2 questions about conversion to tubeless

[pagheca]

Hello everyone,

I have been on a business trip and since the availability of MTB tires here is very limited (and the prices very high), I took the opportunity to buy a pair of new tubeless tires for my Trek Powerfly. In fact, I booked a night in transit at a B&B to find that the B&B had a beautiful bike store downstairs where they gave me an absurdly low price on everything. (I'd rather not say the name, for obvious reasons, but I gave them 10/10 on Booking, also because of the absolutely total courtesy and quality of service...)

In the end I bought 1 Maxxis Minion DHF and one Dissector (it should fit), two valves, the tape and the fluid, I hope they are decent quality (I don't go downhill but just MTB and commuting). And around 29 x 2.4 there wasn't much.

Now I ask you: do you suggest to try to do the conversion to tubeless myself? I have good manual dexterity, I am used to doing even quite complex works, but I have just a few tools at home. because I am renting. And I never did it.

Also, the seller told me that to mount them it is better to have a compressor (which I have), but I was wondering: if one punctures while somewhere far from home, even if it happens infrequently compared to tyres with tubes, is it possible to re-inflate a tubeless just with a small pump? I would hate to find myself in the middle of the woods, alone, 20 km from home, with a flat tire and the inability to inflate it....

cheers

 

[Mikerb]

First off your chosen tyre combination is fine. I use that combo for summer riding on one of my bikes. You dont mention whether the tyres are EXO, EXO+ or DD. Exo+ is fine for front and either EXO+ or DD for rear even for fairly rocky conditions......if riding non rocky terrain EXO on both would be fine.
Converting to tubeless is easy providing you follow the process carefully...plenty of online guidance. With regards to puntures, most will self heal without much pressure loss. If there is pressure loss I use Co2 cannisters ( plus adapter) which I carry in a small under saddle Leyzne bag ( does not interfere with a dropper post if you have one). If you get a significant deflation 2 Co2 cannisters will inflate a 2.4 tyre to over 22PSI in seconds. (Pumps tend to get strapped to a bike for monhs on end before they may be needed and then often dont work...or take a long time to achieve any inflation!)
One thing to remember with tubeless is that using sealant is not a fit and forget process. Sealant will need topping up ( through the valve is the easiest way) every 3 months or so....especially in summer and best to completely renew the sealant once a year.

 

[LA_Stu]

I suggest also getting some tubeless tire plugs (often called "bacon strips") - they could be a big help if you get a puncture that's too large for the sealant to seal.

 

[Stihldog]

To avoid any strange looks, Center the air valve to the middle of XX on Maxxis tires. Btw, most tires are directional. Look for a small arrow on the sidewall.

Applying the rim tape is an important step. There’s online helpful tips and hints for that procedure. You may need a tire lever for the final fit of the tire over the rim. Be careful not to score or scratch the rim or rim tape during this step.

A round garbage can help support the wheel. A soapy water mixture can act as a harmless lubricant when you install the tires. You’ll want to hear a pop-pop , which means the tire beads are set as you add air. (Up to 40psi.) Also shows any air leaks after you think you’re done.

Any small leaks might disappear when you roll or shake the sealant around inside the tire.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

To avoid any strange looks, Center the air valve to the middle of XX on Maxxis tires.

I spent so much time getting this perfect. Painstakingly perfect. Then I flipped the tire over only to notice it was off center. The logo on both sides of the tire are slightly off from each other! Now I just get it close to the center and roll on. lol

 

[Stihldog]

I spent so much time getting this perfect. Painstakingly perfect. Then I flipped the tire over only to notice it was off center. The logo on both sides of the tire are slightly off from each other! Now I just get it close to the center and roll on. lol

This drives me crazy also. Besides a deliberate manufacturing sick joke …I blame the lighting or I cover one eye

Ps; I swear…with all the steps and procedures required just to change a tire, we could write a chapter in a DIY book for this task.

 

[steve_sordy]

@pagheca All good advice there. I 100% recommend going tubeless! You will wonder why you never did it earlier!
I went from one flat tyre every 14 miles to not one flat for years and years!! I still got punctures of course, but the sealant worked. I have had three flats over the years. Two were faulty tyres that tore at the bead. The last one was a flat solely because I let the sealant run out, my fault in other words. In all three cases, I was able to fit a tube and carry on.

I'm a bit belt & braces when it comes to flats. Despite my excellent record, I carry the following:
Tyre levers
Pump
Two superlight Tubolito tubes (see pics), in case I absolutely need a tube.
Some self-adhesive tube patches, in case I subsequently puncture the Tubolito.
Some bacon strips (bits of rubber to push into a hole and make it small enough for the sealant to work.
Some self-adesive tyre patches in case the bacon strips don't work.

I bought the Tubolito superlight/superstrong tubes when I got my second emtb. It was a mullet and I needed two spare inner tubes. They were huge and heavy. See below for the comparison. each Tubolito weighs about 30g, about one tenth of the tube weight and as you can see, considerably smaller!

In case you think that this lot is too much, think of it as your talisman. A talsiman that will prevent all future tyre problems occurring on the trail. I KNOW that as soon as I ditch any part of that lot, I WILL need it. And it will be raining and cold, and I'll be far from home! I bought the Tubolitos almost 3 years ago and I've never had to use them.

 

[Montana St Alum]

YouTube has very helpful info. Doing it yourself should be a breeze. The tape should be slightly wider than the inner width of the rim. Maxxis tires, IME, hold air very well. In fact, I usually mount them without sealant initially. They rarely lose any air and if they do, it's usually at the valve and this provides a quality check on my tape/valve installation. When you install the valve, push in on the inside of the rim while tightening the screw holding it by hand. That helps it seat well and if you have to remove it, pressing in while loosening is easier as well. It would be unusual for the Maxxis tires you have to leak air without sealant. The sealant is necessary to stop leaks from small holes of course (as in thorns and such) but those tires should hold air just sitting for a few days.
Because the valve cores are removeable, if you have a screw on pump head, removing it can sometimes loosen the core, so check that after inflation and pump removal. I also use CO2 cartridges and tubolito tubes for emergencies, like a tear that bacon/sealant can't fix.

Tubeless is a good way to go. I've been using it for about 20 years. Utah can be pretty hard on tires. When I first started using tubeless, I burped a tire in Moab, but the system (sidewalls and such) has improved. Other than that burp, I've never flatted.

If you do keep stuff in an under-seat bag, lower the dropper all the way and let the air out of the shock to completely lower into the travel. That way you'll know if the tire will be in contact with the bag while riding with the seat down, even on drops.

Also, I really like the DHF, but if you have never ridden it up front, just be aware that there is a small "vague zone" as you tilt the bike over to turn. There's a gap in the tread prior to engaging the side knobs. Some people don't like that, but after a short while (like 20 turns maybe) you get used to it. But, initially it can be a surprise.

 

[pagheca]

I am overwhelmed by all the responses, suggestions, etc.! THANK YOU ALL!!!

I am now trying to digest all the information before doing the job, and looking at the video material I can find around, as suggested by some of you. And by the way, both tires are marked EXO TR (Tubeless Ready), 60 TPI, WT.

The front is 29 x 2.50 and the rear is 29 x 2.60. They should fit in the original 29 x 2.40. But I couldn't really understand what the mix was. I couldn't really understand the information here: Bike Technology and also couldn't find where the mix is stated on the tire. Any help?

I am not fast or young, and I have limited experience with MTB. I like the technical challenge (at low speed) up and downhill more than going downhill at high speed (and breaking myself into a thousand pieces... ).

The ground in many parts of the island consists of recent lava rocks and is therefore very sharp and very steep.

 

[BeBiker]

Short manual:
* Have compressor
* Have tubeless valves, tape and liquid
* Have tyres that were mounted and inflated on some rim for at least 24H
* Mount the tyre on the rim, one side
* Pour le liquid in, 60-120mL
* Put the second side of the tyre on the rim
* Inflate without core, valve not pointing to the ground
* Put core in valve
* Inflate

This takes +-15 minutes

 

[pagheca]

fantastic short summary, thanks!

I repeat a question that was buried deeply in my previous comment: I couldn't really understand what the mix of my new Maxxis tires is. I couldn't really understand the information here: Bike Technology and also couldn't find where the mix is stated on the tire.

Any help?

 

[Stihldog]

Short manual:
* Put core in valve

I CAN’T!
I’m one of those weirdo’s who uses Filmore valves.

All good points though

 

[Montana St Alum]

I couldn't really understand what the mix of my new Maxxis tires is.....also couldn't find where the mix is stated on the tire.

Any help?

Sorry, what do you mean by the term 'mix"?

 

[Montana St Alum]

Short manual:
* Have compressor
* Have tubeless valves, tape and liquid
* Have tyres that were mounted and inflated on some rim for at least 24H
* Mount the tyre on the rim, one side
* Pour le liquid in, 60-120mL
* Put the second side of the tyre on the rim
* Inflate without core, valve not pointing to the ground
* Put core in valve
* Inflate

This takes +-15 minutes

The only thing I change is that I mount the tire without sealant initially, just spraying soapy water to ease installation. That kind of takes the place of mounting on something for 24 hours. Just wait overnight, inflated, to detect leaks.
I find it's a little less messy.
Also, if there's a flaw in the tape or valve installation, or if I damaged the tape, I'd rather find that out without sealant as it's easier to pop the tire off - again, just less messy - and fix the problem. Then I inject through the valve.
Also I've never found it necessary to mount

 

[Stihldog]

Sorry, what do you mean by the term 'mix"?

EXO, DD etc?
Assigia, Minion, Disector?
Sealant type?
Fresh air or stale air?

 

[BassNut]

Just my 2 cents worth…. Went tubeless a couple of years back and it was great, until one time 7 miles from home got a flat, tyre came off rim and I lost all the sealant. Since then I have converted to slime tubes. Best of both worlds and to be honest a lot less of a faff repairing out on the trail. Keep a spare tube with me that effectively doesn’t go off for a couple of years if needed. Much easier to get a tyre back on and inflated.

 

[Stihldog]

I’ve only ridden on a flat once. I didn’t really notice until I got home. But I likely burped my rear tire on some rocks. The CushCore Pro probably helped.

I may have had other punctures also but the sealant probably did its job.

 

[pagheca]

First off your chosen tyre combination is fine. I use that combo for summer riding on one of my bikes. You dont mention whether the tyres are EXO, EXO+ or DD. Exo+ is fine for front and either EXO+ or DD for rear even for fairly rocky conditions......if riding non rocky terrain EXO on both would be fine.

Sorry, what do you mean by the term 'mix"?

I was referring to the question quoted above. Actually, are both EXO, but I didn't really understand if this say everything about the mateiral used for the tyres.

 

[Mikerb]

I was referring to the question quoted above. Actually, are both EXO, but I didn't really understand if this say everything about the mateiral used for the tyres.

No it doesnt. There are 3 variants that describe the way a tyre is constructed and protected from punctures/damage. Not all tyre brands give that information but for Maxxis tyres those are:
Tyre rubber compound ........Max Terra , Max Grip, Max Speed. Max Grip being the stickiest softest rubber potentially offering the best grip especially over rock slabs, rock gardens, roots etc. The downside being it also wears much quicker because it is a softer rubber. Max Terra is a harder rubber compound. Just to add a little more complexity Maxxis also offer 3C construction which means 3 different compounds are used on different layers of the tread or different parts of the tread.
Carcass Ply.........the carcass is constructed using a string like material captured in the rubber....usually diagonally across the tyre wall. On MTB tyres that thread is Nylon. Typical Ply is 60 or 120 threads per inch ( TPI). The 120 TPI uses finer threads than 60 TPI.......in essence a 120 TPI tyre is more compliant, a 60 TPI tyre is more robust and often dual ply.
Protection.........this is what the terms EXO EXO + Double Down and Downhill refer to. Each consists of different materials and degrees of use of those materials under the tread and on the side walls of the tyre...all designed to resists punctures and tears. Exo being the most basic in that list and DH being the most comprehensive. Tyre weight invariably increases with increased protection so there is a trade off.

 

[Montana St Alum]

^^^
Given your (OP) terrain with really abrasive rock, harder rubber and more sidewall protection would be a good idea.
Initially, with my emtb, I went with Turbolight inserts. I didn't care for them. They act like tokens in a fork, displacing air and firming up the ride. In my case, after a month, I pulled the tires off (which was very difficult, as the bead is held in place by the insert. Breaking the bead to remove the tire required a lot of pressure, Vs. without the insert. I wouldn't have been able to remove it on the trail.). Also, the churning caused all of my Orange sealant to coagulate, so there was no free latex available to fill a hole. It's the first time I've ever gotten orange "Stanimals!".
Another brand may not have these problems.
The upside is that with many inserts, you can run the tires flat.

 

[pagheca]

No it doesnt. There are 3 variants that describe the way a tyre is constructed and protected from punctures/damage. Not all tyre brands give that information but for Maxxis tyres those are:

The problem is how to identify which one is used for the tires I purchased. I looked at Bike Technology but I couldn't find a clear mark on my tires that would tell me which one of the three.

Maybe I missed something... I don't know.

 

[Mikerb]

The problem is how to identify which one is used for the tires I purchased. I looked at Bike Technology but I couldn't find a clear mark on my tires that would tell me which one of the three.

Maybe I missed something... I don't know.

The compound , protection tyre diameter and width details are printed on the sidewall of the tyre. You need to refer to your tyre on the Maxxis website to see other details like TPI

 

[Montana St Alum]

The problem is how to identify which one is used for the tires I purchased. I looked at Bike Technology but I couldn't find a clear mark on my tires that would tell me which one of the three.

Maybe I missed something... I don't know.

It looks like your tire has no compound material (3C, Maxterra, etc.) listed, so I expect it's the DC (Dual Compound) version. The sidewall protection is EXO (EXO+ and DD are more protective). TR, of course, means tubeless ready.

This tire shows all of the info on a non-DC compound tire:

 

[pagheca]

The compound , protection tyre diameter and width details are printed on the sidewall of the tyre. You need to refer to your tyre on the Maxxis website to see other details like TPI

I did it. I also reported all the marks I found on the tyre in my post #9 on this thread, but I couldn't actually understand which type of mix.

 

[pagheca]

It looks like your tire has no compound material (3C, Maxterra, etc.) listed, so I expect it's the DC (Dual Compound) version. The sidewall protection is EXO (EXO+ and DD are more protective). TR, of course, means tubeless ready.

This tire shows all of the info on a non-DC compound tire:
View attachment 144801

interesting... So, you say by default the compound is DC.

Thanks, mystery solved! But why it is so difficult for Maxxis to explain this clearly?

 

[Montana St Alum]

interesting... So, you say by default the compound is DC.

Thanks, mystery solved! But why it is so difficult for Maxxis to explain this clearly?

I'm still trying to say my bike's name in one breath! Giant Trance X Advanced E+ Elite 3. THAT'S some bullshit. I wouldn't say the Dual Compound is the "default", but it is odd that they don't list that on the tire. It's just one of the options available.

 

[filwud]

Hello everyone,

I have been on a business trip and since the availability of MTB tires here is very limited (and the prices very high), I took the opportunity to buy a pair of new tubeless tires for my Trek Powerfly. In fact, I booked a night in transit at a B&B to find that the B&B had a beautiful bike store downstairs where they gave me an absurdly low price on everything. (I'd rather not say the name, for obvious reasons, but I gave them 10/10 on Booking, also because of the absolutely total courtesy and quality of service...)

In the end I bought 1 Maxxis Minion DHF and one Dissector (it should fit), two valves, the tape and the fluid, I hope they are decent quality (I don't go downhill but just MTB and commuting). And around 29 x 2.4 there wasn't much.

Now I ask you: do you suggest to try to do the conversion to tubeless myself? I have good manual dexterity, I am used to doing even quite complex works, but I have just a few tools at home. because I am renting. And I never did it.

Also, the seller told me that to mount them it is better to have a compressor (which I have), but I was wondering: if one punctures while somewhere far from home, even if it happens infrequently compared to tyres with tubes, is it possible to re-inflate a tubeless just with a small pump? I would hate to find myself in the middle of the woods, alone, 20 km from home, with a flat tire and the inability to inflate it....

cheers

View attachment 144638


View attachment 144642

I have xr3 team issue tubeless on my trek firefly 7, the rear exploded recently, sidewall damage made the layers part and finally fail, it was unrepairable, I put a new one on ,but removing the old one was a job, I had to take it to local shop to show me how it's done. I carry large internal patches and the needle tube to plug holes too big for the sealant, I run them at 40psi ISH, I sometimes carry a couple of little co2 canisters andand valve adapter for them, saves a lot of pumping