A whole day on one tyre ?

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
Nobby Nic 29inch on Alex Rims EX 30
After many hours, patched the tube, got tyre back on but every time I inflate the tyre goes egg- shaped and I can’t ride the bike. I’ve repeated the process 3 times but I’m at a loss. I just can’t get the tyre to sit properly in the rim. Some areas are always deeper than others when I inflate, hence the egg-shape

Any ideas? I’ve been at it all day and back at square one
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,628
8,882
Lincolnshire, UK
Faulty tyre. Warranty claim. Send pictures to whoever you bought it from and claim.

Ahh, from further posts I see that you don't mean egg shapes on the side, you mean the profile!
 
Last edited:

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
The tyres just remain in the centre of the rim and seem to have a phobia of touching the walls where they are supposed to be
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,628
8,882
Lincolnshire, UK
Check your train tracks. There is a moulded line on the tyre wall just above the bead. This needs to be parallel to the rim all the way around the wheel. In the pic below, you can see that the moulded line dips down below the rim just after the word "warning" (how apt).
Train track.jpg

To address this, reduce pressure, a lot, and pull the tyre with your hands until the line is in the right place. Some say that inflating the tyre to 60 psi will fix this anyway. But I have taken a tyre beyond that and even beyond the tyre maximum. All banging and popping has stopped and I still didn't have the lines in the right place.

Getting the lines in the right place reduces tyre imbalance and wheel wobble.
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
Check your train tracks. There is a moulded line on the tyre wall just above the bead. This needs to be parallel to the rim all the way around the wheel. In the pic below, you can see that the moulded line dips down below the rim just after the word "warning" (how apt).
View attachment 18591
To address this, reduce pressure, a lot, and pull the tyre with your hands until the line is in the right place. Some say that inflating the tyre to 60 psi will fix this anyway. But I have taken a tyre beyond that and even beyond the tyre maximum. All banging and popping has stopped and I still didn't have the lines in the right place.

Getting the lines in the right place reduces tyre imbalance and wheel wobble.

Thanks, I’ll give it a try ??
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
apply some soapy liquid?

I tried that but still most of tyre just wants to remain in the centre and not touch the rim wall. No matter how much I grip it and grab it I can’t seem to budge it. Tried partially inflating / deflating. Is there another type of tyre which is tube friendly I could use. I don’t want to go tubeless but I think this whole rim and tyre is not designed for tubes somehow
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
Check your train tracks. There is a moulded line on the tyre wall just above the bead. This needs to be parallel to the rim all the way around the wheel. In the pic below, you can see that the moulded line dips down below the rim just after the word "warning" (how apt).
View attachment 18591
To address this, reduce pressure, a lot, and pull the tyre with your hands until the line is in the right place. Some say that inflating the tyre to 60 psi will fix this anyway. But I have taken a tyre beyond that and even beyond the tyre maximum. All banging and popping has stopped and I still didn't have the lines in the right place.

Getting the lines in the right place reduces tyre imbalance and wheel wobble.

I can pull the tyre until the line is in the right place but it just drifts back again to the centre after a couple of seconds. I think it’s about 10 hours I’ve been at it now ?
 

118

E*POWAH Elite
Aug 14, 2019
642
560
Norfolk
I've always applied a washing up liquid to my tyre edges, rim and tube, prior, to help the bead seal/move. And to avoid pinch flats whilst you manipulate the tyre. Once seated, I've simply wiped off the excess. The additional liquid also helps to seal the tyre against the rim, once correctly pressurised..

Good luck (y)
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
I've always applied a washing up liquid to my tyre edges, rim and tube, prior, to help the bead seal/move. And to avoid pinch flats whilst you manipulate the tyre. Once seated, I've simply wiped off the excess. The additional liquid also helps to seal the tyre against the rim, once correctly pressurised..

Good luck (y)

Really did plaster everything in washing up liquid. It certainly helped to produce a few popping sounds as I inflated but unfortunately it still refuses to seat properly and goes lopsided again. I’m admitting defeat for today.
If I ever get another puncture in my life you have permission to shoot me.
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,562
10,086
UK
Needs more air. You could need over 60psi to pop the tyre onto the rim and it'll need to be a pump/compressor with a reservoir.
 

Rusty

E*POWAH BOSS
Jul 17, 2019
1,513
1,673
New Zealand
OK - a quick fix perhaps?
Inflate the tire to around 15psi then ride up the road 100 yards or so then back to the workshop. Pump to 50-60 psi and it should pop the bead.
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
Needs more air. You could need over 60psi to pop the tyre onto the rim and it'll need to be a pump/compressor with a reservoir.

Thanks but all this just to mend a puncture?
Needs more air. You could need over 60psi to pop the tyre onto the rim and it'll need to be a pump/compressor with a reservoir.

Thanks! What a day ?

I gave it one last shot and tried your method in addition to washing up liquid mentioned by some others here. I set the compressor to 60psi and the ran and hid in another room.
There were some pretty load bangs and I thought fireworks night had come early.
I came back into the room expecting devastation but there was my rear wheel with the tyre sitting neatly in place ??
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,628
8,882
Lincolnshire, UK
I may have misunderstood your problem. I had thought that you were getting the tyre up, but it wasn't right. If I now have understood correctly, your problem was failure to inflate successfully.

I have three suggestions:
1. Remove the valve core from your tyre valve. This allows the air to flow in at a higher rate and should overwhelm the air leaking out around the sides of the tyres. Once the tyre is up and the beads engaged, then you can refit the valve. You won't lose all your air but you will have to pump the tyre up again to at least 40psi until the banging has stopped.

2. Get an Airshot tubeless tyre inflator. I know you have a compressor, but they tend to be low volume / high pressure, when what you need to seat the beads is high volume / low pressure. The Airshot provides a huge amout of air in a very short time. When you let it go it feels like an explosion!
Airshot Tubeless Inflation System

3. Use sealant before inflation. Once you've got the tyre in place and with the beads in the centre (where yours naturally want to go), stand the wheel on the floor with the valve at the top and pour in the sealant. Attach the Hose from the charged Airshot and fire it up. I find that 140psi in the Airshot is enough on 29x2.6" tyre. This explodes the tyre onto the rim. Replace the valve and put some more air in (see previous) and then shake the wheel in all directions to distribute the sealant. That should be it, but for difficult cases I stand the wheel on a bucket to allow the sealant to act all around the rim. After 30 mins shake and flip the wheel so that the other bead gets a go.

One problem that I had with a particularly reluctant wheel was dodgy rim tape, twice on a brand new bike. Now I always replace the rim tape with Gorilla tape.

Another issue was wide holes in the rim bed where the spokes go. Even though the rim tape was covering them, the tape had been depressed into the holes. One of the tyre beads rested right across this line of 32 depressions and no amount of pressure in the Airshot could overwhelm the air from leaking past those. An extra layer of rim tape sorted that problem.

PS: There are alternatives to an Airshot, but I have no info on them.
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
I may have misunderstood your problem. I had thought that you were getting the tyre up, but it wasn't right. If I now have understood correctly, your problem was failure to inflate successfully.

I have three suggestions:
1. Remove the valve core from your tyre valve. This allows the air to flow in at a higher rate and should overwhelm the air leaking out around the sides of the tyres. Once the tyre is up and the beads engaged, then you can refit the valve. You won't lose all your air but you will have to pump the tyre up again to at least 40psi until the banging has stopped.

2. Get an Airshot tubeless tyre inflator. I know you have a compressor, but they tend to be low volume / high pressure, when what you need to seat the beads is high volume / low pressure. The Airshot provides a huge amout of air in a very short time. When you let it go it feels like an explosion!
Airshot Tubeless Inflation System

3. Use sealant before inflation. Once you've got the tyre in place and with the beads in the centre (where yours naturally want to go), stand the wheel on the floor with the valve at the top and pour in the sealant. Attach the Hose from the charged Airshot and fire it up. I find that 140psi in the Airshot is enough on 29x2.6" tyre. This explodes the tyre onto the rim. Replace the valve and put some more air in (see previous) and then shake the wheel in all directions to distribute the sealant. That should be it, but for difficult cases I stand the wheel on a bucket to allow the sealant to act all around the rim. After 30 mins shake and flip the wheel so that the other bead gets a go.

One problem that I had with a particularly reluctant wheel was dodgy rim tape, twice on a brand new bike. Now I always replace the rim tape with Gorilla tape.

Another issue was wide holes in the rim bed where the spokes go. Even though the rim tape was covering them, the tape had been depressed into the holes. One of the tyre beads rested right across this line of 32 depressions and no amount of pressure in the Airshot could overwhelm the air from leaking past those. An extra layer of rim tape sorted that problem.

PS: There are alternatives to an Airshot, but I have no info on them.

I’m using tubes at the moment but if I go tubeless then I’ll use your method. The pump looks good and very powerful ??
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,628
8,882
Lincolnshire, UK
I’m using tubes at the moment but if I go tubeless then I’ll use your method. The pump looks good and very powerful ??

So I didn't understand after all!! :giggle: I had thought you were tubeless!
The Airshot is not a pump, its a reservoir that you have to pump up. Its major benefit is that the release of air is so fast that it overwhelms any leakage around the tyre beads and "explodes" the beads onto the rim. If the Airshot fails then something else is wrong (rim tape leaking for ex).
 

paquo

Well-known member
Jul 31, 2018
463
283
usa
. I set the compressor to 60psi and the ran and hid in another room.

ha ha...i did that once but i left the tire at 60 to stretch it out or something, then in the middle of the night i was woken out of a sound sleep by a gunshot from the garage as the tire exploded
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
Author
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2018
10,496
10,695
the internet
It was strong enough to pop my 29 2.6 rims back on. It can go up to 120 psi
Sounds like you got lucky. 120psi isn't the important part.
litres of air moved per minute and available air is and according to argos your pump only does 15l per min.
That's less than a high volume (mtb) track pump puts out pumping at one stroke per second.

For a good (easily inflated) tubeless set-up IMO rim, well sealed rim bed and tyre choice is essential.
There are many tricks to seating tubeless tyres without requiring a compressor.
eg. using a tube to seat a tyre and make it conform to the correct shape and then unseating only one bead before re-inflating tubeless.
Smearing sealant between the bead and rim edge will ensure a good seal if doing this
Removing the valve core to get greater air flow.
and using washing up liquid (or watered down WUL) on the beads to help it hold air and pop in place.

I tend to seat a new tyre to a new tubeless set up BEFORE inserting any sealant if possible. This way you have less risk of mess from fitting and it'll also become apparent very quickly whether your set-up has any weak points. (air leaks, pourous tyres etc.). a proper tubeless set-up with new components should actually hold air with no sealant whatsoever.
 

Beekeeper

🍯Honey Monster🍯
Aug 6, 2019
1,745
2,196
Surrey hills
03CFCE2F-4312-42F2-A8EB-2002F86CE870.png

Just seen this. I’ve heard that the salt in washing up liquid can corrode aluminium rims so maybe this fluid is better and it’s made by Schwalbe. Anyone used it before?
 

Slowroller

Well-known member
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2018
494
496
Wyoming
You can also use paste wax as a lubricant for those stubborn tires to get them to pop. I've never had to resort to it, soapy water and high pressure has always worked for me. The sounds can be quite alarming though.... lol
 

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