Levo Gen 2 220mm floating disc questions

[Cavi]

soo I installed 220mm Mangura floating disc in the front and also a 203 floating Mangura in the rear. I was warned by the shop that there might be smoe scrapping noise from them. I had major scraping for the first couple of milesprobably just the used pads setteling in. Now it is almost gone, just very light sound sometimes. Anyone else have this?

 

[JhnRX7]

I also just installed those exact same rotors (Magura 220 F / 203 R) on my 2021 with the OEM Guide RE calipers and OEM pads. I initially torqued the calipers while holding down the brakes. This resulted in a lot of rubbing. I then readjusted the calipers by hand while spinning the wheels and inspecting the gap on either side of the rotor to find the best spot for the caliper. This improved the rubbing to the point where it is barley noticeable, but still there. I did notice both of my Magura rotors were ever so slightly out of true which in my case is contributing to the rubbing.

 

[salko]

I also just installed those exact same rotors (Magura 220 F / 203 R) on my 2021 with the OEM Guide RE calipers and OEM pads. I initially torqued the calipers while holding down the brakes. This resulted in a lot of rubbing. I then readjusted the calipers by hand while spinning the wheels and inspecting the gap on either side of the rotor to find the best spot for the caliper. This improved the rubbing to the point where it is barley noticeable, but still there. I did notice both of my Magura rotors were ever so slightly out of true which in my case is contributing to the rubbing.

Have you pushed caliper pistons all the way in before installing larger (also thicker) rotor?

 

[JhnRX7]

Have you pushed caliper pistons all the way in before installing larger (also thicker) rotor?

Yes. I used the wedge that came with the bike to compress the calipers prior to putting the wheels back on. However I also clamped the pads to the rotor after the wheel was installed / before tightening down the caliper.

 

[salko]

With wedge I think you are referring to plastic pad spacers, (at least with SRAM brakes) these are not thick enough to fully reset the pistons ...

 

[JhnRX7]

I'll give it another go and make sure to get the pistons fully compressed. Thanks!

 

[Cavi]

pushing the pistons back only helps before you actually run the brakes, after you push the brake lever for the first time it will not retract to that position again. From what I have seen it has more to do with the fact that the rotors are floating rotors and do have some movement. At this point my rubbing seems to be very minimal and I will probably live with it but I am not decided yet. I am waiting a couple more rides. If I had it to do over I would not have gone this route

 

[jsharpe]

I also just installed those exact same rotors (Magura 220 F / 203 R) on my 2021 with the OEM Guide RE calipers and OEM pads. I initially torqued the calipers while holding down the brakes. This resulted in a lot of rubbing. I then readjusted the calipers by hand while spinning the wheels and inspecting the gap on either side of the rotor to find the best spot for the caliper. This improved the rubbing to the point where it is barley noticeable, but still there. I did notice both of my Magura rotors were ever so slightly out of true which in my case is contributing to the rubbing.

I've found that after adjusting the calipers if there is still rubbing in one or two parts of the rotation simply applying some pressure in the location where the contact happens resolves the problem. I can always get it to spin without any contact, even with new thick pads. It's sometimes hard to tell which way to push on the rotor spokes (black part). I.e. press them toward the spokes or away, so I just guess and try one, if the contact is worse then go the other way. Once adjusted for no contact I verify a few times by spinning the wheel and applying the brake. Once I can repeat multiple brake applications with no contact it seems fine when riding. When I first did this I expected the contact might come back when the brakes are heated or lateral forces applied to the fork since the tolerance is so small, but that doesn't seem to happen.

 

[Cavi]

got a couple more rides in, it seems that I only get the rubbing in the first couple of minutes of the ride. I am wondering if the mineral oil is thicker when cold and rubs more until the oil warms up

 

[R120]

The disc is thicker than a standard disc, which means there is less tolerance - I have run 223mm Galfer rotors for best part of a year now, and whenever you put fresh pads in its nigh on impossible to eliminate rubbing - it goes after a few weeks in my expense once the pads have lost some material.

 

[RebornRider]

In my experience, all bike rotors develop a bit of warp after some heat cycles. You can use a cut off tie wrap as a warp indicator and a Park Tool DT-2 or an adjustable wrench to true the rotors. I like the Park Tool better than an adjustable wrench because the rotor slot is deep enough to reach the spider. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes to eliminate rub caused by a slightly warped rotor. Just don't use too much force! Better to sneak up on it than to put a visible bend in the rotor.

 

[urastus]

Have you pushed caliper pistons all the way in before installing larger (also thicker) rotor?

I think you will have trouble doing this unless you undo the port where more oil / fluid goes in. It's a sealed circuit so it needs an opening somewhere for the extra pressure to escape when trying to return pistons back all the way.

 

[salko]

I think you will have trouble doing this unless you undo the port where more oil / fluid goes in. It's a sealed circuit so it needs an opening somewhere for the extra pressure to escape when trying to return pistons back all the way.

Nope. The proper way to bleed the brakes is to use bleed block which will push the pistons all the way in so you put in a system just enough oil that pistons can be pushed all the way in any time. In the lever you also have rubber blatter which compensate temperature expansions...

 

[Strangeridemtb]

I also just installed those exact same rotors (Magura 220 F / 203 R) on my 2021 with the OEM Guide RE calipers and OEM pads. I initially torqued the calipers while holding down the brakes. This resulted in a lot of rubbing. I then readjusted the calipers by hand while spinning the wheels and inspecting the gap on either side of the rotor to find the best spot for the caliper. This improved the rubbing to the point where it is barley noticeable, but still there. I did notice both of my Magura rotors were ever so slightly out of true which in my case is contributing to the rubbing.

Did you need spacers between the caliper and adapter ?

 

[urastus]

Nope. The proper way to bleed the brakes is to use bleed block which will push the pistons all the way in so you put in a system just enough oil that pistons can be pushed all the way in any time. In the lever you also have rubber blatter which compensate temperature expansions...

Sure, if you haven't been burping as the pads wear.

 

[salko]

You cannot burp the pistons even if you wear the pads down to base plates, already tried that ?

 

[RebornRider]

You cannot burp the pistons even if you wear the pads down to base plates, already tried that ?

I've come scary close to that! Had about a piece of paper worth of pad material left.

 

[JhnRX7]

Did you need spacers between the caliper and adapter ?

I replaced the OEM adapters with Magura adapters for the specific rotor diameters.