I'm surprised that none of the bike manufacturers have made a 'proper' job of flex blades. High end single-seater racing cars have had titanium blade 'pivots' for years now. With some clever design on bikes they could even perform the job of the spring as well as locating the wheel.
I hot wax my chains but I need to go to a lower temperature formula for winter because in really cold weather the rollers 'freeze' and skid on the cassette teeth, rather than rolling as they should.
I won't be going back to oil though, for sure.
The mount that Mondraker use is much nicer than the crappy Bosch 'P-clip' style.
I'm wondering if it's rattling around and causing the failures.
Also, are your wheel bearings good and it's not the disc magnet hitting the sensor?
I have some BOSE glasses with speakers in and I absolutely love them. You can hear traffic adequately, take calls etc etc.
I found earbuds to be too insulatory from the outside world (bike noises as well as traffic)
I've wondered about doing a full replacement loom for these you know Stu? I've bought the proper crimp tool for the contacts inside the motor to allow me to make the wires long enough (without joints) to have the connectors in the top of the downtube, completely out of the way.
The wire that you call blue is purple.
That can be removed. The thin black wire which goes up to the same connector as the purple can also be removed.
The green and brown ones that branch off to the charge port can be removed.
The thick black wire going to the charge port can be cut. Instead of making a new crimp joint, it's easier for you to unclip the contact from the white power connector going to the motor and put some sealing heat shrink over the existing crimp.
Same for the yellow and the skinny purple.
The...
What I like about my GLP-2 is the lightness of the front end, which helps when getting over big tech and very steep downhill, because the mass is further back and lower down than most bikes.
I'm hoping to get to the Alps myself this summer if I can. 🤞
I've moved the speed sensor to the dropout as well, with an integrated disc magnet.
I used the extra compact sensor and mount as used on a Mondraker Crafty.
The purple wire going up to the red jst connector is 36v+ when powered by the battery.
I assume that, since there doesn't appear to be a use for a low-current 36v output, that it's to power the system up in the absence of battery output. It could be used during programming and diagnosis...