Search results

Thanks Rod. That was really helpful and I think I have fixed it with your suggestions. When I turned the crank backwards a link seemed to click/stick on one point on that problem cog. On very close inspection it seemed as though 2 teeth were very slightly bent inwards and touching the outer link...

Hi Rusty MTB Do you mean the angle of the link ?

Here is the cassette with the wheel off the bike.

Hi Steve Thanks for your reply. Here are a couple of pictures. The chain seems to ride up and not engage the sprocket. It is using an SRAM AXS wireless deraileur.

I have a SRAM 12spd Eagle cassette and it has just started skipping on the 7th cog up from the smallest. The others seem ok. The chain is 50% worn. Does this sound like a worn cog / cassette or is there an adjustment that will help. Thanks to anyone who knows.

Sunday 26 June Just on the remote posibilty that someone found an Endura MT500 jacket today at Cannock Chase. It’s forest green and lost somewhere 1/2way through the Monkey Trail. Thanks G.

Photoshop them for the photo opportunities ….you can’t see them when you’re riding!

To take a positive from a negative I think you have a good bike shop who perhaps have made a mistake, but have put it right and offered some financial recompense as well. The mistay may help them to be more vigilant and I’m sure they will be willing to give you any tips on what to check and...

SRAM XG 1275 which has the XD hub. GX chains and started changing them when it gets to 0 .5 wear. I have replaced them all together in the past (cassette, chain, chainring) but this seems a lot better and the cassette is wearing a lot longer. I've also "dipped" the newest one in the paffifin...

I’ve had the AXS for about a year and it’s great. Low to no maintenance but keep an eye on the battery. (On the app).. I did run out on a ride and had to do the rest of the day with a fixed gear. I now carry a spare battery, and controller one as well, but the new one I got lasts for ages so...

Yes that’s what I have on the tab part now…… I have tried another strip under the flat part now but haven’t tried it. I have been looking at alternatives and the only ally one I can find says you have to drill the motor housing…….I may ask if they have done it.

Thanks Tribey I’ll try both those…..it doesn’t seem to take much to pop it off….the Velcro is the h/d 3m stuff which does seem secure. ……..but it does the job of saving the frame.

Thanks Mike That’s good advice. I will try a strap and see if it holds it. Geoff

Has anyone dropped the motor on an e160RS ? I have an aluminium bash guard ( the one someone on this site makes) which bolts into the frame tube at the front and has a strong velcro pad at the back. It keeps popping off at the back when it clips a log or something. I was thinking of drilling a...

Hi Mike Yes what you say is true but it is explained quite well in the whole article here. I think if your brakes work you are fine but the OP was asking about upgrading. https://ebike-mtb.com/en/best-e-mtb-disc-brake/

The MT 7's are in another league again. Similar to the MT5's in the speed reduction test (my speed level!) but massive difference between the Code R's in the 45km/h - 0 test. CODE R 45km/h - 0 = 11.9sec MT 7 45km/h - 0 = 5.2sec In ideal conditions... a straight stop.... and no...

I had SRAM Code R’s on my Whyte e160rs for a year and tried everything they always seemed spongy and unresponsive. I thought it was me but my previous 1st eBike was a basic Cube hardtail with entry level single pot Shimano brakes. They felt better than the Code R’s. Last year I put on...

Thanks Mine seem really tight. I’ll try with some sort of soft clamp. Good tip on the Hope replacements.

Has anyone changed front wheel bearings on an e160rs. How do you get the caps pff the hub? Thanks

Tyres? Pressure? Rider weight?