GX eagle transmission AXS problem getting into gear 10

Polar · Jan 31, 2025

I suddenly got this strange problem when going from 9-10 gear it don't engage and when I go to 11 it make a crunch when going past 10 into 11.
There is no problem going from small to bigger cogs or in any other gears just from 9-10 gear.

lar1337 · Feb 1, 2025

T-type or standard axs?

Polar · Feb 1, 2025

lar1337 said:
T-type or standard axs?

T-Type

lar1337 · Feb 1, 2025

Can't blame the hanger then.....maybe take it off and clean then reinstall?

Polar · Feb 1, 2025

lar1337 said:
Can't blame the hanger then.....maybe take it off and clean then reinstall?

It is clean, actually very clean since I clean it after every ride.

lar1337 · Feb 1, 2025

Just an off and re-install then

Give all the bolts a good check on torque

Ou812 · Feb 1, 2025

I’d go back through the installation set-up, the only time I’ve had shifting issues was when the mount bolt loosened up ever so slightly.

You could try to adjust it with micro shift to see if that makes a difference. The one other thing I’d check is the teeth on that cog, I’ve seen a broken tooth cause the same issue.

Polar · Feb 1, 2025

The mount bolt is tight enough and I have done 4.000 km since installation and there is no damage to the teeth or chain I have also tried to adjust the micro shift which goes from 1 to 14 and mine was sett at 11 when installed so I have tried to go up/down a few numbers but not a lot but I thought the MS would impact all gears so if you have problem with one gear it won't help since it got a different purpose.
Reckon I leave it at LBS next week so they can fix it in 5 minutes.

Polar · Feb 3, 2025

LBS checked the whole drivtrain but couldn't find anything wrong then they loosened the mount bolt and reattached it and then everything worked as it should.
Took 10 minutes and cost nothing.

irie · Feb 3, 2025

Polar said:
LBS checked the whole drivtrain but couldn't find anything wrong then they loosened the mount bolt and reattached it and then everything worked as it should.
Took 10 minutes and cost nothing.

Couple of years ago wife's Trek Rail front wheel absolutely refused to stay inflated when riding. Couldn't figure it out. Took tyre off, checked the rim for dents, changed the valve, checked rim tape, put on a spare tyre, but still wouldn't stay inflated.

Took tyre off again then out of frustration ran a finger around inside of rim on both sides and suddenly felt a very small bump ... which turned out to be a tiny sliver of stone driven into the inside of the rim. Pinged it off then all good, sealant sealed it.

RickBullotta · Feb 3, 2025

Most likely the derailleur is out of rotational alignment. Put the Loosen the main derailleur pivot bolt, pull the cage all the way back, set to the correct cassette cog for alignment, pull back again, torque to spec. Basically just follow the setup instructions again. I've seen this happen often when folks remove their rear wheel or when the derailleur took a big hit.

Ou812 · Feb 3, 2025

Polar said:
LBS checked the whole drivtrain but couldn't find anything wrong then they loosened the mount bolt and reattached it and then everything worked as it should.
Took 10 minutes and cost nothing.

That’s kind of what I figured it would be, SRAM recently changed the torque on the mount bolt. The bolt still says 25NM but it’s now 35NM, depending on when or who set the bike up it might have only been torqued to 25NM.

Polar · Feb 3, 2025

They looked at the online m

Ou812 said:
That’s kind of what I figured it would be, SRAM recently changed the torque on the mount bolt. The bolt still says 25NM but it’s now 35NM, depending on when or who set the bike up it might have only been torqued to 25NM.

It was set up 10 month and 4.000 km ago so probably time to check the torque.

RickBullotta · Feb 4, 2025

Ou812 said:
That’s kind of what I figured it would be, SRAM recently changed the torque on the mount bolt. The bolt still says 25NM but it’s now 35NM, depending on when or who set the bike up it might have only been torqued to 25NM.

Be alert that if you ever remove the rear wheel, it is STRONGLY advised to go through the alignment/torque procedure again.

whitymon · Feb 4, 2025

RickBullotta said:
Be alert that if you ever remove the rear wheel, it is STRONGLY advised to go through the alignment/torque procedure again.

Just no.

The derailleur does not need to go through any procedure again at all, being torque 35mm and already aligned there is no need. Never done that, never seen anyone doing it.

Some reason to do it:
- crash/hit
- poor installation
- wear / lack of chain tension
- issue with shifting - still you could do microshift from app as sometimes it is required (tolerance etc)
...

RickBullotta · Feb 15, 2025

whitymon said:
Just no.

The derailleur does not need to go through any procedure again at all, being torque 35mm and already aligned there is no need. Never done that, never seen anyone doing it.

Some reason to do it:
- crash/hit
- poor installation
- wear / lack of chain tension
- issue with shifting - still you could do microshift from app as sometimes it is required (tolerance etc)
...

Just, yes. Totally depends on how the UDH is mounted on your frame.

cykelk · Feb 15, 2025

RickBullotta said:
Just, yes. Totally depends on how the UDH is mounted on your frame.

There is no UDH with T-Type...that's the point. Do you mean how the derailleur is mounted? I've never had to do more than make sure my rotation notches are aligned when removing / reinstalling the rear wheel.

Stihldog · Feb 15, 2025

This may not apply in the OP’s situation but my new Fuel EXE AXS T-type started doing this in 3(?) of the gears. Myself and 4 other employees at the LBS stood around my bike as we all threw out suggestions.

It was a sales rep that noticed the axle bushing was incorrectly installed. Problem solved!

It looked normal but caused shifting problems. We all figured that it may have been incorrectly during the assembly process. We also all learned the alignment and tuning procedures for the T-type cassette and derailer.

Mikerb · Feb 15, 2025

With Type AXS there is a requirement to do something a little differently when you remove/replace the rear wheel............and it may be the reason for some of the problems experienced a bove. So when removing the wheel you lock the mech forward as normal. When replacing the wheel you insert the thru axle and snug it up...but not to full recommended torque until you release the mech back to its normal position...then tighten the thru axle to the recommended torque.

Astro66 · Feb 16, 2025

Mikerb said:
With Type AXS there is a requirement to do something a little differently when you remove/replace the rear wheel............and it may be the reason for some of the problems experienced a bove. So when removing the wheel you lock the mech forward as normal. When replacing the wheel you insert the thru axle and snug it up...but not to full recommended torque until you release the mech back to its normal position...then tighten the thru axle to the recommended torque.

Amflow have a video on how to replace the rear wheel. As long as you don't touch the derailleur frame mount fitting. You just put the wheel back on and re-torque re-torque the through axle.

They actually recommend unlocking the cage after torquing the thru-axle.

Video is called, "Adjusting Rear Wheel Size". It shows the removal and re-installation of the rear wheel on an XO SRAM Eagle Transmission.

Amflow PL - Product Videos - Amflow (United Kingdom)

Watch product videos for the superlight full-power electric mountain bike Amflow PL. This model is equipped with the DJI Avinox Drive System, delivering a robust 105 N·m of torque, along with a versatile frame design, a high-capacity 800Wh battery, GaN 3x fast charging, intelligent walk assist...

www.amflowbikes.com

whitymon said:
The derailleur does not need to go through any procedure again at all, being torque 35mm and already aligned there is no need. Never done that, never seen anyone doing it.

Some reason to do it:
- crash/hit
- poor installation
- wear / lack of chain tension
- issue with shifting - still you could do microshift from app as sometimes it is required (tolerance etc)

I agree. This is the only time you would go through the entire alignment procedure.

Mikerb · Feb 16, 2025

I was not referring to initial mech set up or the need to repeat the process due to changing the rear wheel to a different size. I referred to the process for merely removing the rear wheel for cleaning/maintenance etc and then replacing that same wheel. Leaving the final torqueing of the thru axle until after you have returned the mech to its normal position avoids the risk of misalignment of the mech.

RickBullotta · Feb 16, 2025

cykelk said:
There is no UDH with T-Type...that's the point. Do you mean how the derailleur is mounted? I've never had to do more than make sure my rotation notches are aligned when removing / reinstalling the rear wheel.

That's my point - it's designed to replace the UDH (which had a very specific shape that aligned with the frame precisely) versus the design of the transmission which allows for more movement. On some bikes, removing the axle to remove the rear wheel f*cks with that alignment. At least it absolutely, positively has been that way on the two bikes I've had it on (and have since removed it from one).

RickBullotta · Feb 16, 2025

Astro66 said:
Amflow have a video on how to replace the rear wheel. As long as you don't touch the derailleur frame mount fitting. You just put the wheel back on and re-torque re-torque the through axle.

They actually recommend unlocking the cage after torquing the thru-axle.

Video is called, "Adjusting Rear Wheel Size". It shows the removal and re-installation of the rear wheel on an XO SRAM Eagle Transmission.

Amflow PL - Product Videos - Amflow (United Kingdom)

Watch product videos for the superlight full-power electric mountain bike Amflow PL. This model is equipped with the DJI Avinox Drive System, delivering a robust 105 N·m of torque, along with a versatile frame design, a high-capacity 800Wh battery, GaN 3x fast charging, intelligent walk assist...

www.amflowbikes.com

I agree. This is the only time you would go through the entire alignment procedure.

You still need to re-torque, and that's what I suggested quite a few posts ago. Of course, some disagree, but they are likely wrong. It should be re-torqued. At least it should on all of the bikes with Transmission that I've seen.

Stihldog · Feb 16, 2025

Our bikes are not a one-time use like a V-8 dragster engine or a rocket ship. But there’s still some critical components that need proper torque techniques. Different materials, different lubricants, different procedures etc, can all have an effect on torque.

I still need to explain to my nephew the importance of this as best as I can. But that’s the benefit of this forum. Others have different experiences or knowledge in this area …saves me from reading through the thousands of books and charts for this seemingly simple procedure. Some suggestions make sense …and some don’t apply.

I rely on common sense, but even that needs refilling or replacing sometimes.

Mikerb · Feb 16, 2025

On T Type AXS there are 2 lines marked on the mech at 10 o clock (where it bolts to the frame) that should be aligned......they confirm the mech is correctly aligned. Note, there is no variation in process from bike to bike. It is SRAM that specifies the processes.

cykelk · Feb 16, 2025

RickBullotta said:
You still need to re-torque, and that's what I suggested quite a few posts ago. Of course, some disagree, but they are likely wrong. It should be re-torqued. At least it should on all of the bikes with Transmission that I've seen.

Clearly in this case the loosen / retorque procedure worked and at the end of the day is an easy diagnostic step if having issues. I simply don't see why it'd be necessary to do proactively for every wheel swap and I haven't seen anywhere SRAM recommends this. I have thousands of miles on T-Type now across two bikes, with countless wheel removals and even two hanger cage replacements. Only time I've touched the derailleur mount bolt was during occasional routine torque checks, but maybe I've been lucky.

GX eagle transmission AXS problem getting into gear 10

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

Well-known member

Well-known member

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

Active member

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

Well-known member

Handheld Power Tool

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

Golden Boy

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

Handheld Power Tool

E*POWAH Elite World Champion

Well-known member

Similar threads

EMTB Forums