Unanswered Tubeless setup leaking from wheel/spoke.

[asmar]

Hi all,

I've got lots of air coming out from the wheel and from one spoke on a new bike/tubeless setup.
Adding more sealant doesn't stop the leak. I guess the problem comes to the rim tape.
Is it going to work if I just put patches of rim tape to the problematic areas?

Thanks

 

[GOSBTS]

Gorilla tape.

 

[Funkeydunk]

I agree with GOSBTS, redo the tape don’t patch.

 

[steve_sordy]

Also agree here. It won't take long to strip the existing tape from the rim. Wipe over with iso-propyl alcohol, meths, or anything to remove any crap and remnants of old sealant. Gorilla tape was recommended to me by the Sherwood Pines bike shop, they use it all the time, and now so do I. It is cheap, durable and easy to apply. I use the 25mm wide stuff in the woven black finish because it looks like carbon fibre! OK, no-one else can see it but I know it's there!
Two layers and it has worked every single time for me. However, some users say that it can be difficult to remove, if indeed you ever need to remove it. Apparently the adhesive can be a bit clingy. I've never had to do it, but I'm sure that an appropriate solvent will do the job.

 

[asmar]

Thanks a lot for the replies.
I manage to stop the leak with extra sealant. It took a lot!
I'll try the gorilla tape next time if happens.

 

[Gary]

when you keeping adding sealant to a rim that's leaking at the spoke eyelets it results in filling the rim cavity with sealant.
I see this a fair bit when trueing/re-building folks wheels.
some sealants dry out and ball up and if this happens you're going to have it rattling around the inner cavity of the rim and it may be difficult to remove in future.
If you're happy with that carry on but personally I'd remove your tape and clean out the sealant from inside the rim ASAP and replace the entire rimtape
When fitting new tape always clean the rim up properly (Detergent then Isopropyl/brake cleaner) and re-tape with decent waterproof tubeless tape.

Gorilla tape does work but isn't even air tight so relys on the sealant to seal it fully
It also leaves a horrible to remove resedue which can take hours to remove from many rims.
I reckon most folk who recommend it rarely ever have had to remove the stuff and only use it because it's cheap. Proper tubeless rim tape isn't exactly expensive.

 

[asmar]

Hi Gary, thanks for the detailed post.
Initially, I put just 70ml of sealant so I guess that was very little. I've added a total of 120 ml and went for a 30km ride and had no issues.

I will keep an eye on it, however!

Thanks

 

[Gary]

FYI I tend to use 100-120ml in a 27.5x2.5 tyre.
Your rim cavity will still have some sealant in it.
New tubeless set ups which leak slowly. often seal better during their first few rides as the sealant is thrown around inside the tyre.
Sealant does need topping up a little or changed every so often (3-6months for topping up). This will also be dependant on punctures it's fixed and how much the bike is ridden.

 

[RickBullotta]

Good quality tubeless tape (of the correct width) on a properly cleaned and prepared (and tubeless ready) rim needs only one layer of tape.

 

[Giff]

Which dedicated rim tase does anyone recommend then ? I have used Gorilla tape and it has worked perfectly and when changing tyres ( after about 5 months because of damage) there wasn't much residue.
When I tried Stan's tape, yellow stuff and a bit wider. it seemed very inflexible and didn't seal or stick to the properly cleaned rim.

 

[RickBullotta]

It is far more important that the tape adheres to the "shoulders" of the rim channel rather than the center of the rim channel. Clean and try the rim with isopropyl alcohol. Stan's tape works fine *if* it's the correct width. It should fit nearly *exactly* between the two rim walls. DT Swiss makes good tape, though my favorite is Whisky's tubeless tape. After installing the tape, use your finger to press firmly as you move around the rim shoulders so that this part seals well.

 

[I want my 2 Dollars!]

The couple times I've taped rims, I've seated the tape by inserting the tubes before adding sealant. Mount the tire and tube, pump to the max pressure and let sit a day or 2. Then remove the tube and add sealant.

 

[Giff]

Doesn’t that disturb the tape when removing the tube and putting the tubeless valve in?

 

[I want my 2 Dollars!]

Doesn’t that disturb the tape when removing the tube and putting the tubeless valve in?

I use a hot nail to Pierce the tape for the valve. On the 4 wheels I've done the tube valve didn't disturb the tape. This isn't my idea. It was suggested on a couple utube videos watched in preparation. The tape is doubled by 10 inches or so - over the valve hole

 

[GrahamPaul]

Sealant does need topping up a little or changed every so often (3-6months for topping up). This will also be dependant on punctures it's fixed and how much the bike is ridden.

And how much sunshine you've had. (Not something that worries you too much, I guess )

 

[galaga187]

I’m having trouble with tubeless setup. The rim tape looks damaged so will replace but the valve hole is also scored. Any ideas please? Looks like it’s been over tightened, probably me.

 

[GrahamPaul]

I’m having trouble with tubeless setup. The rim tape looks damaged so will replace but the valve hole is also scored. Any ideas please? Looks like it’s been over tightened, probably me.

Damage to the outside of the rim won't affect your tubeless seal, which is formed by the rubber end base of the valve plugging the hole on the inside of the rim.

Make sure you very thoroughly clean the rim after removing the old tape before you add your new tape.

If the valve leaks at the hole, try a couple of turns of plumbers PTFE tape around the base of the valve (inside the rim) to help it sit in the hole.

Good luck!

 

[steve_sordy]

If you have scoring, file or sand it smooth. Previous advice is sound.

 

[RickBullotta]

Unless you have crappy sealant, the valve hole should seal itself up. You could also consider tubeless valve stems that include a small o-ring under the locknut.

 

[galaga187]

Unless you have crappy sealant, the valve hole should seal itself up. You could also consider tubeless valve stems that include a small o-ring under the locknut.

Thanks I’m going to go back to Stans I had tried Finish Line. Same result with cushcore and milkit valves which have the o rings.

 

[RickBullotta]

Thanks I’m going to go back to Stans I had tried Finish Line. Same result with cushcore and milkit valves which have the o rings.

Another option, which is a bit messy sometimes but works well, is adding a bit of glitter inside the tire before adding sealant. It helps boost the "clumping effect" slightly.

 

[Fingerpuk]

Mine leaked from the spoke holes for a bit, only when I pumped it up kinda high. It settled down quick enough. Next time I do it I’ll re do the tape and not use the pre-installed tape.

I used Stans and had to use more that the 125ml. The tyre was riddled with holes though, was like a tea bag.

 

[RickBullotta]

Thanks I’m going to go back to Stans I had tried Finish Line. Same result with cushcore and milkit valves which have the o rings.

One SUPER important step when doing a tubeless setup that many people forget to do is called the "Stan's Shake". Watch after the 2:55 mark.

 

[Fingerpuk]

The Stans Shake knackered me out. I’m paranoid about things like this so did it for ages before realising I could just go for a ride.

 

[GrahamPaul]

The tyre was riddled with holes though, was like a tea bag.

That's why our LBS told my mate his tyres weren't tubeless ready (they were) and his rims weren't suitable (they're tubeless ready rims). They knew damned well that a well used tyre would make one hell of a mess of their workshop

(I didn't offer to do it for him either. I know how many times he's repaired punctures in that sieve of his which pretends to be a tyre).