Search results

The Zeb has a 200mm post mount specification, not 203mm. If it’s a Hope adaptor, you’ll likely want HBMP for the 220mm rotor.

Ah, the Zeb fork has 200mm post mount specification. Magura doesn't make an adaptor for 220mm rotor on 200mm post mount. The QM40 might work in this case, since it's for 180mm rotor on 160mm post mount (+20mm).

Your Rail 9 has a Lyrik fork on it? If so, you’ll want Magura QM45 adaptors for the front and rear, to accommodate the 220mm rotors on the 180mm post mounts.

A Bontrager Knock Block stem is compatible with the OneUp system. You need to confirm your fork steerer tube meets all of the OneUp installation requirements, if that hasn’t already been checked.

My Rail 9.7 was delivered in Low and this is how it's stayed up until now. I just switched to High but have not spent any time on it yet in this position. My initial pedal strikes were just slightly annoying. However, now that I'm riding the bike a bit harder, I have experienced pedal drag...

I installed 160mm aluminum e*spec arms on my Rail 9.7. At the end of my first ride (~24 miles), the driveside arm was wobbly loose while the non-driveside arm bolt was just in need of tightening. I contacted e*thirteen to inform them of the situation, stating I had used the original...

I’ve got a 9.7 but installed a pair of the e*thirteen aluminum arms. It appears they provided the wrong part number for the Park tool in the instructions. The CCP-22 tool is for square-taper type crank arms and not compatible. The CCP-44 tool is the correct one for splined ISIS type.

The angle of the bearing interface has to match, but it's pretty standard since the bearing specifications aren't unique for the Knock Block headset. I've used 1.5" races from FSA with UPCs: 400310034113 400310019905 Personally, I've got a proper tool for race installation. However, I'd...

And if that proves too much of a challenge, or if the race is damaged in the process, I’ve replaced my original with an aluminum 1.5” race from FSA. Cane Creek also has a suitable replacement, but not identical to the original...obviously.

Not two "left", just "left" on right and "right" on left. I switch them up since I have my brake lever clamp mounted far enough in on the bar that I need the adaptor offset to be positioned so the shifter and/or dropper remote are close enough to the grip for my thumb to properly reach.

I have experience with that specific item, when used on Shimano I-Spec II brake lever with SRAM shifter and/or compatible dropper remote lever. This adaptor will NOT work for the Magura lever, as it's designed to replace the plastic shim removed from a Shimano I-Spec II lever.

Good luck with that!

I think what you’re asking for is the Magura Shiftmix for SRAM. Personally, I use the “left” Shiftmix on the right lever and typically get a set to also mount my OneUp dropper remote lever.

Did you consider the leg (length) difference might have something to do with comparing a 27.5" Lyrik to a 29" Yari?

I finally installed a 36 on my Medium size, carbon Rail with the Cane Creek +6mm race. This effectively had a gain of 6.8mm over the stock (FSA) race. While the air cap cleared the downtube, the compression adjustment knobs still make contact. I'm not sure the additional 1.7mm the Reverse...

I was surprised to find how easy it was to remove the nut on the new bike, fresh out of the box. It didn’t feel like it was anywhere near the torque amount recommended by the brand for the ring I installed in place of the stock unit. Make sure to check your nuts, folks!

Oh, got it. I saw the Shimano brake in the pic and wasn’t thinking of previous surface contact with DOT fluid was a possibility. I agree it’s that, and not the protective film. It doesn’t sound like a paint warranty situation, since the issue with DOT fluid is well known, but something that...

It'll be interesting to hear if Trek has comment on the addition of the protective film. Is that something you applied, or did a shop handle that? If it was a shop, I wonder if they have any thoughts on the paint issue.

I have experience with shock fitting on the carbon Rail frame. It is not offset. For the aluminum frame, it’s been suggested previously that it is also not offset.

Sure, RockShox hardware can be used in a FOX shock, with the addition of eyelet bushings being required items to make it compatible. Beyond that, the kit you’ve referenced is for a Session frame that has an offset design; the Rail does NOT use an offset.