I've been using 225mm Hope Discs for the last 4 years on my levos. No Problem so far.
This is not a road bike so I've been using the rear brake for about 60 to 70 %.
220 mm Rotor on the rear - Kenevo 2020 expert
- Thread starter Spagnol
- Start date
This is not a road bike so I've been using the rear brake for about 60 to 70 %.
Billywhizz
New Member
Hi, Not sure where you heard about the use of the back brake for moving the back end around only but imo that is total rubbish. Love the idea of the 220 rotas front and back, nothing better than hammering in to a wooded section of trails from an open section and jumping on the brakes as late as possible to bring the speed down.
- Thread starter
- #34
It was ironic ... every time somebody says that need a bigger rotor on the rear somebody point out is not needed
. I don't need 180 mm , I don't need a 700 wah battery , I don't need a 220 rotor ... but how satisfying is to have everything together
speedkills
Member
Does the rear just need a 40mm post mount adapter like a Magura QM45 mount to run a 220mm rotor on the back? I can't find the spec for the frame brake mount to know if it's a 180mm post mount stock or not.
panaphonic
New Member
Yes thats what I use.
Yes it will be. 220 on the rear is overkill though I'd say. I have 220 on the front and 203 on the rear, Shimano Saints. Plenty of stopping for the steepest and fastest trails.
I totally disagree with all of the opinions that a 220 on the back is overkill. I am running a 220 hope rotor on the back of my kenevo and it makes a big difference for me. I finally feel like I have all the power I need and don't have to think about my brakes when riding. They are just there and ready to work no matter the terrain. There was an interesting article in Enduro magazine a short while ago disproving the commonly held opinions that bigger rotors on the back are overkill. On the contrary, they may be even more beneficial than on the front! Will link the article later when I have a chance.
Not the article I was looking for but found this one which is an interesting read:
mtbphd.com
"Reason #2" touches on the smaller rear rotor misconception.
3 Reasons Why You Should Have Bigger Rotors
Since we've been using the BrakeAce brake sensor and app, we discovered that mountain bikers can do a lot to improve the performance of our brakes. One of the best things we can do is install larger rotors. The reason for this is that every time we use our brakes, we convert kinetic energy to...
mtbphd.com
"Reason #2" touches on the smaller rear rotor misconception.
Thing is there no reason not to have one, if the bike can take it. I have been running the Galfer up front for about 9 months now, and I love it, however I dont think its the stiffest bit of kit and I find myself having to re-align the callipers quite often, though fitting torque caps to my wheels made a big difference to this, so I kind of agree with what @RoJo says.
I have also found that you need to get a bit of heat into it to work well - this isn't really an issue for most rides, but if you are doing an XC ride where you are not braking very often then in can go off the boil so to speak.
I think I will try the Magura next as it looks to be much more substantial than the Galfer.
I have also found that you need to get a bit of heat into it to work well - this isn't really an issue for most rides, but if you are doing an XC ride where you are not braking very often then in can go off the boil so to speak.
I think I will try the Magura next as it looks to be much more substantial than the Galfer.
speedkills
Member
I'm with you, but for a slightly different reason I guess. So much is preference, saying x is overkill for me feels like saying running your levers at that angle is overkill for me, people have differences in preferences, else we'll all ride the same bike and components I say. My first thought when I read 220mm in the back is overkill was "What do you know about my weight, my riding style, my hand strength, etc?". Love this site, but I do wish there was a touch less of answering "how do you do x?" with "you shouldn't do x, just do more pushups, get smoother, and stronger, relax your grip, and learn how to ride a bike. Also, 4 inches of travel in the rear is overkill, I rode the Redbull Rampage last year on a hard tail.". The original answer was super useful, the follow up less so. But, it's such a great site I'll deal with it. <rant off>
Been riding riding downhill and enduro for more than 40 years and I'm 14+ stone...unless your are 20+ stone the 220 on the rear is way too big, either that or the brakes are not bedded in or working probably but gotta respect your choice, I think it world be a skid fest though.?
speedkills
Member
I'm 18.5 stone but have supremely sensitive index fingers 
- Thread starter
- #44
Guys is not only about skid ... for me is all about progressiveness and heat management .
I weight 270 lbs ... with the magura mdr-p 220 front and rear , together with shimano saints I have a huge sensibility for technical sections and they never get over heated.
Any one will get advantage on sensibility / progressiveness of a bigger rotor as well as less hand fatigue ... period .
I weight 270 lbs ... with the magura mdr-p 220 front and rear , together with shimano saints I have a huge sensibility for technical sections and they never get over heated.
Any one will get advantage on sensibility / progressiveness of a bigger rotor as well as less hand fatigue ... period .
speedkills
Member
Only loosly related, but speaking of hand fatigue, about 10 years back I was on a group dirt bike ride and while waiting for everyone to get ready, one guy had showed up early, parked his bike, then walked away for some reason. This left one jackass named Gary to talk loudly criticizing this guys bike setup, that he must have more money than brains for running those Faast Flexx bars that cost $400 plus a $700 Ohlins steering damper and what kind of pansy ass can't just learn to hang on and ride his damned bike. Then the guy comes back, and places his left hand missing 3 fingers on the grip, nobody says shit, and he proceeds to enjoy his ride.
Whenever I see someone say in a thread "I just can't understand why someone would do x" I always think, that's really a failure of their empathy or imagination isn't it?
Whenever I see someone say in a thread "I just can't understand why someone would do x" I always think, that's really a failure of their empathy or imagination isn't it?
jaakkokallio
New Member
Which adapter are you using? Magura QM45? How was the clearance with rivets? Any grinding needed?
On my bike, with galfers paired with Guide RE's, the benefits of the bigger disc are not just about stopping power, but feel too. I agree that you dont need a 220 on the rear in terms of outright stopping power, but I would consider one simply because of modulation of the braking power.
In my experience the bigger rotor is also giving me more control over my braking, with a big heavy bike, not just upping the power of the brakes.
In my experience the bigger rotor is also giving me more control over my braking, with a big heavy bike, not just upping the power of the brakes.
I'm using 220mm SRAM centreline rotors now. A bit less bite than the Galfers, but lovely and consistent so a definite improvement. As R120 says, the power isn't the main selling point (of course I can lock the brakes with 200mm rotors - probably could on a 160mm rotor if I tried hard enough!), but the modulation is. Modulation is much easier when you're pulling the levers with less force.
Since the rotors are 0.2mm thicker than 200mm rotors, this also means less fluid in the caliper pistons = stiffer system which feels better.
Since the rotors are 0.2mm thicker than 200mm rotors, this also means less fluid in the caliper pistons = stiffer system which feels better.
jaakkokallio
New Member
Confirmed. Hope 220 floating rotors with stock Code R calipers and Sram adapters fit.
Pumba
Member
What adapters please ?
Skids for kids as we say... and also very damaging to trails which is a real burst for trail builders who get really pissed off with those skidding brakes on berms etc...no need whatsoever for a 220 rear rotor, I run a big Galfer on the front and 203 on the back which is plenty with loads of modulation and I'm no lightweight...also you risk more damage with larger rotors on the back end as its the there that gets most tangled in rocks and roots....i.e. bent rotors?
Ending the rotor size myth – Why you should have a bigger brake rotor at the back than the front
Small up front, big at the rear? Contrary to popular belief, many of us should ride with bigger rotors at the rear than at the front. Read on to find out why:
enduro-mtb.com
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