No issues here, and I have changed my shock a lot.
My one fear with most Treks is all the custom hardware. I intend to buy spares for all the custom bit, for just this situation.
If you can, you might get your torque wrench checked. Also, dry threads as well as overly locktited threads and make...
+1 on coil option. Not only do you get coil, you get adjustability from 150-170.
At a minimum though, check your stock fork for the number of tokens. Mine came with 3 installed and just removing them made it much better.
Regarding the Float X. If you feel the shock has too much compression...
I switched to e*thirteen Helix Race E*spec 160mm. One benefit of getting new crank arms was that they have self extracting bolts.
Went to the 160mm, stayed for the easier on/off.
Where I live, it is so wet so much of the year, I put invisiframe over the entire display. I worry less about water than the mud and scratching up the display. The bubble around the button goes away after several days.
Looks like a round of TQ updates are on the way.
Curious what "Reduction of the maximum assist speed per mode in the App by the customer (within the legal requirements)." will mean in real life.
Also curious if the trek app will be ready for the updates when they are available.
I am struggling with that right now. I have the OneUp v2 back installed and working fine. Unless I make a change that requires a seat height adjustment, I could be 1-2 years until I need to pull it out to do a full service and replace cables.
I am leaning towards staying with the OneUp. We'll...
This is the TranzX EDP01, rebranded. I have one and I like it although it's busted and been sent back.
The cover over the button on the post fell off and it stopped working. Support has been pretty responsive so far. Just sent it back on Saturday.
$397us/299brit lbs is a great price.
Upsides...
Anyone having their drive chainring bolt loosen? This is the 3rd time in 1200 miles that a creak has developed that turned out to be the Drive chainring bolt. It's torqued to 50nm each time but still comes loose after 400 miles.
Full power is only 300 Watts. At (guessing) 48v, the max current draw would be 6.25amps. A single 18650 battery cell is capable of up to 20A continuous discharge. All seems reasonable.
There kind of is no headset, just bearings and a top cap and a crown race.
I run a tall top cap and use shims to that the seals barely contact the frame. I use a Cane Creak stainless crown racer.
Top bearing: FSA: Type: TH-873E ACB 36°x45° MR122 for 1 1/8" - IS41
Outer diameter: 41mm
Inner...
It's working well. Not super plush, but very controlled. I am using all the travel though, compared to the stock float X. The Vivid came with a c34 shim stack. When I have it serviced, I will have it changed to a c26 shim stack to lower the range of the compression adjustments.
It's working fine. No issues beyond being kinda of slow and no distinct topout clunk. I live in the northwest and my bike gets hosed down after just about every ride and it's taking that abuse just fine. I charge the post once a week and it is possible to install the battery so that it won't...
I developed a creak but only when putting power into the drive side pedal. It was a loose chainring bold. I was shocked at how loose it was.
The locknut says 30nm but manual says 50nm. I am guessing I did 30 last time. Will try 50 this time.