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Ok thanks. I put the 220 on the rear since it’s cheaper and maybe will brake stronger

Hey all, On the front I’m leaning towards a 2 part 200mm and on the rear I have a choice between either a 2 part 200mm rotor or a 1 piece 220. My main concern is cooling since I tend to use the brakes too much, causing glazing and squealing Which would stay cool better? A 200 2 piece or a...

I like it, but I’m no expert. It rides really well. I switched the bottom bracket back to the high position and prefer that. I’m still messing with the suspension. I swapped from 3 to 1 volume spacer on the fork if I recall correctly, and am still playing around with the clickers. I got the...

Thanks for the info. I think my build date was 2022 if I recall correctly, but I could check again. My Specialized box said 2022/2023

Actually I found I had taken a pic of it. Apparently it’s a 2021/2022! Odd that it looks more like the older forks

I’ll have to do that once I’m back home. I’m traveling right now

So my 2022/2023 Levo Comp Carbon came with a Fox 36 Rhythm fork. I’m selling it, and someone mentioned it’s a pre-2020 fork. Is that true? Did my bike come with an older fork?

I wrapped my matte frame (comp carbon) with the matte invisiframe. I would recommend matching gloss frame to gloss wrap or matte frame to matte wrap.

I’m not going to dignify this with a response. Communicate more clearly if you want specific info. This thread is getting a little too rude for me. Good luck with your suspension folks

Multiple Sram manuals have the procedure listed as step 1, add two turns, then go up to 5, no more. Also it’s even printed on the preload collar.

Good luck! Seems like a good plan. My only suggestion would be to think about all aspects of bike performance, not just the number of turns. Like full use of travel, balance, turning, etc. I use sag as a starting point but usually play with it to change the feel. On a dirt bike sometimes I’ll...

Yeah that’s what I’m basing my starting point of two from

I’m not saying more preload is good. But I would personally not feel comfortable disregarding the rockshox minimum of two rotations of preload. Now if we apply the Ohlins rule of max two, we’ve combined to create a rule called “don’t adjust preload” which I find makes no sense. A little preload...

I’m not going to respond piece by piece to this but for anyone reading his replies, there are some factual errors in here, so I recommend fact checking before regurgitating this info.

+1 to the cascade link. It makes sense to me as it makes the linkage more progressive. The original linkage was designed for an air shock, which has more natural progression so needs less from the linkage.

You should believe the guy who says sag is important

I actually don’t think he has a very good take on preload/spring rate/sag. It’s almost like he’s recommending to pick whatever spring lets you run almost no preload. First problem with this is he’s suggesting to run less than what the rockshox manual specifies. I wouldn’t really advise...

I set mine to 3 turns and was at 20%, 2 turns between 20-25%, but that was 3 turns off the bike. I think I probably should have set the turns with the shock on the bike. So I’m probably running too much preload, and probably do have the right spring. I’m pretty happy with the TFTuned calculator

The tftuned calculator gave me a spring rate of 328 (yes I’m light) using the 28% sag setting. I did 350 since that’s as low as I saw from MRP. It works fine for me. I’m currently running maybe 25% or a tiny bit less. I might increase the sag but it still feels fine as is

Rebounds feels fine to me and I could make it faster if I felt like it. I’m not fast though. Are you getting the RS? Just try it stock if you’re getting it and see if it’s good