Every bum has a saddle to fit it. Once I found "the one" (SQ Lab 611) I've stuck with it and not looked back.
I've never found a shop that offers "test tide" saddles, but I can understand why they don't. Prior to settling on the 611 I rode several different saddles (an expensive pain in the...
I have owned, and currently own many SQ Lab 611 saddles. I have bent "active" models but never (knocks on wood) a non-active s-tube model. Obviously each riders experience differs but I'm a firm believer in SQLab saddles. Bummer you've had a poor experience with them
The way I look at it is this:
Just because you have an e-mtb doesn't mean you have to ride your friends into the ground. Ride at whatever their pace is
For me, I've been on mountain bikes since the commercial dawn of the sport in the early 1980's, so as far as I'm concerned: I've been...
E-bar is pre-drilled for wired controller and has a different damping/flex character vs the standard bars to account for the greater weight of the emtb.
FWIW, I've used both and been happy with both.
I've got short legs (30" inseam) so I've never been fond of long cranks. I put 155mm 5Dev on my Rise and absolutely love them. Pedal strikes have essentially disappeared and I am seeing no downsides.
I'm planning on a Rise LT for next year and that bike will either get these 5Devs transplanted...
Per Orbea Rise Hydro 2023 blue paper, page 49, max chainring size is 34t. Min is 30t.
https://orbea.dash.app/browse/5173d995-b087-4859-810d-6889ae377bab?portal=orbea-manuals
Measuring your sits bones is a good place to start. That will help you determine a width that will fit you best. There are you tube videos on how to do it.
After that it is, unfortunately, trial and error. I tried many saddles and ended I with an Sqlab 611 (non active). They look "odd" but...
New bike levers are set "outboard" or closer to the end of the bar because it's the easiest thing for the shop employee to do during the initial build setup (time = money). It's assumed/ understood that the rider will move the controls to the position that suits them best during the purchase or...
Everyone has a bum, but every bum is shaped differently. I've tried many different saddles over the years. For me the winner has been the SQLab 611 (non-ergo wave). They look a bit different, but at least for me, are the most comfortable.
Fit tip: Measure your sit bones before ordering a...
My Rise has headset routing. I'm happy i have the bike (I think.... I got a phenomenal deal on it so I looked "beyond" the headset routing). I'm looking forward to when the snow and ice melts so I can actually ride it! :LOL:
All that said, I would have preferred traditional routing
I'd be willing to bet the fork CSU is failing. The fork stanchions or the steerer tube are "loose"* in the fork crown itself. The stanchions and steerer tube are press fit into the crown itself, and one these tubes (or many of them) have developed play, and that's the creaking you're hearing...
You can either purchase and install the EN600 components (which enable Bluetooth and e-tube), or bring the bike to a shop to physically plug their shop e-tube computer into the bike.
If you go to the support section on Orbea's website you can download the manual (bluepaper) for your Kemen. It...
If you want to go with a non-Orbea stem you'll need the Orbea part "universal collector sic no-spb hs02-06 + grommets". This will allow you to run any stem you want, but eliminates the Spin Block (your M-Team has through the headset cable routing and the standard stem + spacers incorporate Spin...
The bobbing is more due to the 1-1/4" hitch than the rack itself. There's not a lot to a 1-1/4" hitch. Try to figure out the tongue weight limit for your hitch. That's most likely the limit you're closest to and why you're getting bounce
I've got a 1up Equip'd single and an older SD Double...