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Not all emtbs have that form of routing from swing arm to motor. On my bikes ( Whyte) the brake cable is fixed to the underside of the chainstay ( ie external). I had previously a gen2 Levo and on that, the brake cable can ( and does) wear away the frame at the exit hole but it is easilly...

It is well known that the motor can be activated by crank rotation which is why the recommendation has always been to remove the battery before doing any drivetrain maintenance. ( albeit it has never happened to me with Bosch motors). As far the rest of the progressive recovery from refusing...

What changes when you go up the Levo range is the performance of brakes, suspension and drivetrain typically. Nothing there to do with the weight of the bike. I suggest not messing with the bike but rather riding it more and learning how to handle it. The extra weight means you need to be a bit...

standard thread.........11nm

As far as I can see Brose etc specify the same 25-30nm. Interesting that the torque for the lockring that attaches the chainring to the crank on a standard ( non E) bike is 40nm. I wonder if that is where the confusion is.

I did a quick online search both of suppliers and various "ebike" companies who tend to provide more guidance alongside products. There was a bsolutely no sign of any change to the original torque settings. As far as I know Bosch do not manufacture fasteners but outsource that to the relevant...

To be honest that whole area looks a mess to me. The welded joint is only a "bulge" at the bottom of the tube section with no proper weld visible..........meaning it has likely been machined down.........and yes, that weakens a joint. Otherwise a proper weld is not the weak point. The weak point...

the bash guard on the Whyte is pretty substancial because it has a metal bar running along the centre line. Not sure if it steel or ally but it would need to be a hard hit to deform it. Having said that, I agree it is not a "fix" I would do.........it smacks of dealing with the symptom rather...

If I had the problem ( with the Canyon) I would look at ways to make the slot in the ally a little smaller, with a material that does not wear, in such a way that the Bosch clamp requires a little more force to close and lock. I dont think the spare tube stuffed in there would make any difference.

mmmm........I doubt it, its really not a very technical piece of kit! It is designed to work with the Bosch Rail but if you dont want to use that ( maybe to save weight) make your own equivalent.........................is more likely their approach:)

Hi Rob, I have had the E160RSX for over a year and no problems with the Bosch battery latch or cutting off issues. All I know is that I saw a post on the Facebook "Whyte Ebike Riders" group page referring to........from what I gather........the MX model in the range and a mod that Whyte have...

Thats one heck of a premium price solution compared to repairing or replacing the derailleur ( you can replace the rear of the cage) ...........in exchange only for learning to back off a little when changing gear!! I have the original AXS and found that you do not really need to back off hardly...

My first EMTB was a Levo..............both my current EMTBs are Whyte. Both are ( in my opinion) outstanding bikes to ride and both have been very reliable ( 1 bike 1 year old the other 3 years old). Back in 2018/2019 when I bought a Levo Comp, it was a stand out EMTB in terms of both their...

There is the joining of 2 sections at the point and that is a crack suggesting that joint is beginning to fail.

Yep Whyte have a mod like that but I think it is for specific models, from what I have seen the MX?.............mine is the E160RSX and I have no issues with the latch or power cut offs

I doubt Bosch will be interested because whilst the latch is theirs, it is not being used as designed...ie in conjunction with the Bosch rail. That does raise a question in my head however. The closed/lock position of the latch is dependant on the metal spur achieveing a specific leverage/pivot...

er...Kiox:p Did you line up the white marks on both male and female connections? The click comes from the detent in the connector and it not only confirms the cable has been fully connected, it also stops the connector easilly becoming disconnected. No click and it not connected!!

10mm will make a significant difference.

I think that issue, based on previous threads, is bike brand specific (Trek) rather than a Bosch issue. Walk mode works fine on my bike with the Bosch Smart System.

..........I agree. Changing/reducing stem length reduces reach but does not raise the upper body which is what it sounds like you want to achieve. I would not worry too much a bout sweep...........just go for higher rise............I would suggest going straight to 40mm rise. If that proves a...