy, night ride.

Ive put anglesets on other bikes, and sometimes they've felt unbalanced on flatter terrain where it feels like you really have to consciously weight the front wheel.

On the orbea it still feels pretty balanced, there's no lack of weight on the front wheel on flatter terrain, I put this down to the fairly long chain stays allowing a longer front centre without feeling unbalanced.

It generally feels fine, climbing feels unaffected, there's no additional wheel flop. Higher speed downhills feel a bit calmer. It's not an enormous improvement, but it does feel an improvement. It certainly doesn't change the world, but probably worth 50 quid.

Hi,
Can you tell me the part number or exact model you bought please. I know that mine is fitted with the description below. Does the steering limiter affect the choice? Also my bike has the new Fox 38 fork. Thanks
HEADSET A C R O S 1 1 / 8 -1 1 / 2
ST E E R I N G L I M I T E R 1 6 4º

 

[Mteam]

Hi,
Can you tell me the part number or exact model you bought please. I know that mine is fitted with the description below. Does the steering limiter affect the choice? Also my bike has the new Fox 38 fork. Thanks
HEADSET A C R O S 1 1 / 8 -1 1 / 2
ST E E R I N G L I M I T E R 1 6 4º

Hi,

It was the t7-2 ec44/zs56 100-110mm from super star components(link below) . You need to pick the correct headtube length for your size frame, the 100-110mm fits the size large frame.

The steering limiter is removed when you use this head set, but with my fork (fox 36)the headset lifts the fork 2mm or so, so it now doesn't contact with the downtube, so the steering limiter is not needed anymore.

Slackerizer Angle Headset - 2 Degree - UK Made - Superstar Components

Slackerizer Angle Headset - 2 Degree - UK Made

www.superstarcomponents.com

 

[Gardcol]

Hi,

It was the t7-2 ec44/zs56 100-110mm from super star components(link below) . You need to pick the correct headtube length for your size frame, the 100-110mm fits the size large frame.

The steering limiter is removed when you use this head set, but with my fork (fox 36)the headset lifts the fork 2mm or so, so it now doesn't contact with the downtube, so the steering limiter is not needed anymore.

Slackerizer Angle Headset - 2 Degree - UK Made - Superstar Components

Slackerizer Angle Headset - 2 Degree - UK Made

www.superstarcomponents.com

Thanks so much for the information!

 

[Gyre]

I installed the Works Components equivalent since Superstar refuses to ship to the USA. The riding experience seems fine. The handling was a little too twitchy before. I don't consciously think about it being "too slack" now, so that's a good thing. All things being equal, I would have preferred to go with a little less extreme of a change of -1.5 or perhaps even a -1.0 headset.

Granted, this change may not be ideal for "uphill flow" events, but overall I'd call the handling to be significantly improved.

As I mentioned in the knock block thread, my fork damper dial and air spring cap cannot clear the downtube and battery compartment lock. This might be worse in terms of preventing needless crash damage since the side bumpers will be less effective and the Acros "knock block"-ish headset was removed. I'll try adding a Cane Creek +3mm or +6mm fork crown race and update when I have news.

 

[Gyre]

For anyone else thinking of going this route, I went ahead and tried the Cane Creek +3mm and +6mm crown races to get the fork caps to clear the downtube. Both races seem to be compatible with the lower headset bearing that Works uses. With the +3mm race, the damper side cap clips the downtube bumper and the edge of the battery compartment lock dial. With the +6mm race, both caps clear the bumpers and the damper cap just clips the edge of the battery compartment lock dial.

The way that it interferes with the lock dial looks pretty harmless to my eyes. In a fall, it may rotate the dial and maybe scuff the edge but I doubt it would actually break it. Turning the dial like that would unlock the cover but it wouldn't cause the battery to fall out, as the battery is secured separately.

The spacer looks a bit awkward and a test ride is in order, but it looks like there's enough clearance to spare the risk of damage to the downtube in a fall.

Bottom line: A -2 headset may buy downtube clearance with a Fox 36, but on a Fox 38 you'll need a crown race spacer as well. I'm not sure if this degree of faff is worth it, but I might as well play with it for awhile before passing judgment. I might try a -1 headset since this is a pretty significant amount of stack I just added.

 

[Mteam]

So I ran with the 2 deg angleset for 3 or 4 months and in the end I decided that the front end felt a bit light on flat or off camber corners, it was hard to discern and is not a big effect, but weighting the front wheel was more difficult with the angleset, so have gone back to the stock headset

 

[Gyre]

So I ran with the 2 deg angleset for 3 or 4 months and in the end I decided that the front end felt a bit light on flat or off camber corners, it was hard to discern and is not a big effect, but weighting the front wheel was more difficult with the angleset, so have gone back to the stock headset

Thanks for the update. I have a -1 on the way and will try that.

 

[bigdaddy46]

Thanks for the update. I have a -1 on the way and will try that.

Did you end up testing the -1? I think I'm gonna order one for mine but not sure what angle to go.

 

[Gyre]

Did you end up testing the -1? I think I'm gonna order one for mine but not sure what angle to go.

I have the -1 but the clearance on the -2 is so tight (I already expect to flip the battery compartment latch in a fall and I’m also using the +6mm crown spacer) that I suspect it isn’t going to work.

 

[Mteam]

So after taking the angleset off back in april, I've now refitted it.

I cant decide how I prefer the bike .....

 

[bigdaddy46]

So after taking the angleset off back in april, I've now refitted it.

I cant decide how I prefer the bike .....

interesting tactics.. I still haven't pulled the trigger but I'm super tempted. for the mostly flat trails close to home it's amazing as is but when I go where it's steep I definitely would like a little more stability. Maybe 1-1.5 is the way to go.

 

[Gyre]

interesting tactics.. I still haven't pulled the trigger but I'm super tempted. for the mostly flat trails close to home it's amazing as is but when I go where it's steep I definitely would like a little more stability. Maybe 1-1.5 is the way to go.

So the thing you'll need to worry about with a -1 headset (and maybe with a -1.5 if that's available) is that unless you find an angleset that also has built-in steering stops you'll be completely dependent on the downtube bumpers to protect the frame in a get off. How well the bumpers will work depends on how much overlap you get between the fork crown (or dials) and the bumpers and how much force/leverage is trying to twist the crown past the bumpers.

I'd speculate that in a lot of cases with an angle steeper than -2 and without the 6mm crown spacer, the overlap will be small enough that the fork would jam right past the bumpers and may gouge up your battery cover and/or its release mechanism. If that doesn't bug you, more power to you.

 

[bigdaddy46]

So the thing you'll need to worry about with a -1 headset (and maybe with a -1.5 if that's available) is that unless you find an angleset that also has built-in steering stops you'll be completely dependent on the downtube bumpers to protect the frame in a get off. How well the bumpers will work depends on how much overlap you get between the fork crown (or dials) and the bumpers and how much force/leverage is trying to twist the crown past the bumpers.

I'd speculate that in a lot of cases with an angle steeper than -2 and without the 6mm crown spacer, the overlap will be small enough that the fork would jam right past the bumpers and may gouge up your battery cover and/or its release mechanism. If that doesn't bug you, more power to you.

yeah that's the reason I haven't done it. Was considering a 1.5 thinking with the fox 36 it might be enough to squeeze by and clear it. if I do I'll post back and let you guys know. Also debating just going to a 170 travel fox 38 with stock angle

 

[Jdof]

yeah that's the reason I haven't done it. Was considering a 1.5 thinking with the fox 36 it might be enough to squeeze by and clear it. if I do I'll post back and let you guys know. Also debating just going to a 170 travel fox 38 with stock angle

Hi, I went with the fox 38 180 mm. Perfect choice. Couldn’t be happier

 

[Gyre]

Hi, I went with the fox 38 180 mm. Perfect choice. Couldn’t be happier

Can you upload a profile pic? I’d be curious to see how it looks.

 

[Jdof]

Can you upload a profile pic? I’d be curious to see how it looks.

 

[Mteam]

That must make the reach ,which is really quite short as standard, even shorter. Does it take about 10mm off the reach?

edit : I plugged the numbers into a geo calculator, results below. Green is the standard bike with a 36 160mm fork, red is with a 180mm fox 38. Both sets of numbers assume a size large frame. reach shrinks by 15mm, head angle ~64deg, seat angle~74.5deg.

 

[Jdof]

That must make the reach ,which is really quite short as standard, even shorter. Does it take about 10mm off the reach?

edit : I plugged the numbers into a geo calculator, results below. Green is the standard bike with a 36 160mm fork, red is with a 180mm fox 38. Both sets of numbers assume a size large frame. reach shrinks by 15mm, head angle ~64deg, seat angle~74.5deg.



View attachment 76330

yes, but I went for the L size (been a medium with 174 cm), 50 mm stem to compensate, handlebar a bit forward. The bike is super stable, no complains there. The fact that de bb drop is massive on this bike let me pull the trigger on the 180. Super happy with the choice.

 

[Jdof]

That must make the reach ,which is really quite short as standard, even shorter. Does it take about 10mm off the reach?

edit : I plugged the numbers into a geo calculator, results below. Green is the standard bike with a 36 160mm fork, red is with a 180mm fox 38. Both sets of numbers assume a size large frame. reach shrinks by 15mm, head angle ~64deg, seat angle~74.5deg.



View attachment 76330

The axle to crown length of the 38 160 mm is 573.7 mm. Could you please give me the name of that site/app? Looks interesting

 

[Mteam]

The axle to crown length of the 38 160 mm is 573.7 mm. Could you please give me the name of that site/app? Looks interesting

I was comparing it to my 2020 wild fs which has the fox 36 fork, so compared to the now standard fox 38 160mm I guess your reach will have reduced by ~10mm

heres the website - I use it all the time for working out what would happen if I changed X on my bike.

geometryCalc (muha.cc)

 

[Jdof]

T

I was comparing it to my 2020 wild fs which has the fox 36 fork, so compared to the now standard fox 38 160mm I guess your reach will have reduced by ~10mm

heres the website - I use it all the time for working out what would happen if I changed X on my bike.

geometryCalc (muha.cc)

Thank you!!

 

[Gyre]

Much appreciated on the photos. I did something similar running a 150mm fork on an Ibis Ripley and rode it that way for years without issue.

180 on a Wild FS is a bit too extreme for my taste. That said, I might experiment with 170 and the +6 crown spacer, which could be very close to what you have anyway.

 

[Gary]

In your obsession over the numerical value of "reach" you seem to have completely missed how the virual measurements "reach and stack" actually work together. It's not surprising you're struggling to make a choice over what you prefer when sounds like you've spent more time looking at numbers and missing the bigger picture and using basic common sense.

no matter how much you chopper out a bike the physical downtube measurement (BB-headtube) and rear axle to headtube measurements do not change. To maintain good handling when fitting a longer fork often all that is required is to lower the bar height by a similar height. Yes. "reach" will still shorten but not by the sort of distance the human body won't adapt to. shortening reach by 10mm would cause nowhere near the handling issues raising your bars by 30mm would.

 

[MtbWalker]

I run a 180 on my Wild FS too
Nothing but good and absolutely no negatives here .

View attachment 76813

Any other changes mate along with the 180mm front travel? And what head angle is it at now?

 

[MtbWalker]

No other changes only a coil rear , but it feels great out on the trails its just a shame the alloy ones have frame problems .

If I purchase one then the 180mm fork will probably be the route I go. I want to make the bike a touch slacker.