2022 Rise M20 rear brake line replacement

[Wired MTB]

The rear brake line on my Rise M20 got pinched where it enters the frame from the lever and is now leaking brake fluid. I don't believe there is any way to patch the line so planning on replacement.

I know the brake line for my Deore M6100 brakes is a SM-BH90-SS.

Do I need to drop the motor and battery to replace the cable? Can the new cable be temporarily spliced to the existing cable and pushed through the frame?

Thanks in advance for any advice, recommendations, tricks, etc.

 

[Rod B.]

The rear brake line on my Rise M20 got pinched where it enters the frame from the lever and is now leaking brake fluid. I don't believe there is any way to patch the line so planning on replacement.

I know the brake line for my Deore M6100 brakes is a SM-BH90-SS.

Do I need to drop the motor and battery to replace the cable? Can the new cable be temporarily spliced to the existing cable and pushed through the frame?

Thanks in advance for any advice, recommendations, tricks, etc.

Wired,

You do not have to drop the motor. Here is a three part series I wrote on maintaining and modifying the Shimano brakes which come on your Orbea Rise. In Part # 2 of the series, about mid way through the article, I discuss using your old brake hose to pull a new brake hose through the bike without dropping the motor.

PART # 2: SHIMANO BRAKE SYSTEM – Orbea Rise Brake System Modification

This technical article is the second installment in a two part series on Shimano brake systems. Refer to “Part # 1: Shimano Brake System Service”, for information on bleeding and servicing Shimano brakes and brake pad compounds...

www.emtbforums.com

The process requires the use of a silicon spray lubricant and a machine screw.

1) Take a small piece of brake hose, i.e. one inch, with you to the hardware store. Visit the machine screw section. The length of the machine screw needs to be about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches in length. The diameter of the machine screw needs to be of a size that will thread very tightly into the brake hose.

2) Thread the machine screw into the brake hose on your bike. Leave half of the machine screw's length unthreaded. Next cut the head off of the machine screw. Thread the new brake hose onto the other half of the machine screw. Thread the two brake hoses tightly together. You want the union where the two hoses meet to be smooth, with no gap. if a gap exists, it may cause the brake hose to hang up internally.

3) I always start my new brake hose pull, starting from the rear chain stay.

4) I like to use Maxima SC1 as a lubricant to help ease friction during the hose pull process. Be very careful not get the SC1 anywhere near your brake rotors. The black rubber brake hose guide which extends out of the top of the motor mount shell and into the rear chain stay can be pulled slightly out of it's ports. Spray a bit of the silicon SC1 lubricant into each end of the black rubber hose guide. Pre-lube the exterior of the new brake hose with the SC1 spray. Doing this will slightly lessen the friction of pulling the new hose through the black rubber hose guide and up through the frame.

Another alternative method for pulling the new hose through the frame is to use a double sided SRAM hose barb connector. Below is a link to an article discussing how to use the double sided barb to connect two hoses together.

How-to: Dealing with Internal Cable Routing - Mountain Biking Australia magazine

Tips to minimise the frustration that comes with replacing internally routed cables.

www.mtbiking.com.au

I hope this helps.

Cheers
Rod

 

[A06]

Great info from Rod B. above!

A few ways to skin this cat, I favor using the park tool internal cable pulling kit which basically works the same way as Rod described as you use the existing hose to pull the new one.

What differs in my suggested approach is I suggest replacing the hose with Jagwire Pro Universal Hose. I find the hose construction to be a bit more robust which in turn provides a bit less squishy feeling in the braking system. Additionally if you ever in the future decide to replace the brand of brakes or if you simply want the best possible mineral oil brake system you can go Shigura easily since the caliper end uses a universal hose connection and make specific adapters.

Because there is a threaded connection on the caliper end you need to pull from the caliper end up through the frame vs pulling down from the lever end. 3 eMTB's and 2 internal routed analog bikes and I have yet to remove a motor but you may have a cable guide or retainer which might need to be loosened or removed.

I believe there are end splice connectors to extend hoses for use on tandems and the like but I cant recall who made them...possibly Magura?