Search results

Been running my homemade/3D printed ‘Laylo’ mount for a few rides now. Very much improved location for protection and reduced clutter. No problem switching modes riding, not that I fiddle with them very much.

Yep, it’s not a cheap pastime, but then what technology based recreation is? You live in Wellington which has a few reasonable surf breaks - I can attest to the much more affordable nature of that sport, esp if you have an EV or hybrid

I’d also be pissed at Giant if I was in that situation and they fobbed off a known design flaw as the rider’s fault (downtube crack).

Thanks KB. It’s a random rock situation here in NZ, rather than continuous rock geology unless I’m in Central Otago where that terrain is more common. I weigh 98kg in gear and I try not to slam rocks, but sometimes it’s hard to avoid when jumping off a feature. My Rail is my first electric mtb...

Dinged my Rail stock back rim good tonight - time to fit that Big Betty DH and ditch the stock rubber. Is there much less protection with a DH casing than a lightweight casing and an insert? Better grip and feel with an insert?

Possibly. Applied inside the downtube won’t ‘mask’ a crack, but might help prevent it. Are the majority just dumping their bikes when warranty expires?

Has anyone thought about putting a layer of reinforced epoxy over the joint to maybe prevent movement or is everyone just waiting for the crack and using warranty?

I thought I had, but looking back I’ve only got a couple of overview pics. The joint is quite accessible and separated from the lower battery plate. I’ll do the epoxy reinforcement when I next pop the motor out.

+1 to the other comments - I've never replaced a headset bearing in 20yrs of mtbing. If you clean and re-grease them once or twice a year (depending on riding conditions/washing habits); they'll last the life of the bike. Open wheel bearings like Shimano's cup/cone require more regular...

What sort of insurance are you talking about? ebike crash cover? In NZ there’s no actual specified limit, but rather a power limit is specified for road use. So I have a factory spec”d 45kmph Giant Quick E+ commuter and a 32kmph Rail. Removing the Rail speed limiter won’t infringe any rule.

I had the motor out yesterday and had a thought when looking at the sleeved joint inside the downtube: Why not put a layer of JB Weld across the joint right around the inside of the downtube? It wouldn’t get in the way, it’s out of sight and it may help to prevent that joint moving? The joint...

Yep, 30km of stonking good dirt tonight - just as noisy as before; damper boot makes no difference. Also removed the motor and checked the bracket screws this afternoon - all looked fine. Added some dielectric grease to the plugs and silicon spray for additional water resistance. Bike goes...

Thanks - seems odd there’s not a rework/field notice for what appears to be a design failure.

So it's recommended to replace the mounting bracket screws semi-regularly? Are folks using a higher tensile material screw?

4th motor! That’s depressing.. Bad design, bad luck or bad management?

Hmm. Either they fixed it in 2022, or you don’t ride bumpy trails while coasting….

Battery knocking? Was the RIB not adjusted properly?

I found there’s not much difference between the 2021 XL and the new geo 2022 L frame dimensions - same wheelbase and the older geo XL has 6mm more reach. I’m 179cm and the 2021 XL fits very well with a short stem.

Dampen the movement between the secondary motor gears and the crank gears when coasting

Made a rubber damper in the same vein as the Shimano/Orbea one. Provides enough friction to allow back-pedal chain movement (but it still has some slip). Initial testing shows the rattle is still present, but more testing is required to see if it's reduced to any significant degree...