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That might indeed be the case and that would mean that once the led is green, the charger can be unplugged as there is no reason to leave it plugged in (although, nor would it harm to leave it overnight). I try to remember to use a power meter (not sure of the English word for it) the next time...

As long as you don't wrap the diodes in big chunk on heat shrink that insulates it totally, I wouldn't worry a bit. This is what the manufacturer says: The key word there is "continuous". One needs to note that the moments, when a range extender is in use, then in practice you are having two...

This is probably the easiest way to tell: The cap part is basically empty and while it's quite tight fit for the cell structure on the other end, I would say that leaving out the black plastic cell spacers (can be seen in the soldering photo) and building the cell structure again and directly...

(I'm not an electrical engineer - if someone wiser than me notices something wrong in my text, I'd appreciate to be corrected) First things first: normally the li-ion chargers are stupid. I mean by this that they just provide a certain amount of max. current at some voltage and I assume it is...

Sorry, I was reading the thread by phone so missed the earlier messages. Yes, if you buy a ready-made battery bottle, you can do exactly that: put a diode inline with the wiring that leaves the bottle (or depending on the wiring, even inside the bottle). The ground can be common between all the...

For example from Bike24. You get the part no. from that page as well. The cost is relatively high 70 EUR + postage and that’s why I decided not to have a spare one. I can always order it, if needed. EDIT: Xeretic already had this in his message. I missed the earlier messages as I was reading...

Yeah, that's it. The bottle even said on the cap "User manual inside". Over here, guys have been using those to store tire tools etc. on their BMW GSes etc. such bikes. I had a similar idea, but never implemented it, before I sold the Beemer. Now I just have KTM EXC and Levo, but all the rides I...

I'm 99,978 % sure that they do not include diodes - in the end, why would they, as the need of diode(s) really depends on the use case. Actually, I probably would have built my custom-battery into one of those bottles, but didn't find any place where someone would be selling just empty bottles...

Thanks (y) I didn't say I'm not an engineer - I'm just not an electrical engineer :cool: There's nothing in this project that Google and a few carefully selected search phrases wouldn't reveal.

Range extenders seem to be a hot topic nowadays and there are already some commercially available options (Levo Range Extender, Levorex, Trailwatts) to select from. However, IMO they are quite expensive. I did not want to pay ~500 EUR for a battery that I need only on those long, full-day rides...

For trailside fix with a tube, just take an old tire and cut a "patch" out of it to carry in a backbag. You can put that patch between the cut and the tube and the tube will not bubble out. The actual tubeless fix kit is for those holes that are too big for the sealant to plug, but which are...

Instead of 20 £ (well, of course you need to carry money, so that you can buy a cup of coffee on a break), one should carry a spare tube. I had one today and I simply put that in and we were off again. I don't leave home without a tubeless patch kit, a spare tube + pump, chain tool + links...

A sharp rock happened.

Also tubeless-ready Spec tires can become quite porous [emoji23]

First ride with 150s done and there is no going back. I had zero hits and didn’t note any strange with the cadence, torque, power or anything. At few places I prepared myself to take a hit, but there was enough clearance and I was able to continue pedaling.

You can see it from my earlier message with photos in it. It’s a close call of ~1-2 mm, but doesn’t touch.

Yep, alu 2018 it is. Cranks tightened to 45 Nm.

Well, I think all of us, who have installed 150s have also read that article.

No wonder the bike felt horrible earlier, if the preload adjuster was wound all the way. Ideal situation is to have it so that there’s basically no preload (in practice there needs to be 0,5-1 turns to lock the spring). - If there is not enough sag with ”zero” preload -> a lighter spring is...

How many turns of preload did you have earlier?