We have to recognise that we are paying the price for being early adopters, while the industry is going through major transition.
Electric vehicles (EV) in general are relatively new market segment and actually we — e-bike-riders — are the beneficiaries of advances in batteries and BMS.
Also...
Very interesting ZF, which ones work better for you?
Visually, I prefer the Chester shape, as I place my foot more forward on the pedal, in comp to a road-bike. However, Rockbros has more spikes and really works well with my riding boots, so I will leave it as is for now.
Yea, mine are working very well. I like the surface-grip — my feet are firmly glued to the pedals.
The pedals didn’t spin freely out the box and I treat them with WD40 now and then. I am satisfied as long as they spin when I direct a water nozzle when I wash the bike.
They also make an x-wide...
Come back and tell us what you found and how you fixed it.
Hard to compare, but on my 500W motor, if I set the assistance to 20% I can theoretically get 100km range, as I have done 52km and I had 54% battery left.
With assistance at 70% I get 60km range, when I use +100% assistance it drains...
Intellectually I agree with you - I drive cars for 5-7 - years and I intended to buy an eMTB for 5-10 years, but new shiny model was released and I just had to have it :)
I am not concerned about battery and motor replacement, by the time they are obsolete, we will find inexpensive clones made...
You will get more scientific feedback from more experienced riders. I will offer two observations:
1. Do resistance training during off-bike days. I do squats, push-ups and pull-ups first thing in the morning from Mon to Sat. On Sunday morning, I ride [emoji41]
2. I don’t like the skinny grips...
Leave the Power at 500W max, it is a factory setting for all modes, at least on my bike.
If you set it below, like I did, you might get E010 errors and cut-outs.
Also, connect with the e-Tube (Shimano App) and set your Eco mode to the low setting. You will see on STunlocker that it is 20%...
Slightly off topic but relevant to BMS. I am convinced that my battery is in a better shape than specified by BMS and reported by STunlocker.
I have customised my motor using e-Tube app to Low-Low-Med:
This translates to 20% — 70% — 200% assist:
Today I went for a 52km ride at ave 22.3km/h...
My battery health dropped to 85% at 30 cycles, from 87% at 29 cycles.
I have not done anything outrageous to drop 3% in one cycle. I suspect the BMS is rather flaky.
Check this (somewhat traumatic) thread. Some good alternatives, and fair amount of ‘health & safety warnings’.
Carrying a spare battery tip. - EMTB Forums
I changed the rear to (Hans) 27.5x2.8.
The front stays on (OEM) Assegai 29x2.6, as it does have excellent grip, where I ride, i.e. mud, gravel, loose leaves and tree-roots, in the woods.
I replaced my rear (slashed sidewall) Maxxis Assegai 27.5x2.6 with Schwalbe Hans 27.5x2.8 and I like it!
Interestingly enough the Assegai x2.6 had more grip in deep mud and on loose gravel.
I am told Hans is better on a dry surface. I find it spins easier on loose gravel while climbing uphill...
Thanks @Mikerb for the intel
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