I would think so. I pulled my dropper out of the seat tube and disconnected the cable. The cable and housing seem to be free to slide inside the frame, I would bet they would pull out the front. Perhaps the cable knob might get stuck, a good bet would be to cut it off before pulling.
Did this work out without dropping the motor or adjusting the cable housing? I want to go from the 125mm dropper in my LTD to a 175mm and try to figure out if this is a straight swap or will I need to drop the motor and monkey with the cable and housing.
Went from a 700w Levo to a Rise, very happy with the trade. I find the Rise much more engaging like an analog bicycle, meaning pedaling effort and cadence produce an intoxicating but natural feeling performance reward, whereas the Levo was more artificial assist. Oddly, despite the massive...
I'm using ST-Ride. I use an old iPhone and Apple watch I had laying around. I have used this combo for about a dozen rides now and its been rock solid reliable.
The feel is different from a Rise at 85Nm vs Levo at 90Nm. I have both and the Rise encourages faster cadence to get the motor torque, so you are mentally trying to keep the Rise in the sweet spot, you work harder and are more engaged.
I have found that my same ride (1600ft climb and 14mi) with the Levo 700wh battery leaves about 35% remaining, while the Rise is about the same stock but takes more rider effort. SInce buying the Rise I never rode the Levo again, sold it yesterday.
My experience with STunlocker on a recent purchased Rise is... With IOS Bluetooth you don't need to downrev the FW to increase the profile power settings or the watt limits. I emailed the SW author and he suggested using the WIndows app with the Shimano cable interface. But I only used the...