A few upgrade questions...

[Marf83]

Hi Guys,

I’ve owned my base model 19 in Matt black for a few weeks now. Absolutely love this bike.

Upgrades so far:

Fox Performance Dropper
Wolf Tooth
Mucky Nutz guards front & rear
Inviziframe kit
SP Connect stem kit for my iphone

I’m looking to upgrade:

Forks - have been looking at Fox Performance 36’. The guy in the bike shop said I need to look at emtb specific forks & that these aren’t. Is this the case?

Brakes - as I don’t know much about bikes I was looking to put the same ones you get on the s-works (SRAM code rsc) on as an upgrade as I figured I couldn’t go wrong with this logic. Is this the case though? I don’t find that the Level T’s lick my wheel out & the lack of (any kind of) adjustment is driving me crazy. Will I notice enough of a change in the swap? I don’t get the confidence I’m looking for when throwing myself down steep declines etc. I know a lot of people like hope products but I don’t like the multicolour look (I’m trying to build a bike Batman would be proud of haha).

Stem - also looking to put the stem from the expert on my bike as I like the shape, is it any good?

Any suggestions or pearls of wisdom would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Hi Guys,

I’ve owned my base model 19 in Matt black for a few weeks now. Absolutely love this bike.

Upgrades so far:

Fox Performance Dropper
Wolf Tooth
Mucky Nutz guards front & rear
Inviziframe kit
SP Connect stem kit for my iphone

I’m looking to upgrade:

Forks - have been looking at Fox Performance 36’. The guy in the bike shop said I need to look at emtb specific forks & that these aren’t. Is this the case?

Brakes - as I don’t know much about bikes I was looking to put the same ones you get on the s-works (SRAM code rsc) on as an upgrade as I figured I couldn’t go wrong with this logic. Is this the case though? I don’t find that the Level T’s lick my wheel out & the lack of (any kind of) adjustment is driving me crazy. Will I notice enough of a change in the swap? I don’t get the confidence I’m looking for when throwing myself down steep declines etc. I know a lot of people like hope products but I don’t like the multicolour look (I’m trying to build a bike Batman would be proud of haha).

Stem - also looking to put the stem from the expert on my bike as I like the shape, is it any good?

Any suggestions or pearls of wisdom would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks

Forks - not true
Brakes - just put code rsc's on mine they're brutal. I had guide Ultimates previously and they worked great too. So I'd say guide rsc's would as well.
Stem is a stem is a stem. Choose what you like. Just watch for rise, length and diameter to suit.

 

[Marf83]

Forks - not true
Brakes - just put code rsc's on mine they're brutal. I had guide Ultimates previously and they worked great too. So I'd say guide rsc's would as well.
Stem is a stem is a stem. Choose what you like. Just watch for rise, length and diameter to suit.

Hi AMC,

Thanks again, you always seem to answer my questions. Thanks for helping.

So with the forks, do I have to go with the GRIP or GRIP2 fittings? I have been looking at some second hand ones on ebay

They don’t say anything about a GRIP fitting, but do say:

15X110 Axle,Tapered steerer cut to 184mm.

The 184mm is a little short, but I could make that work by removing a spacer.

I miss wrote on my op, I actually meant code rsc’s...so I’m very happy with your comments...brutal is what I’m looking for. Did you replace your discs as well?

 

[Rich the gasman]

As amc said, don’t fall into marketing lies of e specific parts. I’ve had every brake going and code rsc are superior by far. Ride a lot in the lakes and I found with Shimano and hope they would skid often and that’s no good on Lakeland sharp rocks.

My mate was going to change his code re until he bled them properly and there now amazing.

I run the lyric on mine and love it, didn’t get on with fox.

 

[Marf83]

As amc said, don’t fall into marketing lies of e specific parts. I’ve had every brake going and code rsc are superior by far. Ride a lot in the lakes and I found with Shimano and hope they would skid often and that’s no good on Lakeland sharp rocks.

My mate was going to change his code re until he bled them properly and there now amazing.

I run the lyric on mine and love it, didn’t get on with fox.

That’s great Rich, thanks.

I’m guessing the shop guy was quite keen on me dropping £1,100 on some new ones from him.

 

[Marf83]

Forks - not true
Brakes - just put code rsc's on mine they're brutal. I had guide Ultimates previously and they worked great too. So I'd say guide rsc's would as well.
Stem is a stem is a stem. Choose what you like. Just watch for rise, length and diameter to suit.

So I’ve seen a used set of guide ultimates for £200, would you say paying the extra £150 for code rsc’s would be worth it, or save the cash?

Why did you change yours over?

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Forks - not true
Brakes - just put code rsc's on mine they're brutal. I had guide Ultimates previously and they worked great too. So I'd say guide rsc's would as well.
Stem is a stem is a stem. Choose what you like. Just watch for rise, length and diameter to suit.

So I’ve seen a used set of guide ultimates for £200, would you say paying the extra £150 for code rsc’s would be worth it, or save the cash?

Why did you change yours over?

For nearly double the price, no. I upgraded because I dropped on. I got some for 200 brand new with rotors. Sold the Ultimates for 180 so it was a no brainer. The Ultimates stopped the bike plenty and the guy that has them says they're amazing. The codes are taking a little while to get used to. My back wheel antics are not as good as the same pressure is too hard and I've locked up on trail a few times unexpectedly. Just more time with them needed.

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

Forks - not true
Brakes - just put code rsc's on mine they're brutal. I had guide Ultimates previously and they worked great too. So I'd say guide rsc's would as well.
Stem is a stem is a stem. Choose what you like. Just watch for rise, length and diameter to suit.

Hi AMC,

Thanks again, you always seem to answer my questions. Thanks for helping.

So with the forks, do I have to go with the GRIP or GRIP2 fittings? I have been looking at some second hand ones on ebay

View attachment 15226

They don’t say anything about a GRIP fitting, but do say:

15X110 Axle,Tapered steerer cut to 184mm.

The 184mm is a little short, but I could make that work by removing a spacer.

I miss wrote on my op, I actually meant code rsc’s...so I’m very happy with your comments...brutal is what I’m looking for. Did you replace your discs as well?

I'd want a better look at those stanchions. I don't know whether it's marked or just dirt.

Grip was the original damper that worked well and was the lower end fork. It worked that well they tweaked and made it there top end fork, in the grip 2. Fit4 is now the lower end. Would you notice a difference? Hard to tell and I've no personal experience. The grip 2 has more adjustment in HSC and LSC, plus hsr and lsr. If you're not a tinkerer, fit 4 or grip would be better.

 

[Vilt]

As I've been saying, the best and cheapest way to upgrade the brakes is to install guide RSC levers only. The calipers are already codes, so you just need to switch levers.

Also, as for fork upgrades - look into the vorsprung smashpot. Easily the best upgrade you can do for your fork, and doesn't cost as much as a completely new one.

 

[Al Boneta]

Lots of good suggestions.

Another brake consideration is the four piston XTs. The power is the same as the Saints, but the modulation is a lot better, so you’re less likely to skid.
I run the Hayes Dominion A4 brakes and I haven’t found anything better based on my braking performance preferences.
For a front fork I really like the PIKE forks we have been installing on customer’s bikes.
It’s a good balance between stiffness and weight and makes the front end easier to pop over trail obstacles.
The Fox 36 is good as well but personally I think the kashima coat factory stuff is a waste of money. I’ve had both and they feel the same performance wise.
A stem isn’t really an upgrade that would make much difference either.
I’d invest money in better wheels the first chance you get. We sell a bunch of DT/Swiss M 1700 spline 30 wheelsets. They are light enough, strong and relatively speaking not that expensive at $850.
If that is too much to swing at this time get the rear hub replaced, it’s a colossal failure waiting to happen.

 

[TommyBall]

I've had a bit of an issue with my code r brakes... They just didn't work properly. Bled them cleaned the calipers and pistons. Eventually changed pads for organic and changed to 203mm hope rotors. Just to give the calipers and levers a chance as I like where the bite point is. Now they feel awesome. I personally like having a brake I know I can lock out.

Edit: I know the code r brakes can be great as they were great on my first levo.

Other mods:

Good pedals + shoes
Grips
Chainring
Other tarty bits (as I can't help myself!)

 

[Marf83]

That’s brilliant guys, thanks a lot. Does anyone know off hand what length cables I need when upgrading my brakes. I can’t seem to kind anywhere that tells me how long the stick ones are. Thanks

 

[Stumpy]

I didn’t get on with the code r’s either (2 sets failed with stuck pistons In the lever) and swapped them out for XT 4 pots, br8020’s, and don’t regret it - as @Al Boneta says, far better modulation and more than enough stopping power. I also changed my rotors to ice tech 203’s - another noticeable improvement.

 

[All Mountain Coaching]

That’s brilliant guys, thanks a lot. Does anyone know off hand what length cables I need when upgrading my brakes. I can’t seem to kind anywhere that tells me how long the stick ones are. Thanks

Easy enough to measure yourself with a flexible tape. I did measure mine but have forgotten. The brakes I purchased were off a large stumpy and fit on the XL levo just fine.