It was an h15, had been carbon it may not have survived, there was a gap as well of about 2 mm and it looked like it’d be OK but rub during cornering with the rear flex
When I tried the rotor cut into the frame at the chainstay. If you zoom in on the pic from my post 4 spots earlier, you can see where I covered the damage with a sticker.
Glad it worked out for you. No power reading is the only thing I didn't like with Shimano ep8 which most other motors do. Kinda like Bosch missing on not allowing GPS connectivity w/ Garmin etc. Each motor has its quirks.
Technically no, as Enduro bikes are typically longer travel than the Rise in stock form. you can obviously extend travel but if you are unfamiliar with bike geo, you can ruin the geo for your riding style. The new Rise has a much stiffer frame, The Original frame has a flexy rear end which can...
Did you know that almost every other manufacturers enduro bikes are also rated Class 4. Canyon Strive, Yeti 160e, Spesh Enduro, Yeti 160, and many others. The only class 5 I've found so far is the Wild.....which is why I bought one too.
I ran my 2022 Rise H with a 180mm Fox 38, Cascade Link and a 8.5" x 2.5" FoX DHX2 with 1 offset bushing. Travel was 180mm F/177 R. I just bought a 2024 Wild and my "Enduro" Rise was more plush than my Wild but Wild has a much more stable frame, especially on the rear end.
Since it only comes with a 750 or 625wh hr battery you would have to fabricate all of the internal mounts to make it fit. Possible if ur an engineer with a 3D printer but not sure why you'd want to unless you're a really small light rider and the bike is too heavy with the 625.
It was a base M11 AXS but I Upgraded To Fox Factory 170/X2, XT Brakes,. When I got it home I swapped post/saddle to Reverb/Specialized Power, swapped wheels & Tires, then bar/grips, then to the Tigon