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My take... If it happened in the first few miles after riding the bike out the shop, or on your first ride, yes take it back, get the lockring tightened. But after 500 miles of hard riding offroad, it's down to you to check for anything coming loose. That doesn't mean the shop won't help you...

Did Rutland say why the chainring needed replacing? Perhaps it was damaged by the lock ring being loose rather than wear? <Edit> Ignore, I see it's not a one-piece chainring. If it was me I'd get it back, see if it rides and shifts OK, and then plan your upgrades/downgrades ?

And another...

Yes, an eMTB is putting more load on your transmission. But if you have some mechanical sympathy (don't shift under load), keep an eye on your chain wear and replace that early, you can usually increase the life of the chainrings and cassette. The other approach is to just let it all wear out...

They're consumables unless there's an obvious manufacturing fault that you spot straight away. I get thousands of miles out of my drivetrains, so YMMV as they say.

Well, it wouldn't have helped if you did lots of miles with your chainring loose. Given that they're waiting on the SRAM chainring anyway, I'd get it sent back (was it skipping?), check the chain wear and then sort yourself? They've quoted you for a £50 KMC e-bike chain. I've never felt the...

My thought process was.... - What bikes/brands have I ridden that I like - What brands do the local bike shops I use stock - Is my current riding XC, Trail, Enduro, DH? Although you can kinda move up a class with eMTBs. I'm XC/Trail, but ride a 160mm Trail/Enduro. - Any motor preference? I...

I've given up with rear guards as they are worse for clogging up in clay/chalk than having nothing at all. The ones that mount on the seat post high up would work I guess.

Don't see the point really - just stick it in the classifieds on a few MTB web sites. Mine I decided to stump up the eBay fees in return for a bit of a bidding war.

Oh yeah. Didn't read the ad, he's just trying to avoid the fees on 9 grand. Prob someone on here ?

Just report the listing, read the title. Misrepresentation. I sold a full suss on eBay earlier in the year. A bidder contacted me asking why I was also selling it on shpock. Turns out somebody had screen-grabbed all my pics and was listing it for sale. What was weirder though was my bidder...

I think the OP's concern was about the sensor-shift image stabilisation that you only get on the 12 Pro, and if it's more fragile. Can't find anything conclusive online - a few mentions of cameras with this but nothing concrete...

Same. Phone in those pockets in the Summer. Outside chest pocket on an Endura softshell jacket in the Winter. The phone is officially water-resistant I think, so it gets a bit damp and steamed up but not had a problem.

My gen 4 is as expected - knocks when you freewheel over rough ground. I'd get the motor checked if you are sure it's the motor. Battery rattle?

You can usually isolate a noise by moving around on the bike. Stand up/sit down/feet off the pedals that sort of stuff. I'd be thinking headset or motor bolts.

Ah OK. Yep, my alu Hope freehub body is marked but works fine. Got thousands of (human-power) miles on that. Cheapie Formula one that came with my eeb is unmarked after 400 miles, so no probs yet ??

Can you give a slightly longer version? What breaks?

I have a few 3-point ones. Park and Pedros do them. Usually around £10-15 from memory.

My 12sp GX (NX cassette) is wearing fine, it's just more than I need I reckon. A tough, 10-speed setup with a lower profile rear mech and cheap chains would be perfect I reckon. Also, prefer Shimano shifting, SRAM always a bit clunky IMO.

No experience, but it's what Hope use on their Fortus 30 with a steel freehub body.