Levo Gen 2 2021 Turbo Levo shifting/gear issues

[NomadicMike]

Picked up my 2021 Turbo Levo comp last week. During my second ride, I noticed a serious issue with the chain popping when in either of the highest two gears while pedaling hard. It doesn't happen while it's shifting, but long after it's been in gear like every mile or two. It acts like a tooth on the chainrings are bent or maybe a link in the chain is messed up and it starts to move to another gear before popping back into the gear it should be in. Middle gears are fine. My LBS mechanic said he couldn't see anything bent or wrong, but was able to reproduce it easily on my bike. He said he's never heard of this issue.

Also, less severe, but also gear related...it makes an odd noise when in the highest gear. Almost like a light rattling sound.

Anyone else having either of these problems?

Also, what should be the expectation for the LBS where I purchased it from to fix these issues? I've got less than 75 miles on it and I'm hoping they can/will fix it at no cost to me.

 

[Canakris]

Sorry for the off topic, but 2021 version? Is specialized shipping them already? Rob 'just' announced the new colors/versions a few weeks ago I think...

 

[salko]

Yes, they are already in many shops ...

 

[conceptmat]

In regards to second issue, ."it makes an odd noise when in the highest gear. Almost like a light rattling sound". I had a similar issue, played around with the part on top of the chain and it fixed it. When on highest gear it was rubbing. See photo of the part, I am not sure what is called.

 

[salko]

It's a chain guide. Yes when not set up properly it can rub and make noises.

 

[Mikerb]

Picked up my 2021 Turbo Levo comp last week. During my second ride, I noticed a serious issue with the chain popping when in either of the highest two gears while pedaling hard. It doesn't happen while it's shifting, but long after it's been in gear like every mile or two. It acts like a tooth on the chainrings are bent or maybe a link in the chain is messed up and it starts to move to another gear before popping back into the gear it should be in. Middle gears are fine. My LBS mechanic said he couldn't see anything bent or wrong, but was able to reproduce it easily on my bike. He said he's never heard of this issue.

Also, less severe, but also gear related...it makes an odd noise when in the highest gear. Almost like a light rattling sound.

Anyone else having either of these problems?

Also, what should be the expectation for the LBS where I purchased it from to fix these issues? I've got less than 75 miles on it and I'm hoping they can/will fix it at no cost to me.

Sounds like the indexing is out....not unusual for cables to stretch a little after a while from new. I suggest you release the cable at the rear mech and check the throw of the mech by hand. No reason for this to have changed but worth checking.....then rotate the adjuster at the shifter to a middle position and reaffix the cable with some pre tension. Then use the shifter adjuster as necessary to get good shifting across the cassette.

 

[NomadicMike]

LBS replaced the chain and cassette and the problem went away!

 

[NomadicMike]

In regards to second issue, ."it makes an odd noise when in the highest gear. Almost like a light rattling sound". I had a similar issue, played around with the part on top of the chain and it fixed it. When on highest gear it was rubbing. See photo of the part, I am not sure what is called. View attachment 37940

Thanks for that reply. I've had mine get loose on my 2018 Levo. I'll check on the new bike.

 

[jcp1187]

Picked up my 2021 turbo Levo comp yesterday from Boise shop first e bike ride yesterday wow

 

[cleoent]

I’ve had my 2021 back to the LBS twice out of 3 rides for drivetrain issues. Today they replaced the deraileur hanger. It still rubs on the chain guide in gears 11 and 12, but i can live with that.

Going to ride tomorrow and see if the problem is fixed, if not, back it goes.

 

[NomadicMike]

Chain is popping again. Not as frequently as when I first got the bike, but still every 5-10 miles. I've also had the bracket that's attached to the handlebar for the dropper post break off unexpectedly. The LBS mechanic said it look like it was over torqued at the factory. Then the chain guide mentioned above by Conceptmat started came loose and rubbing on the chain so I removed it and noticed that the threads were stripped as if it was also over torqued.

Anyone else having these issues?

 

[JBel]

After removing the rear wheel and then putting it back on I checked my chain guide. It appeared "off" to me. So, I looked at numerous pictures online as well as comparing it to my wife's Levo Comp. It appeared that the chain guide gets installed in all different configurations - higher, lower, tilted, flat, etc. I noticed that on my wife's bike the inner and outer pieces were not aligned. These pieces should align since they fit together and have a little tongue and groove that should align. So, it appears that this item is not always installed correctly or uniformly either from Specialized or from the LBS. When properly installed there is very little clearance between the outer chain and the guide. From the majority of pictures I determined what it should look like installed. I now have about 5-6mm of clearance between the top of the chain and the chain guide. I guess I will find out if this is correct when I ride it.

 

[rriveroll]

mi

Picked up my 2021 Turbo Levo comp last week. During my second ride, I noticed a serious issue with the chain popping when in either of the highest two gears while pedaling hard. It doesn't happen while it's shifting, but long after it's been in gear like every mile or two. It acts like a tooth on the chainrings are bent or maybe a link in the chain is messed up and it starts to move to another gear before popping back into the gear it should be in. Middle gears are fine. My LBS mechanic said he couldn't see anything bent or wrong, but was able to reproduce it easily on my bike. He said he's never heard of this issue.

Also, less severe, but also gear related...it makes an odd noise when in the highest gear. Almost like a light rattling sound.

Anyone else having either of these problems?

Also, what should be the expectation for the LBS where I purchased it from to fix these issues? I've got less than 75 miles on it and I'm hoping they can/will fix it at no cost to me.

mine had the same problem on the last (smalest) gear. B Screw was not adjusted properly

 

[rriveroll]

I need to replace the derailleur cable. Including the cover. Derailleur cable is binding inside the cover. Replaced just cable and still binding so derailleur doesn't back out completely.

Do I need to remove the motor? Any other recommendations

 

[robzee]

Anyone found a solution to the original post?

I have the same exact issue, brand new bike, 50 miles, derailleur is properly adjusted, all is tight.

"Picked up my 2021 Turbo Levo comp last week. During my second ride, I noticed a serious issue with the chain popping when in either of the highest two gears while pedaling hard. It doesn't happen while it's shifting, but long after it's been in gear like every mile or two."

 

[towzer]

May not be related but my levo top jockey wheel seized after 350 miles, that impacted shifting, after an unsuccessful bearing regrease attempt I changed both for hope - noticeably improved shifting.

 

[Mikerb]

Anyone found a solution to the original post?

I have the same exact issue, brand new bike, 50 miles, derailleur is properly adjusted, all is tight.

"Picked up my 2021 Turbo Levo comp last week. During my second ride, I noticed a serious issue with the chain popping when in either of the highest two gears while pedaling hard. It doesn't happen while it's shifting, but long after it's been in gear like every mile or two."

most likely the B tension adjustment. The top jockey wheel is the furthest away from the cogs when in the highest gears. On an Eagle set up the B tension adjustment seems a lot more critical than on a 1x 11. Check that your B tension is correct ( not easy on your own because it needs to be set when the rear shock is at its sag point) then re-check the low limit screw adjustment again. ( jockey wheel in line with the outer edge of the smallest cog).

 

[robzee]

Update...

After 2 cassettes, new derailleur, new chain. Set up by local shop, still having issues with the 2 smallest cogs. Got Specialized involved and here what they had to say in my own words....
2021 Turbo Levo comp

The turbo levo are not design to pedal at low cadence under heavy load with pedal assist motor. In other words, here in Florida, my local trailhead is pretty flat, elevation maybe 150'ish so you run basically on the smallest cog all the time and when you come to a small climb I just carry the momentum in the same gear thus putting stress/load then chain skipping occurs.

The shop loaned me a 2020 Turbo levo expert while my bike is getting repaired and the loaner bike worked flawlessly. Sram GX+ steel cassette. My 2021 came with Shimano slx and the cassette is aluminium I think and I can tell you it is not going back on my bike.

Specialized will swap the shimano for the sram xo and also give me a 36T praxis. Hurray Specialized!

 

[Miru]

Conclusion: Sram>Shimano then?

 

[DtEW]

The shop loaned me a 2020 Turbo levo expert while my bike is getting repaired and the loaner bike worked flawlessly. Sram GX+ steel cassette. My 2021 came with Shimano slx and the cassette is aluminium I think and I can tell you it is not going back on my bike.

The SLX cassette has 11 steel cogs, and 1 aluminum largest cog. The single aluminum cog on the SLX is irrelevant to the issues you are experiencing. No MTB 12-speed cassette uses aluminum (or even titanium) on the smallest two cogs.

I third rriveroll's & Mikerb's suspicion that assuming hanger alignment is fine and L-H end-stops are properly adjusted, the B-tension adjustment would have been the most-likely culprit in the beginning, but allowing it to continue to manifest as an undiagnosed problem for awhile turned it into another problem, specifically that of rounding-out of the smallest cassette cog tips by these violent slips.

Shimano's Hyperglide Plus cassette tooth profiles are more intricately-shaped & relieved than that of SRAM's Powerglide II, and this engineering imbues it with the ability to shift better under higher loads... but I suspect that Hyperglide Plus' higher-engineered nature also makes it less-tolerant to mis-adjustment and abuse, i.e. stronger-and-better when things are sorted-out, but less-tough (maybe even approaching delicate) when things are not. It's almost like it's back to the dichotomy of the stereotypical Japanese/German vs. American engineering of some years ago.

I had the issue you described on both of our '21 Levo Comps as they came from separate LBSs (so a prevalent problem, oddly). Having been indoctrinated on the critical nature of the B-tension adjustment as it relates to SRAM Eagle drivetrains (which I have on a manual bike), and having had the luxury of a week to get the bikes fully-sorted-out (the significant-other is absolutely not mechanically-inclined) prior to hitting the trails in earnest, I found the mis-adjustment in our residential avenues and nipped-it-in-the-bud before we had to tolerate (and in-the-process, exacerbate) the problem in the course of a real ride. I was surprised that the B-tension came mis-adjusted from two separate LBSs, given the criticality of the setting when it came to the SRAM Eagle drivetrains, which had been the hot property on the market for 2 whole years before Shimano finally offered their version of 1x12. It's almost as if they thought it no longer mattered. Or that they were given erroneous guidance as to where it needed to be adjusted-to in some early dealer's manual. Or they were using the SRAM-specific tool, thinking it wouldn't differ much with Shimano?

 

[Mikerb]

I have found that on SRAM cassette/mech, the B stop adjustment differs depending on the age of the chain.....possibly how much sideways flex the chain has as it wears/ how relatively stiff the chain is at new.?
The way I adjust the B stop is by watching the shift from the biggest cog downwards. Typically a B stop adjustment that is too close will cause a delay in downshifting mostly cog 9 down to 8.......or a complete refusal to change down. B stop seems to have little or no effect on shifting from the smallest cog right through to the largest.
So I adjust the B stop as close as just ensures the upper jockey does not bind on the big cog at any point in the suspension travel, then progressively back off the screw to get sweet changing from 10 to 9 to 8.

 

[losgatosgtr]

I am running a shimano xt 12 speed chain with a 12 speed xt rear cassette on my 2019 Levo and the shifting is spectacular. I am using the SRAM 12 speed AXS rear derailleur and adjusted the B tension similar to how shimano would suggest and it works much better than the SRAM 12 speed set up. YMMV

 

[aaronrryan]

I'm having the same issue at the Original poster on my 2021 Levo Comp with the SLX 7100 12 speed groupset.

Hanger is straight, B-screw is adjusted properly. 10t and 12t cog were skipping under load, but shifting is fine on all cogs. So I replaced the Cassette and Chain with 7100 SLX, and it stopped for about 200 miles, and now it is happening again. I got a new XT M8120 wheelset, and it seems to have gotten worse. I replaced the chain again, and it made no difference. Even with the motor off 12t and 10t are slipping. I'm upgrading the 32t chainring to 36t so I can still ride close to 20mph on flats again. Other wise, I'm stuck at 15mph at 90 cadence when not being able to use the 12t or 10t cogs.

I'm very dismayed by this, and wish I didnt buy a new microspline wheelset. I'm guessing that Shimano 12 speed cassettes just cant handle e-bike abuse, well, at least not the 12t and 10t cogs. The rest of the gears and shifting performance has been good. I dont ride very hard, and always try to keep a high cadence, 70 or higher, at all times. So I really try to be easy on my drive train when shifting and just in general.

Has anyone solved this issue by moving to a new wheelset with GX Eagle cassette?

 

[Mikerb]

The chain has the least wrap on the smallest cogs and therefore needs decent mech tension. Try reducing the B tension gap.

 

[aaronrryan]

I created a Slo-Mo video with my GoPro to see what is happening.

 

[Mikerb]

from what I can see the driven part of the chain ( top chain line) is not slipping, the feed onto the cog from the jockey wheel has little or not tension so is feeding the chain from too far back reducing the amount of wrap. I would guess if you ride on a bumpy surface it would hardly grip at all. As I said, reduce the B tension gap and see if that resolves it.

 

[paquo]

I'm having the same issue at the Original poster

chain length ? When i switched to xt there was a specific way to determine this somewhere in the instructions

 

[DtEW]

*see video in the quoted post*

At 0:35-0:36 you can see the chain keep tension on the driven side even with just one tooth holding, while the following links failing to fall into the succeeding teeth. If things were assembled correctly, I'd say those cogs are worn.

That said, you did mention cassette and wheel changes, so I'd also check if the clocking of the loose 12T and 10T cogs are correct. It is entirely possible to get that wrong with the smaller "teeth" of the Microspline, and have the cogs slightly tilted relative to the rest of the cassette. Just taking the wheel off the bike and spinning the cassette on the freewheel while inspecting it edge-on will tell you.

Of course, this is all assuming the hanger is aligned, and the B-tension and H-L are all properly adjusted.

 

[aaronrryan]

The chain has the least wrap on the smallest cogs and therefore needs decent mech tension. Try reducing the B tension gap.

I tried reducing the b-screw by 4 revolutions and that's all that I can go down before it isnt touching anything.
It reduced skipping a little maybe 20%, but then gear shifting is not as smooth. So though it helps, it didn't solve it.

 

[aaronrryan]

chain length ? When i switched to xt there was a specific way to determine this somewhere in the instructions

I checked chain length it is at 6 links extra, which is what the manual recommends 5-6 for Full Suspension.