ACROS AZF-1035 Headset

[John_A]

I have a cube hybrid with and ACROS AZF-1035 ‘blocklock’ headset, it has a funny locking mechanism in the bottom bearing and crown race, see pics below. Anyone replace this with a standard SZ56 bearing and crown race?, it’s a pain, need to install some new forks, don’t want to Rick prying off the old crown race, and can’t find anyone selling them.

any ideas?

seems the bottom bearing and cup are one piece so no idea if an aftermarket (hope?.) cup and bearing would fit

 

[John_A]

Does anyone know if I can just knock out the block lok and replace with a Hope or RSP zs56 integral bottom bearing? any reason not to use bottom headset parts from one manufacturer with top parts from another

 

[target2804]

Yeah it might just not fit and the fork can be loose.
I read some posts where the fork was loose and it all came down to mixed headsets.

 

[John_A]

Yeah it might just not fit and the fork can be loose.
I read some posts where the fork was loose and it all came down to mixed headsets.

What about a standard Acros ZS56 without the knock block - Although I hate paying Acros prices!

 

[target2804]

I mean you can always try. The worst thing that can happen is a loose fork. You´ll notice immediately and then you could still buy a new headset.

 

[John_A]

I mean you can always try. The worst thing that can happen is a loose fork. You´ll notice immediately and then you could still buy a new headset.

I'm just going to stick with the knock block, cheaper, risk-free option. Not a fan, but I'll put up with it. - Cheers

 

[Clean]

The bottom bearings in my ‘22 Cube 750 SL starterd creaking like mad after 500 miles and it was doing my swede in. I swapped them for the right sized Cane Creek bearings and removed the Block Lock jobby.

Much, much better, IMHO.

I have recently had to replace the top compression ring as it is a cheap nasty plastic thing and is clearly not designed for the job it has to do.

 

[John_A]

The bottom bearings in my ‘22 Cube 750 SL starterd creaking like mad after 500 miles and it was doing my swede in. I swapped them for the right sized Cane Creek bearings and removed the Block Lock jobby.

Much, much better, IMHO.

I have recently had to replace the top compression ring as it is a cheap nasty plastic thing and is clearly not designed for the job it has to do.

What did you change the top too? I hate the across headset, and integrate cable rout in general! Hope this silly fad goes away

 

[Clean]

What did you change the top too? I hate the across headset, and integrate cable rout in general! Hope this silly fad goes away

I replaced the top with the identical Acros Compression Ring; there is no other alternative solution unless you re-route the cables, externally, which is a faff to do, and a mess to look at.

 

[Razvan_12]

Rulmenții inferiori ai pornitorului meu '22 Cube 750 SL scârțâiau ca un nebun după 500 de mile și îmi făcea swede. I-am schimbat cu regulile Cane Creek de dimensiune potrivită și am eliminat blocarea blocului.

Mult, mult mai bine, IMHO.

Recent, am fost nevoit să înlocuiesc inelul de compresie superioară, deoarece este o chestie de plastic urat ieftină și clar că nu este proiectată pentru treaba pe care o are de făcut.

After you made the changes, did the creaking reappear?

 

[Razvan_12]

And do you have a product name / code for the Cane Creek bearings ?

 

[John_A]

Well took the plunge Knocked out the knock block and used a Hope SZ56 bearing and head race. Much better!

 

[BeBiker]

... I swapped them for the right sized Cane Creek bearings and ...

Do you have a reference, order number, code, size ?

 

[TommyC]

Just got mine apart and the bottom bearing could do with replacing. Is it one piece with the cup and needs to come out together? I’ve got a nukeproof bottom assembly, without the knockblock, that looks like it will fit.

I’ve also got a nukeproof icr top assembly that looks like it will fit. I was just going to use the bearing out of it but I’ve noticed the original has a 42mm I.d, not 40mm like a standard zs56. Anyone else noticed this? Is the top also one piece? The bearing doesn’t just pop out of the cup.

 

[TommyC]

So I emailed acros asking how you replace the bearings in the headset. The answer is you can’t. Or at least shouldn’t. So it’s €40 for the top assy and €70 for the bottom!

 

[BeBiker]

Well let's not care too much about what those helpdesk people say, and replace that 15€ bearing

 

[TommyC]

Not sure how your supposed to get the bottom one past the knock block?

 

[BeBiker]

The images are in the Cube thread, link is in my profile signature

 

[TommyC]

So you managed to get the outer race of the old bearing out?

 

[BeBiker]

So you managed to get the outer race of the old bearing out?

yes, it is a part of the bearing, and I mentioned I replaced the bearing.

 

[TommyC]

yes, it is a part of the bearing, and I mentioned I replaced the bearing.

The photos in the other thread I found only show the inner race of the bearing knocked out. Perhaps I’m looking in the wrong place?

 

[BeBiker]

In the final picture you see the block with the complete old bearing out, and the complete new bearing in.

 

[TommyC]

In the final picture you see the block with the complete old bearing out, and the complete new bearing in.

I can’t understand how it presses out with the knock block there?

 

[BeBiker]

The knock block comes out together with the bearing

 

[Doug85]

I replaced the top with the identical Acros Compression Ring; there is no other alternative solution unless you re-route the cables, externally, which is a faff to do, and a mess to look at.

 

[Doug85]

View attachment 146309

I changed that arcoss Top cap out as they all crack